Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Casgar

New shock tower is not perfect

Recommended Posts

I'm working on replacing the passenger side shock tower since the old one was twisted and had a crack in it. The new shock tower looks good, but have some minor issues. The biggest is that when I have it positioned and flush towards the frame rail and the lower control arm mounting point is in perfect position the part above the frame rail lean out by about 2.5 degrees compared to the driver side tower (0 dergees).

Just pushing the tower inwards at this point means that the gaps towards the frame rail increases and the lower control arm mount gets lower. Not good either. No matter how you turn you still have your ass behind you (swedish proverb).

My current plan is to make a relief cut across the inner structure (red) and try to bend the tower inwards across the top of the frame rail (green), and then just weld it together again.

Just writing this to check with you guys if you think it's a good idea, or if there is some better way to adress this.

bfIiVvp.jpg     yRTUyap.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like that idea, and wouldn't have an issue doing it myself. Seems like the easiest way to me. But I've been seeing before. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Two excellent points Jim and Randy. My inner fenders are 40 ¼" apart at the arrow in the pic, which is the front apron surface. 

20220629_220128.thumb.jpg.bfd064c75e22ccab4657bc50922cd6d0.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/30/2022 at 7:06 AM, RPM said:

Two excellent points Jim and Randy. My inner fenders are 40 ¼" apart at the arrow in the pic, which is the front apron surface.

If I push in the tower until it touches the rear fender apron I get pretty close to your number, within 1/8".

On 6/30/2022 at 4:18 AM, Midlife said:

Use an export brace to ensure the upper structures of the shock tower are in alignment.

Originally the car had the 2-piece export brace, which I don't have around at the moment. I don't really think those are a good way to get a reference point though. I bought a 1-piece, but it's not perfect eighter. The mounting surface at the cowl point upward towards the front a fair amount and if I align the tower according to RPM's numbers above the brace still wants me to pull the towers closer together by an adittional 1/2" to 3/4". The center-to-center distance between the inner most holes on the brace is 30.6", if someone wants to compare.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Casgar said:

If I push in the tower until it touches the rear fender apron I get pretty close to your number, within 1/8".

 The center-to-center distance between the inner most holes on the brace is 30.6", if someone wants to compare.

Within an 1/8" on these cars is golden. 

My C to C between the two inner most holes is 30-9/16", which is close enough for government work. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think maybe your frame rail maybe twisted also. You probably need to try to determine if it is or not and if it is you may have to weld the tower to the frame rail with it sitting flush like it is suppose to be and then put a  comealong winch on it some how and pull it back where it belongs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya, spending some time now checking might save you some trouble later. I'd use a digital level at the rear torque box, Front rails at torque box, and the front of the front rails.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/29/2022 at 10:06 PM, RPM said:

Two excellent points Jim and Randy. My inner fenders are 40 ¼" apart at the arrow in the pic, which is the front apron surface. 

20220629_220128.thumb.jpg.bfd064c75e22ccab4657bc50922cd6d0.jpg

Just to verify; 40 .25" is the measurement I have. I have Drake export brace installed.  The engine crossmembers measures 29.5" center to center. Brian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, det0326 said:

I think maybe your frame rail maybe twisted also. You probably need to try to determine if it is or not and if it is you may have to weld the tower to the frame rail with it sitting flush like it is suppose to be and then put a  comealong winch on it some how and pull it back where it belongs.

Hmm... You might be on to something. I quickly went out and measured some angles with my phone and it might looks like both frame rails are twisted out slightly at the top, possibly more on the passenger side, but everything below 1 degree. Another think to keep in mind for sure. The mounting surface for the upper control arm on the old tower were also pulled out approximately 1/2", so that would also explain a twist in the frame rails.

Readjusting the twist should be the last thing to do, right? Cutting, bending and rewelding the shock tower to replicate the relative angles on the driver side tower > welding the shock tower to the frame rail > twisting the frame rails with the tower so that the export brace fit.

2 hours ago, det0326 said:

Another question is when u still had the fenders on, how did the fender to hood gaps look?

Horizontally not that bad, but vertically pretty bad since the driver side frame rail pointed up by about 5/8" in the front. I had the cahssi aligned by a professional 2 years ago, so the cross measurements and datum line measurements should be as good as they can get without risking making them even worse.

58 minutes ago, Brian Conway said:

Just to verify; 40 .25" is the measurement I have. I have Drake export brace installed.  The engine crossmembers measures 29.5" center to center. Brian

My crossmember (or rather the frame rail bolt holes) measures 29.4" C-C, +/- 0.1". So that might also support the theory of twisted frame rails.

This is why many brains together is superior to a single lonely one. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know what Ford's tolerance was for measurements was, but I'm thinking it wasn't too tight. My 69 left to right measurements are a quarter inch off on some locations, without any front end damage. They certainly weren't building watches. Ya gotta keep that in mind. 

I've built several engine crossmembers and my car and jig are at 29⅜ center to center for the bolt holes. A lot of our cars have varying measurements from each other. I don't remember what measurement VMF member Zray uses for his engine crossmember, but I've read of several buyers who after buying a Zray crossmember it didn't fit their Mustang. Just something to consider. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...