Fixing the Instrument Panel

[Mach1 Driver 430]

This has been updated to include both the tachometer and non-tach cars.This may be more detail than you need, but it is sure to have information you can't get elsewhere.

1. It identifies all the wires coming into the plug for the flex connector, what they do, and how to test them.

2. How the Instrument Voltage Regulator works and how to test it.

3. How the gauges work, several ways to test them, and a detailed method to adjust or calibrate them.

4. How to test each component- all the various lights (there are twelve of them) and even how to fix the ammeter.

In rev5 I have updated page 7 with new information on calibrating the gauges. Some people insist that the resistance of the senders is 73 ohms, while others claim it is 78 ohms.  Regardless it is only a 6% difference and since Ford does not publish their specs, we will probably never know. But, since I'm lazy and didn't feel like changing the pictures on all the other pages, it is stated as being 78 ohms on page 7 and 73 ohms on many other pages.

 

 

69-70 instrument gauge cluster5.docx

[Midlife 734]

Very nicely done.  Still awaiting the write-up of how the voltage regulator works.

Are you available for hire?  I could use someone who isn't afraid of 'lectricity...

[Mach1 Driver 430]

On 8/2/2021 at 9:45 PM, Midlife said:

Still awaiting the write-up of how the voltage regulator works.

Hmm, I've never taken the alternator's regulator apart. If I have a need, I may take that on, but it would just be for intellectual curiosity. You can get an electronic version that may work even better than the old electro-mechanical. But, I did find some down side to the electronic IVRs that are noted in the paper above, so ya never know.

Edit, I did a paper on How Alternators Work- see it here in the How tos.

[whe42 0]

thanks