Coil resistor wire Mustang 69

[Ivo 4]

Hello,

I'm upgrading the stock distributor and ignition on my Mustang 69 351w with HEI style. The distributor is from Progression ignition, the new coil is MSD Blaster 3. Changing the spark plug wires as well.

I've read, that on the new ignition styles, the voltage to the coil from the ignition switch must be 12v, not 6v with resistor wire. Before taking anything apart and rewiring, I took out the multimeter and checked what's the voltage on the stock coil. And surprise, 12.3volts. I traced the wire back to the ignition switch, there are no cuts and bypasses from previous owners, I'm really confused. The coil is stock (yellow capped), the distributor is with points.

I'm I missing something or checking the voltage wrong? The positive clip attaches to the positive coil terminal (which wire goes to the dist) and the negative clip I'm attaching to the negative battery terminal.

Thanks, Ivo

[aslanefe 333]

Are you checking the voltage while the engine is running? I think you need to check the other terminal, not the one that goes to points/distributor.

[Midlife 814]

Without the engine running, there's no current flowing through the resistor, so you'll see the full 12V. 

[Ivo 4]

The key is on On positiong, the car is not running. I have to take out the cap of the distributor wire out, because I can't reach the coil terminal otherwise.

[det0326 179]

Resistors is all about load. No load on the resistor wire it will read the full source  voltage, unlike a voltage regulator that will give you a Constance voltage.

[TexasEd 188]

Best way to do it is use a relay with the original wire as the trigger and the voltage straight from the battery. I hooked mine up on the battery side of the solenoid. 

[Ivo 4]

46 minutes ago, TexasEd said:

Best way to do it is use a relay with the original wire as the trigger and the voltage straight from the battery. I hooked mine up on the battery side of the solenoid. 

That's what I'll try with the electric choke on my new carb. I'm completely new to the electrical stuff, I don't understand relays yet and am nervous not to screw up.

Am I reading the diagrams right, is this wire connecting to the resistor wire and then the coil? The another wire, which goes to the same end of the pigtail is the one, going to the alternator regulator, right?

P.s. The car is non tach.

 

 

 

[det0326 179]

55 minutes ago, Ivo said:

That's what I'll try with the electric choke on my new carb. I'm completely new to the electrical stuff, I don't understand relays yet and am nervous not to screw up.

Am I reading the diagrams right, is this wire connecting to the resistor wire and then the coil? The another wire, which goes to the same end of the pigtail is the one, going to the alternator regulator, right?

P.s. The car is non tach.

 

 

 

 

You are correct.  The fatter pink wire is the resistor wire and smaller one connected to ignition switch with it goes to regulator. Some people use this wire for a switched 12v that has switched to a one wire alt or an alt with internal regulator. Would not  use it tho if u still have OEM alt and reg setup.

[Ivo 4]

Quote

Some people use this wire for a switched 12v that has switched to a one wire alt or an alt with internal regulator. Would not  use it tho if u still have OEM alt and reg setup.

Did not get that. I'm with OEM alternator with external regulator. I'm planning to change to one wire in the future.

 

If I cut the resistor wire 2 inches from the switch and connect it to a new wire, would it work? Or I have to connect the new wire directly to the switch? I'm sorry for the lame questions.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Ivo, this is the suicide hot line calling... can I talk you down from the roof? Please step away from the edge!

First, why do you want to put a GM distributor on a Ford? You profess that "I'm completely new to the electrical stuff".  The new distributor and coil won't make any noticeable difference. It won't make your car run better, and frankly is probably a waste of time, money and effort. The stock OEM system was used in racing these cars back in the day, and the new parts will not improve on that. I'm an electrical engineer and know from a lifetime of experience that every step away from stock is a step in the direction of generic and unproven parts (in your application) that will lead to unintended consequences. The HEI was developed in 1974 by GM because of mandated emission policies. A 69 does not have those issues. It is true that the HEI is able to deliver more spark thanks to the electronic ignition-control module, but so what? It simply isn't needed. Send the stock distributor out to be re-curved if needed, and learn how the weights, vacuum advance, and timing affect engine performance. This can make a huge difference.

