I see the light ... body and paint

[TexasEd 188]

 

So I have been in a queue for getting paint and body work so long I only know it is over a year but not whether it is closer to 18 or 24 months. A month ago I got tired of the delays from my shop and discouraged by all the cars they have in the shop at one time even though they said I was next so I called another shop to check in.  Slightly more money but they seem to get cars in and out quicker and I aint getting younger.  I want to enjoy my car not just leave it to my kids.

Today the second shop said they were moving me up in line from March to late December/early January.  So excited.  Now I'm talking to an individual and a shop on rebuilding the engine that burns oil/fouled plugs while it is at the body shop.  Reduce the amount of time the car is down and get the engine bay detailed at the same time.  I have pretty much done everything else myself and these are the last steps.  My wife actually seems peeved that I have saved for so long towards this goal and would rather I spend it on something else.  Fuck it, I'm happy and here to share the excitement with like minded people.

So share your stories, encouragement and advice.

Drivetrain Plan:

• Pull the engine, AC, Radiator and transmission
• Give the engine to the rebuild shop for a mild stroker build (331, heads, intake, cam, stay carbureted)
• Optional C4 to T5/TKO swap and upgrade the 8" open diff to LSD with taller gears

Body and Paint plan:

• I remove the interior except the dash
• I disassemble the headlight buckets
• I remove door glass and vents

Shop does

• remove the stainless trim
• remove the front and back glass
• Strip the paint from whole body and door jams
• shave the fender emblems and fill antenna hole
• prime and paint with base clear in 2part formula for the original Candyapple Red
• Outsource the headliner install before the glass is reinstalled
• Detail the engine bay
• Get the glass and stainless reinstalled
• Align doors and fenders 
• Install new rear louvers and front chin spoiler
• optional add a '70 Grabber c-stripe to the sides

Engine guy will install the engine transmission and diff.

I could potentially do all the following

• Reinstall door glass, vent glass and interior including Ridge Runner sail panels
• Install all rubber seals
• Reinstall fender extensions/headlight buckets, side scoops and qtr panel extensions
• Reinstall headlights, tail lights and marker lights
• reinstall engine accessories and radiator

Thanks!

 

[RPM 1,190]

Good decision Ed. 

[kblagron 20]

More than likely you could get the glass installed at your place, a lot of the glass guys will come to you.  When your finishing up interior, etc. it is nice to have the glass out, especially in the back if your doing a folding rear seat.

[TexasEd 188]

Thanks. The dash install would benefit from no glass as well. 
 

here are some pictures of what I need addressed  I picked up a near perfect original door but hopefully can save the fender.

 

[det0326 179]

wow Ed when did u wreck your car, I must have missed this. so sorry

[TexasEd 188]

I rolled it into a tree next to my driveway.  Took me almost two weeks to go look at the damage.

Cutting the tree down in a week or two.  It is too close to the driveway now that we have a third driver in the house and was always a problem getting the Mustang out.

[RPM 1,190]

Damn. Sorry to hear this, but you are not alone. Last year in October while leaving Ogallala Nebraska I backed into a parked Yukon damaging my bumper and rear panel. Back circa 1999 with the 69 idling I was adding tranny fluid. Apparently it was started in reverse, and when the trans had enough fluid, it took off into an 8x8 gate post. Damaged the quarter panel, bumper, deck lid,  and rear body panel. 

I feel your pain bro. 

[Rsanter 152]

Some things to think about

 

you remove and reinstall:

emblems

bumpers

door handles

etc

 

how bad is the engine compartment and how extensive of a paint and detail,do,you want to do?

you might want to pull the engine and trans before sending to the body shop, pull the bolts and electrical out of the engine compartment to get a better paint job in there.

you may need to do blasting if there is rust and acid damage

[TexasEd 188]

5 hours ago, Rsanter said:

Some things to think about

 

you remove and reinstall:

emblems

bumpers

door handles

etc

 

how bad is the engine compartment and how extensive of a paint and detail,do,you want to do?

you might want to pull the engine and trans before sending to the body shop, pull the bolts and electrical out of the engine compartment to get a better paint job in there.

you may need to do blasting if there is rust and acid damage

Yeah I did not list all the details but would pull the emblems and bumpers.  Only the medallions and the trunk letters will go back on. Leaving fender emblems off.

