Driver's side floor pan

[TexasEd 188]

I have some rust on the driver's floor pan so I ordered this one:

https://www.npdlink.com/product/floor-pan-long-front-lh/100895?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3D107-1LH%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D

I am worried about a couple of things.

1. the rocker flange is bent down instead of up.  Says it in the description but I missed it.
2. I have some minor damage to the original floor pan at the seat bolt access hole so I want to replace at least back to there.  Can I do it without removing the seat riser?

It looks like I will be removing the fuel line.  Not terrible because I will get the gas tank out and fix a hole in the trunk too.

How far back would you replace the pan it you were me and had minor damage to the seat bolt hole and were doing this for the first time?

 

Thanks

 

[aslanefe 333]

1 hour ago, TexasEd said:

I have some rust on the driver's floor pan so I ordered this one:

https://www.npdlink.com/product/floor-pan-long-front-lh/100895?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3D107-1LH%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D

I am worried about a couple of things.

1. the rocker flange is bent down instead of up.  Says it in the description but I missed it.
2. I have some minor damage to the original floor pan at the seat bolt access hole so I want to replace at least back to there.  Can I do it without removing the seat riser?

It looks like I will be removing the fuel line.  Not terrible because I will get the gas tank out and fix a hole in the trunk too.

How far back would you replace the pan it you were me and had minor damage to the seat bolt hole and were doing this for the first time?

 

Thanks

 

I believe convertible floor pan has the lip bent down and you can install this one without removing the seat riser on a fastback. You can cut the old one out as big as the replacement one so the aft portion is at or past the seat riser, then weld this one with lip down on rocker (with seat riser in place), and butt weld the aft and inboard sides. It will not be correct but you are already using a non-correct for 69-70 front floor pan anyway.

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

I usually bend the lip up when i do have to do just a patch ,you can cut the floor pan across the center lip of the seat riser under the floor ,it makes for a good joint and easier to hide . 

If the seat belt hole is simply stripped out you can replace just the plate the bolt threads into . If it is blown out i would just patch it in a seperate patch  

[TexasEd 188]

9 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

I usually bend the lip up when i do have to do just a patch ,you can cut the floor pan across the center lip of the seat riser under the floor ,it makes for a good joint and easier to hide . 

If the seat belt hole is simply stripped out you can replace just the plate the bolt threads into . If it is blown out i would just patch it in a seperate patch  

it's the seat bolt access hole under the seat riser.  the threaded belt hole is fine.  Thanks for the tip.

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

Haha ,for some reason i read that as seat belt hole haha 

[Mike65 475]

On 6/8/2021 at 7:39 PM, TexasEd said:

I have some rust on the driver's floor pan so I ordered this one:

https://www.npdlink.com/product/floor-pan-long-front-lh/100895?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3D107-1LH%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D

How far back would you replace the pan it you were me and had minor damage to the seat bolt hole and were doing this for the first time?

 

Thanks

 

I would just cut out the bad metal & replace only what is needed.

[TexasEd 188]

Got this much out before it got to 100 degrees al little more on the left and some under the seat riser to go. 

[TexasEd 188]

I’ve got everything in front of the floor pan I need to cut out. Just a small section under the floor pan is my thought any comments before I cut?