Scott Drake repro drag links for 1970 quality?

[smh00n 92]

Folks

Trying to figure out my bump steer issue I thought I would try a new drag link.

The one I have needs washers behind the nut of the 2 inner tie rod ends to snug up the taper on the joint, so something isn't right. It was a repro which was NOS and in a bag with an orange and yellow logo, but I don't remember much more than that.

I see Scott Drake now have repro's and whilst I'd prefer an OEM Ford one, these might be the answer.

Has any one used one or know of the quality? For me, its a $400 cost to buy one so I need to know if they are decent as it's a lot of cash if they are the same as what I have.

Part number is D0ZZ-3304-CI (suffix is A for OEM)

[Midlife 840]

I'd recommend staying away from anything Scott Drake, as they now have a reputation of putting their name on the cheapest part available. 

[smh00n 92]

Yeah, I don't know why I am considering them.

I have their repro B302 oil pan that leaks something fierce from the rear main. Doesn't even come close to the correct radius.

Second Felpro one piece gasket just ordered and a gallon of RTV :(

[Rsanter 158]

Is this power or manual drag link?

im fairly sure I have a couple good used power steering ones

[smh00n 92]

Sorry, it's a manual steer one.

I need it for a Borgeson conversion which is giving me static

 

[Rsanter 158]

I used the adapter from OEM on mine

$100 and all I had to do was remove my control valve and thread the adapter on

mine has been there since 2014 with no issues

[smh00n 92]

$400+ down here.

Plus I have new roller idler and a pitman arm, so I don't really want to go back to that old stuff.

[RPM 1,272]

I've not heard of the center link causing bump steer issues, nor of anyone modifying it or changing it. 

IMO bump steer on our cars is caused mainly after we lower them, and do the Shelby/Arning upper control arm drop. When you draw a line thru the static location of the control arms and steering arm, they should meet in order to keep the angles correct, and not cause for in or toe out. 

 

Many people use a bump steer kit which allows you to move the steering arm connection at the spindle arm, which will reduce bump steer greatly. 

[smh00n 92]

@RPM I am grabbing false hopes I realise. And I am letting the interwebs know it :(

The steering tie rods are on a different angle to the lower control arms on both sides, and I suspect that's my issue. They are facing up from the inner joint and that's my problem.

Here Down Under, our road authorities will not allow any changes to suspension or steering especially with welding, and rod ends are also out. Remember, these decision-makers know better than us and are only saving our sorry asses. Makes me feel better when I see that tax money go out each week. Not.

But, I have other issues, being the repop drag link I bought has the taper too large to fit the tie rods into. They bottom out before they tighten, and I have had to put washers under the nuts to tighten them. So, the drag link need is more to fix that than the bump steer and appease my OCD. And since I had to pull it all to drop the sump to fix the leak (thanks Scott Drake) I thought I'd replace it.