Mountaineerfan 44 Report post Posted September 2, 2021 Hey, everyone! So I'm getting tired of messing with the fuel sender and it's poor gauge reading. Has anyone tried a MeterMatch? I've heard good things about it on VMF, but that was with a 65. Has anyone connected one to a 69, and if so, how/where did you splice it into the wiring? https://www.npdlink.com/product/metermatch-fuel-tank-sender-calibrator-and-interface-module/216214?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dfuel%2Bsender%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted September 2, 2021 I've heard good things too, but not tried it since I intend to go with Dakota Digital. I even had a discussion with Metermatch about using it with Dakota gauges, but since neither of us knew what Dakota's interface was exactly, we couldn't determine compatibility. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted September 2, 2021 I have found a lot of times if the gauge is reading low it is usually a ground problem, that is if the sender is in proper working order. I always run a dedicated ground from where battery ground connects to engine block to the rear of car. Speaking of the Dakota gauges the VHX series that I used on the chev had a menu selection for different resistance ranges. I don't think they were close enough tho if the proper selection does not work that you could select another one higher or lower to help correct the situation. 1 Mach1 Driver reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rich Ackermann 174 Report post Posted September 7, 2021 I installed MeterMatch week. After having installed a Holley in tank retro fuel pump with the integrated sender for a 70 Mustang with a 22 gallon tank and having difficulty matching the new sender up with stock Fuel gauge. With 6 gallons of gas in the tank the gauge remained on "E". I installed MeterMatch. I spliced it in to the yellow sender wire behind the dash cluster before the circuit board plug.Meter match requires 12v accessory, ground, and the sender wire in and out (spliced in before the dash cluster plug). There is an optional 12v on/off pulse for a high and low indicator (a bulb or chime for example). I used it with an LED bulb to set a low fuel flashing warning light. There are four Fuel level data points you can set on MeterMatch. I set them to have the needle point to a little below E= 2 gallons, 1/4=5.5 Gallons, 1/2= 11Galons, and a little above F= 22 Gallons. I inserted a wire probe on the yellow sender wire before MeterMatch to monitor and record the ohms the sender was sending to MeterMatch. It takes time to fill the tank to these precise amounts and let the gauge settle in, then adjust the Ohms MeterMatch is sending to the gauge up or down to get the needle to where you want it. I drained the tank in reverse to confirm the needle came down to the expected levels and filled it a second time fine tuning my original settings. I attached it under the dash next to the fuse box with adhesive velcro where I can pull it down and remove the cover to make future adjustments. Important if your sender is not just off but it is sending inconsistent or erratic ohm values, MeterMatch won't help you fix that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites