69volunteer 84 Report post Posted October 10, 2022 I have a freshly rebuilt motor and a completely re-wired car. After setting the timing, the motor started and ran fine several times—even took it down the street for a quick test drive. The next startup a few days later, the motor was idling fine for several minutes and then just died. It wont re-start. No spark. I have a pertronix ignition module, igniter 2 coil, all new cap, rotor, new wiring, new plugs, new plug wires. I have 12v at the coil with the key on. I have since replaced the coil and the ignition module as well as the rotor—I didn’t have a spare cap. If I plug the spark plug wire directly into the coil, I get spark. This has to be something simple—what am I missing? Could be the cap but…..how often do those fail. Possible to get a bad ignition module twice? I have the original points but need to track down a resistor and wire in-line. Any thoughts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted October 10, 2022 FWIW... I had a Flame Thrower coil fail and mailed Pertronix about it. I was told when not used, the coil. to start the car it needs to be disconnected. Otherwise it will build a load and without discharging, will fail. Weak spark/bad coil could be the problem. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69volunteer 84 Report post Posted October 10, 2022 Not sure I follow the middle part of that..."not used...." Meaning if the car sits for a long period of time? I replaced with another Flame Thrower II coil...didnt solve the issue. That is what made me think replace the ignition module. I have had issues with these in the past but have one that has been in another car for 10 years. I'm at a loss though. I guess my last resort is to go back to points and see what happens. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted October 10, 2022 Sorry for the befuddle speech. I was running compression tests and was the reason for the email to Pertronix. Got a quick reply but no offer to replace. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69volunteer 84 Report post Posted October 10, 2022 Got it. I have to think through that--if my issue is down stream (i.e. cap or rotor or points or ignition module) the coil is not discharging and could be damaged? I think my coil is good because I have run a plug wire directly to the coil and getting spark. It is somewhere between the coil and the spark plug. Which isnt much and I have replaced everything but the cap so I am hoping that my cap went bad. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted October 10, 2022 My clue was yellow spark. Blue is good yellow is not. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted October 10, 2022 You mentioned it is rewired- is it OEM style harnesses, or aftermarket with a new style fuse block, relays, etc? The reason I ask, is because if it is OEM style, then it still follows the original wire diagram, while the aftermarket harnesses do not. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69volunteer 84 Report post Posted October 10, 2022 It is aftermarket (AAW) with a fuse block. Curious what that would signify? I did cut and make all the spark plug wires, one thing I did not check was the wire going from the rotor to the cap. That could have rattled loose or been a bad crimp. Add that to the list to inspect. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted October 11, 2022 1. Is it a factory tach car? 2. Are you running the Pertronix at 12v or off the resistor wire? Does AAW even use a resistor wire? Part of my the problem is that since its not stock and I don't know how AAW does this stuff. If you answer those questions I can show you how Ford did it in wire diagram form and in schematic form, and that may help you. The Pertronix modules seem to run better at 12v, instead of 9v, but there is a method to do that and still run a factory tach. The factory tachs are current sensitive and raising the voltage raises the current, which makes them go wacky. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlueCoupe 8 Report post Posted October 11, 2022 I had something similar happen to me...turns out the tab on the rotor got bent down too far somehow. Maybe check that? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69volunteer 84 Report post Posted October 11, 2022 5 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said: 1. Is it a factory tach car? 2. Are you running the Pertronix at 12v or off the resistor wire? Does AAW even use a resistor wire? Part of my the problem is that since its not stock and I don't know how AAW does this stuff. If you answer those questions I can show you how Ford did it in wire diagram form and in schematic form, and that may help you. The Pertronix modules seem to run better at 12v, instead of 9v, but there is a method to do that and still run a factory tach. The factory tachs are current sensitive and raising the voltage raises the current, which makes them go wacky. no resistor--running 12v directly to the coil. Again, I dont think it is the coil as I have 12v with my meter and key on. I ordered a new cap picking it up today....I think I am down to (a) bad cap or (b) the actual plug wire from the coil to the cap. When I got spark by plugging the plug wire directly into the coil, I was using the #8 spark plug wire and and not the coil wire. Since I made all of these plug wires from a MSD kit, possible I have a bad crimp on the coil wire. Of course it was running fine and then just died......so either (a) or (b) seems unlikely but......fingers crossed it is one of these two things. 4 hours ago, BlueCoupe said: I had something similar happen to me...turns out the tab on the rotor got bent down too far somehow. Maybe check that? I am going to check that. I did swap rotors but still possible. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