The engine and transmission are coming out.  I listed that above.

Not much acid damage.  The engine bay will need to be degreased and power washed at minimum.  I'll consider adding the engine bay stickers back afterwards.  I'll stick with satin black in the engine bay.  Don't care for the color matched bays on Mustangs.

[TexasEd 188]

The tree is gone now. Also adding bricks to widen the end of the driveway. 
 

 

[EastYorkStang 63]

Firewood !

[Rsanter 152]

So the next question I have is:

how well do your windows line up? If all is well you may want to just roll them down! Remove the felts, and then cover the glass with an static or adheasive wrap to prevent overspray.

 

who are you paying the shop to remove the trim and rear glass? That’s something I would look at doing myself.

 

who,is removing all the wiring and brake lines in order to properly paint/detail the engine bay

[TexasEd 188]

12 hours ago, Rsanter said:

So the next question I have is:

how well do your windows line up? If all is well you may want to just roll them down! Remove the felts, and then cover the glass with an static or adheasive wrap to prevent overspray.

 

who are you paying the shop to remove the trim and rear glass? That’s something I would look at doing myself.

 

who,is removing all the wiring and brake lines in order to properly paint/detail the engine bay

Good questions...

Drivers windows line up good but not great.  It will get new felt and rubber so I don't think it matters.  Passenger glass is already out and is getting a new door so I will wait to put the glass in after the door is on and painted.

I'm paying them to do the trim and front/rear glass I don't want to mess with the trim and the glass is too much for me to do.

I'll remove the brake lines and wiring once the engine is out.  I plan to take headlights, tail lights, marker lights all off and tape up the connectors.

 

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

My brother was reving up my mustang ,when he owned it ,in the driveway ,i had told him not to do that unless you are setting in the driver seat with your foot on the brake . While he was leaning over the fender reving it it jumped into gear and slammed into the front porch knocking one of the post out of the ground ,could have crushed him . Those automatics can jump into gear if the tranny and motor mounts are weak allowing the shift rod to pull the gear select . 

[TexasEd 188]

Parts started coming in today!

New front Valance, front spoiler and passenger mirror arrived from NPD today.

[TexasEd 188]

Update:

Plans changed a little.  I got bold and took off all the stainless and aluminum trim.  I learned that my headliner does not go under the windshield, apparently that is factory.

Leaning towards getting the car back without the windshield and rear window, maybe taking them out before it goes to shop.

Shop said they wanted the weather stripping to align the doors.  I've read it is best to align first then add weather stripping.  Trunk may be a different matter though.

I've had the cowl vent off and learned about parts I did not know existed like foam blocks and cowl to fender bushings.

Question: Can I polish my quarter window stainless with it on the glass?  I plan to take the stainless of the door glass to polish it and replace the rubber.

Trying to get subframe connectors in before the engine comes out this weekend.  To the body shop next week.

[aslanefe 333]

You can polish it on the glass, just be careful as it will be little awkward to handle and not heat it much.

[WEEKEND CRUISER 18]

10 hours ago, TexasEd said:

Update:

Plans changed a little.  I got bold and took off all the stainless and aluminum trim.  I learned that my headliner does not go under the windshield, apparently that is factory.

Leaning towards getting the car back without the windshield and rear window, maybe taking them out before it goes to shop.

Shop said they wanted the weather stripping to align the doors.  I've read it is best to align first then add weather stripping.  Trunk may be a different matter though.

I've had the cowl vent off and learned about parts I did not know existed like foam blocks and cowl to fender bushings.

Question: Can I polish my quarter window stainless with it on the glass?  I plan to take the stainless of the door glass to polish it and replace the rubber.

Trying to get subframe connectors in before the engine comes out this weekend.  To the body shop next week.

 

TexasEd are you saying that the front and rear glass does not have to come out in order to install the headliner? I'm going to be installing a new headliner in my car sometime this year and I was dreading to have someone come out just to remove the glass from the car. 

