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rwcstang

69 parking brake schematic

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Hi all, hope everyone had a good thanks giving! 

going to replace my e-brake cable that mounts to the pedal bracket, do anyone have a schematic of how its assembled?

also whats the best way to take out the cable that goes through the toe board?

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The only tip I can give is that cable does go through the driver side torque box. I know the  replacement torque box, for lack of a better word, has a tube that guides the cable through. My old torque box didn't so u might want to tie something to the old one before pulling it through. May help in getting the new cable through the TB.

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3 hours ago, det0326 said:

The only tip I can give is that cable does go through the driver side torque box. I know the  replacement torque box, for lack of a better word, has a tube that guides the cable through. My old torque box didn't so u might want to tie something to the old one before pulling it through. May help in getting the new cable through the TB.

Thanks, I'm replacing the inner torque box, toe board and front driver floor pan but Luckily the old box has the guided tube inside, but noticed the inner tq box is severly rusted and its been quite a tug of war with the pulling out the cable. ill try again and spray it with wd40 maybe that will help.

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I have the necessary brackets, Im just curious whats the best way to remove that cable that goes through the toeboard, seems like the insulator around the cable is not budging even though I disconnected the cables and clips, Im assuming due to the rust sticking on the rubber so I may need to cut it and just replace it completely.

This is the cable I'm referring to:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-parking-brake-cable-concours-correct-front-1969-1970/p/PBCF14/

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I did mine - it was a bear. I'm pretty sure it came out the top - you can see the "hot dog" sticking out, so I figured that was less travel for it than out the bottom. The rubber binds up around the bend and hardens. 

 

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12 hours ago, dbmac said:

I did mine - it was a bear. I'm pretty sure it came out the top - you can see the "hot dog" sticking out, so I figured that was less travel for it than out the bottom. The rubber binds up around the bend and hardens. 

 

good to know, I'll try to pull upwards, to see if that works, I soaked it with WD40 today, so hopefully it'll be easier to pull. 

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Update - replaced toeboard, inner torque box, flr pan and seat riser.

need a couple of measurements, need to drill two holes for the highbeam switch, can anyone take any measurements from the ecable hole for me?

Also, I noticed my ebrake return spring clip is broken, and need a replacement, anyone know the part number or where I can find this? I've looked at NPD/CJPP and WCC but maybe Im not looking hard enough.

 

ebake.jpg

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Mine looks a little different than the picture you posted.  I don't know if they are truly different or mine had a repair.  you can see my new spring on the rod here.  That rod is an extension of the pull handle.  To install it I took off the handle assembly by prying open the two tabs on either side of the cam at the top of your picture.  Then I was able to wiggle the whole thing including the bar out.  You should be able to reassemble it with a washer as a spring retainer the only thing is that the nylon washer sleeve through the hole keeps it from binding when you pull.

B4861A7F-A812-4397-BB59-D11BB8DA68AF.jpeg

 

mine looks more like this

image.png.2d87bb25af96cff11218310fbb4c8737.png

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Here is a post from 2012 when I was fixing the shade tree fix on mine that discusses this.  I ended up finding a spring in either one of those 1000 spring assortment kits from HFT or in a box at Home Depot.  My grommet was already there.

 

 

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4 hours ago, rwcstang said:

Thanks Ed, looks like ill be looking for a rubber grommet from the old post. What size did you use? going to buy an assortment kit.

My grommet was there only the spring was missing. It's not rubber, I think nylon but brass would probably work. 

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