Second, since you are "completely new to the electrical stuff", don't change to a one wire alternator. The alternator of choice for a true upgrade to these cars is a 3G. That's the third generation of Ford alternators, and it will charge at a lower RPM. I understand that ONE wire sounds easier to install, but it is not an improvement. Check PA Performance alternators, and keep in mind that more amperage is not necessarily better. If you go over 95 amps it will take more power to turn the alternator- more power than a single v-belt can apply. You will need to go to a dual v-belt system, or a serpentine system. The serpentine will require dumping the old fan, using electric fans, and changing all the pulleys and mounting brackets on the front of the engine. The electric fans drag a ton of power and require an even bigger alternator. This increases cost and is unneeded if you go with a moderate but true upgrade of only 95 amps, which is probably 3 times more than the stock alternator. You would be surprised how many people complain about issues with their aftermarket serpentine belt system. Yes I know that some people will say that they use a single v-belt, but PA Performance deals with the complaints on a daily basis, and insist that it should not be done.

Just my unsolicited two cents.

[TexasEd 188]

17 hours ago, Ivo said:

That's what I'll try with the electric choke on my new carb. I'm completely new to the electrical stuff, I don't understand relays yet and am nervous not to screw up.

Am I reading the diagrams right, is this wire connecting to the resistor wire and then the coil? The another wire, which goes to the same end of the pigtail is the one, going to the alternator regulator, right?

P.s. The car is non tach.

 

 

 

 

The advice I am trying to offer is don’t cut any wires.  Mach 1 driver is also giving good advice. 

you can use the “I” terminal on the solenoid for the choke. 
 

[Mach1 Driver 560]

8 hours ago, Ivo said:

If I cut the resistor wire 2 inches from the switch and connect it to a new wire, would it work? Or I have to connect the new wire directly to the switch?

Be advised that the resistor wire is made of a material that is un-solderable. The only way to connect to it is a crimp type connection. One person suggested using silver solder, but I've seen no confirmation that will work. The best way is to remove the terminal from the plug and "daisy-chain" the new wire together with the other wire into the correct terminal and put it back into the plug. Try Randy at http://midlifeharness.com/ for the proper connector.

[Midlife 814]

There's no real connector for the pink resistor wire by itself.  You'll have to dice and splice as needed.

I'm the one who claims silver solder would work, as it was told to me by a salesman who specializes in various resistor wires.  I have no experience with silver soldering.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

15 hours ago, Midlife said:

I'm the one who claims silver solder would work, as it was told to me by a salesman who specializes in various resistor wires.  I have no experience with silver soldering.

Ya, me either. Maybe you could take the harness to a jeweler- wouldn't that be a hoot!

[det0326 179]

I have done a lot of silver soldering in my time, yes it would work but you would have to be (as elmer fudd would say) vewy vewy carful 

[Mach1 Driver 560]

1 hour ago, det0326 said:

I have done a lot of silver soldering in my time, yes it would work but you would have to be (as elmer fudd would say) vewy vewy carful 

 

[Ivo 4]

Thank you all for the advice! Learning every day. I was on a route to keep it original, but when I had to replace the dist cap and rotor (the rotor top connection was twisted), I was very disappointed with the quality of the reproduction parts, compared to the original. They were from Motorcraft. I live in Europe and especially in my country there are no mechanics with good experience in vintage american cars, which I can trust. If I want good experienced mechanic or service, I have to go abroad and it becomes expensive very quickly. I'll do whatever I can myself, nobody loves my 69 more than me.

Mach1 Driver, I'll listen to you about the alternator. As for the dist, I wanted the convenience with the electronic timing adjustment, I really love the looks, the ignition locking and that there are no ignition boxes.

After reading all suggestions, I'll reconsider and use a relay. 

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Ivo, good luck with that spiffy distributor. Here are some examples of how to connect it schematically (these are not wire diagrams):

If you need a wire diagram, follow this link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing

[Ivo 4]

Thanks, Mach1 Driver! I wonder, could I wire both the dist and the chocke on the same terminal on the regulator?

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Since the amp draw is unknown, I wouldn't connect anything but a relay directly to the regulator. There are 6v and 12v chokes. The 6v is best connected to the Stator terminal of the alternator, while a 12v choke is best connected to a relay on #87 as shown above, with #30 connected to battery +.

[Stevewr54 12]

Listen to Mach 1 Driver. He absolutely knows what he is talking about. You do not want a 1 wire alternator, period. If they were that great the OE would be using them.

If you're absolutely dead set on electronic ignition consider the Ford Duraspark. You can get replacement parts anywhere. Steve