69 70 rear quarter glass nylon rollers

[Rcodenewf 44]

Anyone reproducing the rollers for the rear quarter glass on 69 70 convertibles...coupes are probably the same.?

Thanks...John

[aslanefe 333]

14 hours ago, Rcodenewf said:

Anyone reproducing the rollers for the rear quarter glass on 69 70 convertibles...coupes are probably the same.?

Thanks...John

Are you talking about the rollers that are installed with swaged stand off to the glass frame and slide inside the 3 rails? If so, I could not find any reproductions. I had a couple which had the springed edges broken. So I 3D printed a couple from ABS, ground the swaged part of the stand off, drilled a hole through the stand off and tapped it. Installed the 3D printed roller using the modified stand off and a bolt. Have been using them for a few years now and still working (but the rear windows do not get rolled up and down a lot).

[Kris 90]

I built some of of uhmw plastic. I found 2 holes saws that were the correct size and built them. One for the base and one for the side that goes in the track. I drilled part way from both directions the correct depth of the original. Then I counter suck a hole in it to and put a stainless 1/4” bolt in with a lock nut. It looks large in the picture but is the same outer diameter as the factory, just round. It travels good in the track with no issues that I’ve noticed. 

[Rcodenewf 44]

Thanks aslanefe and Kris: Kris in your pic it shows your modified roller with a slot to keep it from moving..correct? I would imagine that you built them a 'tad' bigger to compensate for wear on the originals? As i roll the window up it kind of jams and then i can easily rock the glass clockwise and it will crank up some more so there's definitely slop there.

I'm going to pull that glass out again as i'm in the assembly stage and it's easy to do now with the panels not installed yet.

Appreciate the responses guys...thanks.

John

[aslanefe 333]

1 hour ago, Rcodenewf said:

Thanks aslanefe and Kris: Kris in your pic it shows your modified roller with a slot to keep it from moving..correct? I would imagine that you built them a 'tad' bigger to compensate for wear on the originals? As i roll the window up it kind of jams and then i can easily rock the glass clockwise and it will crank up some more so there's definitely slop there.

I'm going to pull that glass out again as i'm in the assembly stage and it's easy to do now with the panels not installed yet.

Appreciate the responses guys...thanks.

John

A couple cars i dealt with same issue is that what usually happens is one of the tabs (springy parts on the side of the roller) breaks and creates slop/rocking of the glass and jams while rolling up and down. Slot you see on Kris' photo is also on original rollers to prevent them from rolling so they slide with springy sides always touching the slide. 

I modeled the roller very close to originals (with springy part etc)If you do not want to follows Kris'DIY, I can look around and see if I can find the 3D file and print for you; won't cost much if I can find the file.

[Rcodenewf 44]

aslanefe: Yeah, if you have the file that would be awesome. Whatever is easiest for you. They would then bolt in correct?

Appreciate all the help guys.

john

[Caseyrhe 650]

May look at the hardware store, similar rollers used on cabinet drawers and screen doors

[Rcodenewf 44]

3 hours ago, Caseyrhe said:

May look at the hardware store, similar rollers used on cabinet drawers and screen doors

Really?

[aslanefe 333]

4 hours ago, Rcodenewf said:

aslanefe: Yeah, if you have the file that would be awesome. Whatever is easiest for you. They would then bolt in correct?

Appreciate all the help guys.

john

As I modeled it after the original, I ground the swaged end of the stud that attaches the roller and removed the stud (and broken roller) out. Then drilled a hole in the middle of the stud I removed (the swaged end), threaded the hole and used a screw and 2 washers (one with an inside hole bigger than the diameter of stud, one smaller) to attach the stud back to frame with new roller. The screw and washers are where the swage was. I guess you can use a bolt and nut but you have to make sure the bolt head sinks inside the roller and does not scrape on the channel it runs on.

You might be able to find a roller in hardware store which can work (or modified to work). I couldn't, so I made my own.

I found the model and can print when I get a chance. If you want 3D printed one, PM me how many you want and your need to have date and we can go from there.

[Rcodenewf 44]

Aslanefe: sounds good. Ill pm u.

Thanks..John

[Caseyrhe 650]

8 hours ago, Rcodenewf said:

Really?

yes sir

[Rcodenewf 44]

Sorry for the delay guys...put my back out working on this beast and hobbling around in the shop today. What i found was this: I removed the glass again...none of the rollers were broken but they were certainly wobbling around on the swedged post. As the post is countersunk in the roller somewhat, i taped two small washers over the post so the post/washers would contact my steel workbench rather than the nylon roller. I then peened the other side over again with a flat punch to tighten it up...that certainly did the trick.

Appreciated everyones' input for sure.

Onto the next problem once my back is up to it...lol.

Thanks..John