MN69Grande 203 Report post Posted September 13, 2022 Maybe not one of my finer moments but this weekend I had the car out on a longer drive in the country. I was about 70 miles from home. I had heard a grinding the previous weekend from the front drivers wheel and thought my pads might be wearing (dumb I didn't pull the wheels after that trip). Anyway the grinding got way worse and it became harder to control the car. Rather than pulling over with out tools and because I could still control the car I decided to limp home at a reduced, though not slow speed. I sure most of you guessed my wheel bearing was going out - and it disintegrated the last 5 or so miles. Pulled the wheel tonight to assess the damage. Both bearing are a pile of mettle and cones knocking around in the rotor. Looking at the spindle it looks like a small gouge was worn into the metal (see pick). Opinion do I order a new spindle or grind the burs off, clean it up, and re-used? You can see 2-3 threads are now missing on the bottom. Also is the Scott Drake an ok replacement? Any other option? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted September 13, 2022 need to remove the bearing race, clean it up and inspect further Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted September 13, 2022 clean it up and compare the other spindle. Not sure about scott drake replacements spindles, almost anything they offer is made overseas now. I would go with StreetorTrack Spindles as they are copies of the 70+ mustangs/torinos which are thicker and are made here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted September 13, 2022 I think i would replace it ,i once had the threaded end of a spindle break off ,if it wasnt for the disk and caliper the wheel and the whole break assembly would have come off Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted September 13, 2022 Got a cast part number? Unfamiliar looking spindle. Looks to me like the threaded portion outside of the flat washer and under the adjusting nut is the gouged/affected area. The rest of the spindle looks OK? Will the spindle end snap off? Probably not but worth the gamble? Me? I would look around for a quality FORD replacement. Left C8OA--3108-C Right C8OA-3107-C would be correct for my car. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted September 13, 2022 Just FYI, I've got a complete set of take off 69 disc spindles I'll make you a great deal on. Includes new rotors. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted September 13, 2022 I don't think the nut would ever reach the area where threads are missing. My concern would be under the race. Was it spinning on the spindle got hot and wiped the bearing out and is now galled to the spindle ? Will it snap off well anything can happen, I would guess it would depend on how hot it may have got. If I did replace it as Brian said, I would try to find a good used one. Aftermarket would be my last resort. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MN69Grande 203 Report post Posted September 13, 2022 Thanks everyone - I was thinking replace as well. So more information I'm running the Kelsey - Hayes style 4 piston setup. They go right onto the stock drum spindles. As for the what/how of the failure I think the bearing gave out (the other side went out 25k miles ago from the same kit I think they were maybe low quality) and I kept driving tearing it all up worse and the the race started riding on the spindle. I didn't take it apart when I got home I came back to it 30 hours later so I don't know it was hot, but I would assume so. Anyway I guess it's time to look for a new drivers side spindle. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MN69Grande 203 Report post Posted September 14, 2022 Ok Spindle ordered. Not sure if folks here use it but I find West Coast Cougar has a lot of misc parts. Looks like they have a pile of spindles (might have come from a cougar but that doesn't really matter). Maybe 'while I'm in there' now is a good time to replace the front shocks and springs. The shocks are 11 years old and ok but if I have to pull one side anyway. I never liked the performance springs and have been thinking of going with the progressive rate ones. Have to sleep on this decision. 2 Mach1 Driver and RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted September 14, 2022 Yep, totally agree on WCCC. You won't get yard sale prices, but sometimes that doesn't matter. 1 TexasEd reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MN69Grande 203 Report post Posted September 14, 2022 17 minutes ago, RPM said: Yep, totally agree on WCCC. You won't get yard sale prices, but sometimes that doesn't matter. No but they aren't horrible $150 for a spindle won't break me I guess. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MN69Grande 203 Report post Posted December 25, 2022 2 months later...... Not that anyone was waiting for an update, but a couple things to note here. I took the nut completely off the lower control arm's ball joint before using a ball joint separator and ruined all the threads. So word of caution to anyone doing this loosen the nut a few thread then use the ball joint tool, then remove the nut further and pull the spindle off the lower control arm. I could not fix the threads so I ended up looking high and low for ball joints ( additionally I found the upper was worn out, not sure it's ever been replaced). The arms are good and I put roller lowers in a few years ago so I didn't want to replace everything. You used to be able to get ball joints at NAPA and such but I wasn't having any luck at the parts store. They wanted to sell complete arms. But Kentucky Mustang had them, and also CJ Pony Parts has listings. https://www.kentuckymustang.com/chassis/suspension.html?cat=160&year=6032 So as the project was getting bigger anyway I also decided to do the Shelby drop and change the front springs. I picked up Ridetech's Shelby kit with ball joint spacers and a template, and their progressive rate springs. Putting in the spring on the first side was interesting I had to compress it a little to get it over the spring perch, but then if fully uncrompressed with no tension as I didn't have the suspension supported by anything. I then installed the shock to the lower control arm and used my floor jack to raise the suspension, while guiding the spring into place. Then I installed the top of the shock. I released the jack and the shock seems to hold everything in place. I'm sure it will be fine with weight back on everything. I'm hoping I don't end up with too much of a rake with the new springs and Shelby drop. I might have to mess with the back end's suspension next. https://www.ridetech.com/product/1967-1970-mustang-streetgrip-dual-rate-front-coil-springs-pair/?mc_cid=bb7414343e&mc_eid=b0e97bead3 https://www.ridetech.com/product/1964-1970-mustang-streetgrip-ball-joint-wedge-plates-pair/?mc_cid=bb7414343e&mc_eid=b0e97bead3 At any rate I've got one side back together next week I should be able to do the other. So first thing in the spring after that I'll get new front tires and an alignment and be ready to go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted December 25, 2022 I am also running the Kelsey-Hayes style 4 piston calipers & everything bolted to the stock drum spindles. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