[TexasEd 188]

34 minutes ago, WEEKEND CRUISER said:

 

TexasEd are you saying that the front and rear glass does not have to come out in order to install the headliner? I'm going to be installing a new headliner in my car sometime this year and I was dreading to have someone come out just to remove the glass from the car. 

The front windshield on my car is set directly on the pinch weld.  The headliner stops under the metal trim.  The rear goes under the glass rubber weather strip.  My car was built Jan 1969 in Dearborn.

Picture of the front under the metal trim that the sun visors attach to.  That is the rear view mirror on the right.

 

[WEEKEND CRUISER 18]

Thank you sir! I will need to look at my car a little closer to see if it has been done like yours. I read somewhere on the internet that the front and rear glass had to come out, I might have interpreted that wrong. Maybe it makes it easier if the glass is out, anyway I've been dreading doing the headliner because of thinking the glass had to be removed. It took me a minute to figure out your picture. Thanks again!

[aslanefe 333]

40 minutes ago, WEEKEND CRUISER said:

Thank you sir! I will need to look at my car a little closer to see if it has been done like yours. I read somewhere on the internet that the front and rear glass had to come out, I might have interpreted that wrong. Maybe it makes it easier if the glass is out, anyway I've been dreading doing the headliner because of thinking the glass had to be removed. It took me a minute to figure out your picture. Thanks again!

on 69-70 coupe and fastback, front glass (which does not use weatherstrip) does not need to come out for headliner replacement; but it will make it a little easier to install the headliner with front glass removed. But rear glass and weather strip should come out to do it right. The front glass has to come out on older cars that use a weatherstrip to install the windshield.

[WEEKEND CRUISER 18]

11 hours ago, aslanefe said:

on 69-70 coupe and fastback, front glass (which does not use weatherstrip) does not need to come out for headliner replacement; but it will make it a little easier to install the headliner with front glass removed. But rear glass and weather strip should come out to do it right. The front glass has to come out on older cars that use a weatherstrip to install the windshield.

So if I don't remove the front glass, what is the best way to keep the headliner pulled tight until the glue dries? With the back glass removed I could see using several spring type clamps to keep the headliner tight until the glue dries that would work. Thanks for your advice aslanefe! 

[aslanefe 333]

5 hours ago, WEEKEND CRUISER said:

So if I don't remove the front glass, what is the best way to keep the headliner pulled tight until the glue dries? With the back glass removed I could see using several spring type clamps to keep the headliner tight until the glue dries that would work. Thanks for your advice aslanefe! 

I use 3M glue per their instructions. You put it on to both headliner and the window frame then wait for it to dry until it is not tacky, then join the pieces while pulling tight. This way the glue joins the pieces immediately and not require clips etc for it to dry. You have to be careful with placement of the headliner as you can’t reposition and it is difficult to disjoin the parts. Also, when you install the metal trim back, it pulls the headliner a little more.

Join some scrap pieces using above method and you will see that it grabs immediately and you do not need spring clips. 

[WEEKEND CRUISER 18]

4 hours ago, aslanefe said:

I use 3M glue per their instructions. You put it on to both headliner and the window frame then wait for it to dry until it is not tacky, then join the pieces while pulling tight. This way the glue joins the pieces immediately and not require clips etc for it to dry. You have to be careful with placement of the headliner as you can’t reposition and it is difficult to disjoin the parts. Also, when you install the metal trim back, it pulls the headliner a little more.

Join some scrap pieces using above method and you will see that it grabs immediately and you do not need spring clips. 

 

Ok, that sounds pretty simple and easier than I was expecting. I've been dreading doing this for some time now, but I think I should be able to tackle this on my own without fear of screwing up. Thank you, for your help!

[aslanefe 333]

26 minutes ago, WEEKEND CRUISER said:

 

Ok, that sounds pretty simple and easier than I was expecting. I've been dreading doing this for some time now, but I think I should be able to tackle this on my own without fear of screwing up. Thank you, for your help!

No problem.  Glue the rear first, then alternating the sides between the bows, then front. Good luck.