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Machspeed

Lower Door Repair And Related

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Hey friends, I've got to do a rust repair job on my driver's side door and either need to fabricate a patch or weld in a good piece. See picture below. From what I can tell, nobody stamps this piece out. If they do, I sure can't find it. Before I go seriously taxing my limited metal work skills, wondering if any of you have a scrap door that this piece can be cut out of? 

Along similar lines, after the door is repaired, and without cutting it open, how can I best treat the door to limit future issues like this?

Lastly, pictured is the inside of one of my doors. It has a coating on the door skin that is about an 1/16" that is flaking off and exposing the underlying metal in some areas. In some areas it's cracked. I thought it might scrap right out but it does not. It's a very hard substance and I'm certain it was put on when the car was built. I see this as potential for some serious rust problems in the future if I do not address it. Thoughts and advise much appreciated.  

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Can't help you with a parts door but flaking coating is rubber/tar they spray at the factory for sound deadening of the big outer skin. They are though, you can try heating if you want to remove all of it. I pick/break the flaking pieces and spray a few coats of rubberized coating from spray can to the bare areas. Rust holes occur at the lowest areas of a part (without a drain path) where dirt and water accumulates, like door and quarter bottoms. I wouldn't consider those as potential for rust areas as they are not at the lowest areas of the door for dirt and water to accumulate.

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You would probably need to make that patch in a few pieces ,the best way is to make paper templates of the rotted area and transfer to sheet metal ,once you get one part of the patch in place the rest will fall into place  

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14 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

You would probably need to make that patch in a few pieces ,the best way is to make paper templates of the rotted area and transfer to sheet metal ,once you get one part of the patch in place the rest will fall into place  

If you use cardboard to make templates, you can then call this CAD: cardboard Aided Design!

I've heard used pizza boxes are best to use...

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2 hours ago, Machspeed said:

If it's not too much trouble, I'd be interested in that piece, Ed. Can you cut it out? How much? PM me if need be. 

Thanks,

John 

Ed's door is wrong side isn't it. Not sure how much that piece would help you

 

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 The doubled-over seams in the bottom and sides of the doors are obviously a concern for rust accumulation. The best solution I’ve seen is by a well known character named Woodchuck on Vintage Mustang Forum. Woodchuck has apparently done this many times, and what he suggests is building a wood tub, line it with a thick plastic tarp, support the door off the bottom, fill it with water, add 1/2 cup of washing soda (NaCO), then run some DC current though it for a couple of days. He uses an old computer power supply, but a battery charger should work just as well. Note: here is a link to Woodchuck's post for more details: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/best-way-to-arrest-rust-inside-doors.1197220/#post-10579417

Of further concern is that paint will not stick to any metal treated with Soda. According to the popular paint company SPI, you must first neutralize soda by the following technique stated on the SPI Technical Data Sheet: Thoroughly wash every square inch of the affected metal with Dawn original formula, Purple Power Degreaser, or Simple Green mixed with water and clean towel. Wash off with clean water then dry.

According to Barry (who owns SPI and is the formulating chemist) on neutralizing soda: “What some of the soda blasters are now doing is washing the car with Holdtight 2, so that neutralizing and changing the PH of the metal, at $150 a gallon you are paying for it but it does save some work.”

Woodchuck then uses Mastercoat Silver primer to seal the area inside the door so oxygen can’t get in and allow more rust. I’m a believer in Mastercoat. This stuff will last 15 years on bridges over salt water. I have used it on some sheet metal light boxes I built that are outside in hot, humid, rainy, cold and snowing Georgia weather year round with no sign of rust.

 

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I prefer using good masking tape, like the green or yellow 3M tape. Take the tape and cover the area where you're wanting to duplicate with a couple of layers in a 90 degree orientation. Cut the tape where you can manage to duplicate the parts (looks like that area will require several small sections), remove the tape from the damaged area and transfer to your new sheet metal, being sticky helps hold it in place. Cut, bend/shape as needed, a little fitting and welding, your door will be good as new. Very simple, very easy :)

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7 hours ago, TexasEd said:

Yeah my door is the passenger side. I missed that part. 

Yeah, that's just about how my luck goes too! Given a 50/50 chance at anything, I might get lucky 2 out of 10 times....arghhhh! Meh....just as well. I need to learn to work these complex type of patch panels. Thanks Ed.

Thanks for the input friends. 

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Similar to the rust in my fastback trunk lid and usual lower door corners. Cut the rust out and made a bath/box to immersed them in a citric acid solution to get rid of any other unseen rust. Followed up with a phosphoric acid dip and hot dry before paint. Will finish up with a rust inhibiter wax soon while the weather Downunder is still hot. 

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