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copb8

Need Replacement Brake Master Cylinder & Booster

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My brake pedal got soft and then went to the floor in a very short period of time. I was fortunate to get it home and down my steep driveway without going through the front door.

There is no fluid under the car so I assume the Master Cylinder is toast, and more than likely the booster as well. I'd like to buy something that's as close to stock as possible but is decent quality. It seems the Scott Drake stuff have really taken a beating in quality over the last few years. My car has stock power disk brakes up front, and drums in the rear.

 

Can someone assist me in finding the specific parts I need?


Thanks in advance.

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On 5/15/2024 at 1:41 PM, copb8 said:

My brake pedal got soft and then went to the floor in a very short period of time. I was fortunate to get it home and down my steep driveway without going through the front door.

There is no fluid under the car so I assume the Master Cylinder is toast, and more than likely the booster as well. I'd like to buy something that's as close to stock as possible but is decent quality. It seems the Scott Drake stuff have really taken a beating in quality over the last few years. My car has stock power disk brakes up front, and drums in the rear.

Can someone assist me in finding the specific parts I need?


Thanks in advance.

I know its a lot easier to just buy what you want than to rebuild, but with aftermarket parts what they are these days, personally I would try to rebuild the original MC, rather than buy another. There are lots of kits available from NPD:  https://www.npdlink.com/1965-1973-mustang/brake-wheel/master-cylinder/master-cylinder-new-rebuilt, but not knowing any specifics about your car, you need to call them. I would never buy a new Power Brake Booster, preferring to get the original rebuilt, as the aftermarket stuff just doesn't fit or work properly. Watch these videos from WCCC on boosters; I think it will open your eyes: 

 

 

There are several places that do booster rebuilding: 

boosterdeweyexchange.com (recommended by WCCC)

mwreman.com, Midwest Remanufacturing (recommended by renowned brake and steering specialist Chockostang)

Karps Power Brake Service (recommended by GT289- ex Global West GM)

Harmon Classic Brakes, has a descent website

I hope this at least gives you a different perspective.

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4 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

I know its a lot easier to just buy what you want than to rebuild, but with aftermarket parts what they are these days, personally I would try to rebuild the original MC, rather than buy another. There are lots of kits available from NPD:  https://www.npdlink.com/1965-1973-mustang/brake-wheel/master-cylinder/master-cylinder-new-rebuilt, but not knowing any specifics about your car, you need to call them. I would never buy a new Power Brake Booster, preferring to get the original rebuilt, as the aftermarket stuff just doesn't fit or work properly. Watch these videos from WCCC on boosters; I think it will open your eyes: 

 

 

There are several places that do booster rebuilding: 

boosterdeweyexchange.com (recommended by WCCC)

mwreman.com, Midwest Remanufacturing (recommended by renowned brake and steering specialist Chockostang)

Karps Power Brake Service (recommended by GT289- ex Global West GM)

Harmon Classic Brakes, has a descent website

I hope this at least gives you a different perspective.

Wow, that was Soooo informative. Definitely going to go this route instead. Thank you very much.

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I think thats the best route, aftermarket boosters don't last a year before failing again. Find a local rebuilder in Texas, you can usually ship them if they are faraway. 

I use these guys as they are local to me, but plenty of ppl ship it to them for rebuilds. 

Definitely worth the wait if you can't find a builder near you. 

Power Brake Exchange,

2870 Aiello Dr, San Jose Ca 95111

phone number 1 408 292 1305

https://pwrbrake.com/

 

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7 hours ago, copb8 said:

Wow, that was Soooo informative. Definitely going to go this route instead. Thank you very much.

Well, turns out both units that fit my car seem to be on the 'out of stock' and no know future availability. I've left them a message, so we'll see if there is any alternatives.

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Mach 1, you may be right, I thought he was talking about the brake booster - which I highly recommend sending it in for a rebuild and not replacing. however, I've seen some rebuilders do both MC and booster so that still could be a thing. 

in regards to the MC, its probably cheaper to get a replacement online, like summitracing, napa, oreilly auto and getting shipped if none are local, he just needs to know his bore size and swap over the pushrod before he tosses the old MC. 

I do recall some stores use to sell rebuild kits for MCs back in the day, but I think its just cheaper to replace now. My other suggestion is for op try http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/ and see what he recommends he knows his OE brake/steering stuff. 

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On 5/17/2024 at 4:07 PM, copb8 said:

Well, turns out both units that fit my car seem to be on the 'out of stock' and no know future availability. I've left them a message, so we'll see if there is any alternatives.

