Best access to tank fuel gauge leads

[JayEstes 172]

Howdy ya’ll.  I finally bought a Tanks Inc. “MeterMatch” to improve my gas gauge readings.  So I’m ready to put this guy in but I’m trying to figure the best place to put it.  I am a little reticent to cut the original harness, but I’ve got to be able to read the ohms from the sender.  I’m also wanting to NOT work under the freaking dash.

So what I’m really looking for is best place to tap into the readings from the gauge, and have a local spot to hold the little module in place.

Advice, suggestions?  Midlife? Anyone?

Edited February 5, 2022 by JayEstes
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[Rich Ackermann 174]

3 hours ago, JayEstes said:

Howdy ya’ll.  I finally bought a Tanks Inc. “MeterMatch” to improve my gas gauge readings.  So I’m ready to put this guy in but I’m trying to figure the best place to put it.  I am a little reticent to cut the original harness, but I’ve got to be able to read the ohms from the sender.  I’m also wanting to NOT work under the freaking dash.

So what I’m really looking for is best place to tap into the readings from the gauge, and have a local spot to hold the little module in place.

Advice, suggestions?  Midlife? Anyone?

I put mine on double stick tape and stuck up behind the gauge cluster on the underside of the cowl between the column and the kick panel with enough wire that I can pull down to the floor where it's easy to see and adjust. It is also right next to the wire harness with the fuel sender wire. A good spot to splice the metermatch in.

[aslanefe 333]

If you do not want to cut/splice your original harness, only solution I see is mount it in the trunk; hook up metermatch to the wire to the sender and post from the sender. You have to run a wire to the trunk to power the metermatch.

[JayEstes 172]

Those are some great points of feedback - thank you both.  I had a look around and thought about it some while waiting on the feedback, and as you guys say,  the only way I could really do it without cutting into the harness is to buy another wire with matching bullets connectors, and clip the ends of it to patch it in.  If I can find some bullet connectors that work at the sender, I think i am leaning to put the meter match in the trunk.  It turns out I have power in the truck already because I put an amp in the trunk.  I can grab a good ground from a screw holding the trunk down.  Then, I just need to either snip the harness with the sender lead, or create a pigtail with the same connector as the sender.  This gives me easy access to the device, and a simple install I think.  

If anyone knows where i could find matching male and female bullet connectors for cheap I would appreciate the tip.

Jay

[Rich Ackermann 174]

23 minutes ago, JayEstes said:

Those are some great points of feedback - thank you both.  I had a look around and thought about it some while waiting on the feedback, and as you guys say,  the only way I could really do it without cutting into the harness is to buy another wire with matching bullets connectors, and clip the ends of it to patch it in.  If I can find some bullet connectors that work at the sender, I think i am leaning to put the meter match in the trunk.  It turns out I have power in the truck already because I put an amp in the trunk.  I can grab a good ground from a screw holding the trunk down.  Then, I just need to either snip the harness with the sender lead, or create a pigtail with the same connector as the sender.  This gives me easy access to the device, and a simple install I think.  

If anyone knows where i could find matching male and female bullet connectors for cheap I would appreciate the tip.

Jay

I found it important to be able to adjust the MeterMatch while what the fuel gauge. The fuel gauge and the adjustments to MeterMatch do not react instantly. Having actually installed and adjusted it, the trunk would make fine tuning the settings difficult to do.

[Midlife 814]

I get male/female bullet connectors at delcity.net under trailer connectors.  The 69/70 fuel sending unit uses a standard #8 bolt, and the 90* slip-on connectors that NPD now sells should fit it. 

[det0326 179]

Just wondering, have u replaced the sender in the tank?

[JayEstes 172]

9 hours ago, det0326 said:

Just wondering, have u replaced the sender in the tank?

well, yes, and no.  The original one that was always wrong has been replaced by a cheap chinese repro which is always wrong.  Don't get me wrong, when you fill the tank it says "way full"... and it stays there until it starts to go down, which is quick, and then it says empty for a a couple of days worth of driving before it goes out.  Both were kinda the same, but never right.  I'm kinda anal, and I feel, like when I fill the tank, it should point to the F, and then juuuuuust before i am completely out of gas it should point to the E.  I know that's being kinda picky, but I'm actually trying to get it to behave correctly.

SO, I like this stupid-expensive calibration tool, which makes it behave how I feel it should - even though I probably oughta fill the tank as soon as it goes below half-full like my dad always said....

[det0326 179]

Good that it has been replaced. If you were getting an inconsistent signal to your  meter match it probably wouldn't be accurate all the time either.