Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted August 2, 2021 This has been updated to include both the tachometer and non-tach cars.This may be more detail than you need, but it is sure to have information you can't get elsewhere. 1. It identifies all the wires coming into the plug for the flex connector, what they do, and how to test them. 2. How the Instrument Voltage Regulator works and how to test it. 3. How the gauges work, several ways to test them, and a detailed method to adjust or calibrate them. 4. How to test each component- all the various lights (there are twelve of them) and even how to fix the ammeter. In rev5 I have updated page 7 with new information on calibrating the gauges. Some people insist that the resistance of the senders is 73 ohms, while others claim it is 78 ohms. Regardless it is only a 6% difference and since Ford does not publish their specs, we will probably never know. But, since I'm lazy and didn't feel like changing the pictures on all the other pages, it is stated as being 78 ohms on page 7 and 73 ohms on many other pages. 5. A couple of years have passed. A VMF member provided pictures from his tach dash car so I incorporated those into rev6, and reorganized the document into obvious sections like IVR, Gauges, Chassis Grounds, Non-tach car testing, and Tach car testing. I believe the changes make it easier to diagnose and repair either version of car. In light of the problems plaguing the site with "Bandwidth Limit Exceeded" I have added a method to view this document and others on: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing 69-70 instrument gauge cluster6.docx 2 1 RPM, TexasEd and copb8 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted August 3, 2021 Very nicely done. Still awaiting the write-up of how the voltage regulator works. Are you available for hire? I could use someone who isn't afraid of 'lectricity... 1 Mach1 Driver reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted August 5, 2021 On 8/2/2021 at 9:45 PM, Midlife said: Still awaiting the write-up of how the voltage regulator works. Hmm, I've never taken the alternator's regulator apart. If I have a need, I may take that on, but it would just be for intellectual curiosity. You can get an electronic version that may work even better than the old electro-mechanical. But, I did find some down side to the electronic IVRs that are noted in the paper above, so ya never know. Edit, I did a paper on How Alternators Work- see it here in the How tos. 1 TexasEd reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whe42 3 Report post Posted June 10, 2022 thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969vert 55 Report post Posted December 10, 2023 Just redid my cluster again...3 or 4 th time getting ready to reinstall...no gauges...took it all back apart...had resistance on the power side to ground.......oil fuel temp ..took Holley 4150 nylon washers and put them on all the studs...done .. cluster is ready to go back in but I smoked the voltage regulator...sure wish I had a nos regulator laying around....don't want solid state...hope this helps others out Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