I don't know what you need specifically, but I just happened to notice today that for my car both of these kits to rebuild the master cylinder are available from NPD: 2004-4 and 2004-2a 

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I was actually talking about both. I believe the MC failed and pumped a bunch of fluid into the booster.

 

This weekend I pulled them both out and reached out to the rebuilder mentioned above. Now waiting on their response.

 

Can I also mention what a miserable job it is getting my big old body under that dash to get that booster out. Ouch! Definitely pulling the driver's seat out before putting it back in.

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16 hours ago, copb8 said:

I was actually talking about both. I believe the MC failed and pumped a bunch of fluid into the booster.

 

This weekend I pulled them both out and reached out to the rebuilder mentioned above. Now waiting on their response.

 

Can I also mention what a miserable job it is getting my big old body under that dash to get that booster out. Ouch! Definitely pulling the driver's seat out before putting it back in.

also try these guys, they are in California,  they rebuild boosters, I had mine rebuilt by them since they were local to me. they also can powder coat it for you. they have locations in NV and Ca.
 

https://powerbrakeexchange.myshopify.com/

2870 Aiello Dr, San Jose, CA 95111

San Jose, CA 9511, 408 292 1305

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On 5/29/2024 at 12:11 PM, rwcstang said:

also try these guys, they are in California,  they rebuild boosters, I had mine rebuilt by them since they were local to me. they also can powder coat it for you. they have locations in NV and Ca.
 

https://powerbrakeexchange.myshopify.com/

2870 Aiello Dr, San Jose, CA 95111

San Jose, CA 9511, 408 292 1305

I went with these guys. Very responsive on the phone and the service. They turned it around within a week and it came back very professionally finished and packaged. I haven't installed it yet, but I'm confident that it will work as advertised.


Thanks for all the great suggestions and advise.

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On 5/17/2024 at 1:16 AM, Mach1 Driver said:

I know its a lot easier to just buy what you want than to rebuild, but with aftermarket parts what they are these days, personally I would try to rebuild the original MC, rather than buy another. There are lots of kits available from NPD:  https://www.npdlink.com/1965-1973-mustang/brake-wheel/master-cylinder/master-cylinder-new-rebuilt, but not knowing any specifics about your car, you need to call them. I would never buy a new Power Brake Booster, preferring to get the original rebuilt, as the aftermarket stuff just doesn't fit or work properly. Watch these videos from WCCC on boosters; I think it will open your eyes: 

 

 

There are several places that do booster rebuilding: 

boosterdeweyexchange.com (recommended by WCCC)

mwreman.com, Midwest Remanufacturing (recommended by renowned brake and steering specialist Chockostang)

Karps Power Brake Service (recommended by GT289- ex Global West GM)

Harmon Classic Brakes, has a descent website

I hope this at least gives you a different perspective.

Mach1 Driver, good response and info! My Bendix 2227154 master cylinder's bore had leaked past the piston into my booster. Master cylinder had some pitting so didn't feel it would hold another rebuild kit. Sent it for a re-sleeve along with my Bendix 6945 booster for rebuild to Karps. Then installed an NPD master cylinder rebuild kit, and NPD kit for it's proportioning valve, and rear wheel cylinder kits. So far, is holding up well!

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19 hours ago, Flanders said:

reviving this thread a bit --

is there such a thing as a smaller booster?  With my intake and valve covers, I feel I don't have a lot of room for a big booster.  

Probably the most common complaint. Personally I wouldn't mess with what I consider the most important system on the car. You could go with manual brakes, but I would stick with the combination of parts that Henry's engineers selected. I have low expectations for aftermarket parts.

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On 11/9/2024 at 7:54 AM, RPM said:

@Rsanter uses a B9 spec  smaller diameter booster, but I can't recall from where he bought it.

On my 69 I used a booster from Tuff Stuff. It’s a non concourse version of the boss429 booster used.

direct bolt on and has the same feel as the original booster.

 

i did this because I wanted to use a willwood MC and they were too long to use with the stock booster

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On 11/8/2024 at 8:54 AM, Flanders said:

reviving this thread a bit --

is there such a thing as a smaller booster?  With my intake and valve covers, I feel I don't have a lot of room for a big booster.  

Which valve covers are you using? I have aftermarket ones and they're significantly larger than stock but do not interfere with the stock booster and MC. It did take some wiggling to get the VC's on after I installed the MC, but the clearance is fine now.

I wouldn't imagine the intake manifold would come into play at all.

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