Sound and Heat Instulation

[rwcstang 201]

Hey All,

wanted to your advice on the best Sound and Heat Insulation and seam sealer prep.

Going to reseam some of the areas of the interior as most of it is dried up then primer and seal up the interior floor pans.

Also, I would like to use modern sound/heat deadener but read that if not prepped properly, rust can come back or some of the deader is not true Buytl rubber as its mixed with Asphalt which can trap moisture.

any advice on prep and brand to use?  I've read you can use frost king from home depot aswell.

 

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

I use 3m tan seam sealer for all the joints and seams ,look is the same as factory and works very well . 

I would stay away from the sticky back sound deadeners ,i have had to replace floors with this stuck to it and it is a night mare if you ever need to remove it 

[rwcstang 201]

13 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

I use 3m tan seam sealer for all the joints and seams ,look is the same as factory and works very well . 

I would stay away from the sticky back sound deadeners ,i have had to replace floors with this stuck to it and it is a night mare if you ever need to remove it 

Hi Ridge! good to hear from ya! Thank you for for recommendation, in regards to the seam sealer, Im assuming it was brushed on in larger areas, while the small areas used a caulking gun? 

I've read alot of pros and cons to the sound/heat deadener mats, so Im leaning more to spray on kit like lizard skin or just using primer and sealer to protect it from rust.

have you done anything to your cars to keep out heat and sound? I was trying to look for something similar to the mats they used under the rug, but couldn't find anything close to it. 

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

I actually sold all my mustangs to buy some property and that fell through . I used to double the factory type sound deadner . I use the caulking seam sealer ,if needed it can be spread with a small brush . I recently did a fast back conversion that had the sticky back sound deadener and couldnt get the stuff off ,wound up cutting 1 inch strips and scraped with a putty knife ,took almost a week just to remove enough of it to do my replacement panels ,i will never use it .

[Jesse 69 Fastback 26]

There’s an easier way to remove the tar-based sound deadener.  Check this out:

Regardless, I’m planning on going with Lizard Skin when I get the metalwork and paint done. 

[RobotMan 264]

I recently used a product called Acoustishield from Quiet Ride Solutions on my nephews 73 Mach 1. It was a little pricey but is a custom kit for your specific car. It comes with precut labeled dynamat strips to be placed throughout the car to reduce vibration and noise. A precut heat shield insulation is then placed over that with extremely tacky spray glue. Finally, a seam tape is used to cover all remaining seams. I was very impressed with ease of installations, instructions and quality of product. Might want to take a look. Wish I knew about it when I did my boys 69 Mach 1s.  Will definitely use on future cars. You can buy just a particular area package or the entire car. After just doing the floor pan and tunnel area his car went from being difficult to hear each other inside to being able to carry on a comfortable conversation with a 351 Cleveland rumbling. Here’s a couple of pics during our floor pan install. Cheers!

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Since cleanup after applying Lizardskin is with water, it must be hydroscopic and if it gets wet I would think it would promote rust, not block it. That's probably the reason they say that rust must be removed and Lizardskin applied over a protective primer. I guess the logical question is; if required, how would you remove Lizardskin? I don't see any information on how that is done.

[det0326 179]

The guy using dry ice, body hammer and chisel would not be my first choice. 

[rwcstang 201]

Thanks guys, I definitely don't want to install dynamat or some form of adhesive mat i think thats just asking for rust to build up again or a heahache to remove the stuff later in the future. 

Lizard skin was my other choice,  but i think it would just get too messy for me.

I think the only logical choice would to prep, primer and seal the floor boards and use a non adhesive heat/acoustic mat but use a 3m double sided tape that is capable to handle heat and not melt or move. this would be easy to service in the future. 

now I just need to find a non adhesive mat lol 

 

 

[Mach1 Driver 560]

4 hours ago, det0326 said:

The guy using dry ice, body hammer and chisel would not be my first choice. 

Yeah I was wondering how many dents had to be removed from the roof of that Camaro. I am waiting for a reply from LizardSkin to find out if it is hydroscopic and how to remove it if repairs are required.

Edit, I got a quick response:

Once the coating is dry, it has to be submerged in water for 24+ hours to absorb any considerable amount water. It won’t absorb humidity or anything like that. If it does become submerged for prolonged periods, the water can damage the coating’s integrity, but it just depends on the situation and you’d have to see how the coating is holding up after a few days dry time.

If it has to be removed, a grinding wheel is the easiest way to do so. If some does need to be taken off and replaced after the work is done, it can be sprayed back on to the surface as long as it is primed (for steel surfaces) and clean of any dust/debris. You can just slightly overlap with the existing coating to try to make it as seamless as possible.

Hope this answers your questions, please let me know if there is anything else we can help with. Thanks so much.

[Midlife 814]

Just don't get that lizard skin on your hootus. 

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/how-do-i-get-herculiner-off-of-my-hootus.18595/