Radiator support replacement tips

[Casgar 21]

I'm about to replace the radiator support and at least the right front inner fender because sometime in the past the car was in a crash and had the right front corner pushed in, and then pushed out again with a crude method, most likely a BFH and a prybar. What would be the best way to aling the radiator support? Just try to use the same cross measurements as the left side, or install the hood and try to line it up relative to that? Any other tips?

Also, the radiator support crossmember have had some rough times too, but nothing that I think would need a replacement since it really can't be seen from the outside. Lets just call it battle scars. :) I have had the frame aligned and I'm also afraid removing the crossmember will release some tensions and make a replacement a pain in the a**, but I'm uncertain what some of the holes are for since I can't remember when I picked the car apart. What are the three bold holes in the middle of this picture for? Do they need to be straight?

I should probably make a project thread someday too... :)

[Brian Conway 264]

Those 'three bolt holes' are vacant on my car.  Brian

[potato 10]

When I did my 73, I used a 2x4 and a square to do what is known as a "story pole" in woodworking and construction.  I was able to hang my radiator off the 2x4, so I didn't even need to drain my coolant to do the job.

Take off your fenders.  Then use the existing holes in the inner fenders to screw up and through a 2x4.  This helps brace the car in position when you start removing structural stuff so the car doesn't move around.  Without something to give it structure, the top of the inner fenders can be moved around several inches.

Then, using a framing square, I marked the exact position of a bunch of holes and features in the radiator support in my 2x4.  This is so when you start putting the new one in, you have a dozen reference points.

I used my old radiator support as a test piece to get my welder dialed in.  Its real easy to blow holes through sheet metal if its not something you do every day.  And dont worry too much about trying to make youtube pretty welds.  30 seconds with your grinder and a flapper wheel turns ugly welds into pretty ones.  I've seen folks use a harbor freight spot welder to do some of the job.  I dont think the jaws can reach around some of the inside curves to do the whole job.

 

[jmlay 80]

I would start with measuring between the frame rails near the radiator support and where the frame rails enter the rail extensions. Compare to ensure they are the same. If the are not the same one or both rails are not strait. Next I would find fixed points on the rails to make cross measurements to decide what if a thing has moved. 

Assuming all of the above checks out I would note all of the dimentions as listed in the attached thread. Note: There will be variances between cars. 

If your afraid the rails are going to move, they should not if there is no stress in the rails, one may brace them before cutting anything out.

 

 

[Casgar 21]

23 hours ago, Brian Conway said:

Those 'three bolt holes' are vacant on my car.  Brian

Good to hear. The crossmember is staying as it is then, which makes everything abit easier.

 

21 hours ago, potato said:

When I did my 73, I used a 2x4 and a square to do what is known as a "story pole" in woodworking and construction.  I was able to hang my radiator off the 2x4, so I didn't even need to drain my coolant to do the job.

......

I will have to replace the front fender too so I'm not sure how useful this is for my specific case. It's a great tip though.

[Brian Conway 264]

Casgar you should know that while those 3 holes are vacant on my car my hood latch support does line up perfectly with the center threaded hole in your crossmember photo. Brian