Boss 9 Tribute

[Viperpete 38]

2 hours ago, aslanefe said:

After you weld the side frames, quarters etc, they will keep the passenger side X- 6 1/2 in place.

Exactly :)

Thanks for your help. I gotta get a GoPro because I want to make a video channel of building a Mustang from scratch. 

[Viperpete 38]

First video!

 

https://youtu.be/GsCi5wPmbwk

[aslanefe 342]

The frame you made for the old shell, did you make it to fit the old car or did you check the measurements? If you made it to fit the old car, it may not be square/correct as with that much rust/metal missing, your old shell might have been twisted/out of measurement. And if you use that frame as reference/guide for your new side assemblies, you will build a twisted/out of measurement car. I would double/triple check diagonal, cross, side etc measurements for the side frames before I weld them.

[aslanefe 342]

One more thing, if it took that much weight to get the passenger side to X 6 1/2, there may be too much spring back in that area now. I would cut the support you welded on the table (just the passenger spring front support), bend that side (use the come along) and get the X 6 1/2 right without putting all that weight and your friend then weld the support back.

[Viperpete 38]

8 hours ago, aslanefe said:

One more thing, if it took that much weight to get the passenger side to X 6 1/2, there may be too much spring back in that area now. I would cut the support you welded on the table (just the passenger spring front support), bend that side (use the come along) and get the X 6 1/2 right without putting all that weight and your friend then weld the support back.

How do I bend it?

[aslanefe 342]

You need to cut the brace at right rear aft (11 3/16 one) and remove the brace. Now the right rear will be shorter than 11 3/16. put a jack between the table and rear of the right rear frame. Jack the frame up to 11 1/2 (instead of 11 3/16). remove the jack and measure to see if it is 11 3/16 or not (it will spring back when you remove the jack);  If it is still shorter than 11 3/16, jack it up to 11 3/4 and remove the jack, measure again if it is 1 3/16 or not. You need to bend it up or down a little more than needed to account for spring back of the metal so when the jack/force is removed, you get the dimension you want, the For future reference, you should always set your datum lines (X-6 and X-6 1/2) first and other dimensions (like 11 3/16) later.

[Viperpete 38]

I'm not following where or what specifically you are asking me to cut. Can't I just use the ratchet strap or come along to pull the X6.5" passenger side down further than needed and see if it stays there? Or if it goes up less?

[Viperpete 38]

2 hours ago, aslanefe said:

You need to cut the brace at right rear aft (11 3/16 one) and remove the brace. Now the right rear will be shorter than 11 3/16. put a jack between the table and rear of the right rear frame. Jack the frame up to 11 1/2 (instead of 11 3/16). remove the jack and measure to see if it is 11 3/16 or not (it will spring back when you remove the jack);  If it is still shorter than 11 3/16, jack it up to 11 3/4 and remove the jack, measure again if it is 1 3/16 or not. You need to bend it up or down a little more than needed to account for spring back of the metal so when the jack/force is removed, you get the dimension you want, the For future reference, you should always set your datum lines (X-6 and X-6 1/2) first and other dimensions (like 11 3/16) later.

Not needed. I pulled the bolt out and the floor only went back up 1/3 inch or so. Having it pulled down the last few days has bent it almost into perfect shape. I've pulled it down about 1/2" past the hole using a ratchet strap and a lift bolt hole and am gonna give it a few days and see what happens. Going out of town so its a good time to try this. 

[Viperpete 38]

Checked it today. Only 1/4" off!!!! Another day should do it :)

[Cantedvalve 128]

Just wait until I start posting pics of the one my son and I are restoring...

[Viperpete 38]

2 hours ago, Cantedvalve said:

Just wait until I start posting pics of the one my son and I are restoring...

sweet! ya send me the link 

[Viperpete 38]

Sorry I haven't posted much. Been busy! Quite a bit of work has been done. MTF frame is in. Floor has been leveled and I've been getting the panels ready for test fitting. Made some changes here and there based on some MTF advice. He's really been great helping me with the project.  Here are 2 videos that show what I've been doing along with some pics of a weird gap I'm dealing with. Nothing has been welded into place as of right now other than the MTF frame. The floor pan assembly is screwed to the firewall and MTF frame for now.

 

 

 

https://youtu.be/JdgtnvJN4G0

 

 

 

https://youtu.be/0R7pTS33rBI

 

 

 

I painted the insides of the outer rockers after watching some Peterson restoration videos. They are coated with weld-thru primer but honestly that stuff doesn't seem very good. There's already some rust forming on my floor pan assembly. I bought a pneumatic punch and man that thing is a godsend. Saves to much time instead of drilling out all those holes. Couldn't use it everywhere but definitely a huge time/energy saver. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's the gap. Not sure what's going on here. Rockers are level both sides but the passenger side is 3/4" too low. Maybe its a bad firewall? Don't know because the upper and lower cowl fit to it pretty nicely. Must be something i've done incorrectly. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also,

 

What happens with these gaps on the sides? Do the torque boxes cover them? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And I bought these quarter panel braces but have no idea where they go...

 

 

[aslanefe 342]

The box says inner quarter structure braces conv 69-70, so they are used on convertables. 

Weld does not stick good to weld through primer, you might want to mark the punched holes and remove the weld through primer on those spots for better/easier plug welds.

[Viperpete 38]

58 minutes ago, aslanefe said:

The box says inner quarter structure braces conv 69-70, so they are used on convertables. 

Weld does not stick good to weld through primer, you might want to mark the punched holes and remove the weld through primer on those spots for better/easier plug welds.

I thought I read somewhere that they can be used on the fastbacks for increased rigidity. I was planning on wire/wheeling all areas before welding :)

[aslanefe 342]

46 minutes ago, Viperpete said:

I thought I read somewhere that they can be used on the fastbacks for increased rigidity. I was planning on wire/wheeling all areas before welding :)

I bet you read about installing vert inner rockers.

[Viperpete 38]

12 hours ago, aslanefe said:

I bet you read about installing vert inner rockers.

Hmmm maybe? I can't remember honestly. So these will not work on a fastback right?

[aslanefe 342]

2 hours ago, Viperpete said:

Hmmm maybe? I can't remember honestly. So these will not work on a fastback right?

I have not compared my vert and fastback to see if they will work or to have an opinion on possible benefits of them on a fastback. 

[Viperpete 38]

So I figured that now was a good a time as any to get that brace I made for the 69' into the new shell and see how things look. I had to cut it in 2 pieces because there was no way to remove it from the car. First I made an adapter for it using bolts/nuts and some square stock/angle iron so that I could easily get it back to the original shape easily and take it apart if needed. The brace bolted to the side assembles perfectly. That reassures me greatly. That means that the door openings, floor pan width and height are the same as a factory car. The gap at the firewall still remains. Not sure what to do about that other than get another one. I don't have anything to compare it to. It seems unlikely that the passenger side assembly and the outer side cowl would both be "off" equally to make that large gap. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Midlife 831]

Welcome to the world of reality vice precision engineering.

[Viperpete 38]

11 hours ago, Midlife said:

Welcome to the world of reality vice precision engineering.

I don't know what that is? lol

[potato 10]

I would start trying to clamp up other parts of the car.  If you have a fender, see how well it fits with what you have there on the passenger side.  Same with a windshield or the windshield trim and inner fenders.  That will help you figure out which pieces you have are out of spec or hopefully just assembled wrong.

Clamp or cleco as much of the car together as possible.  If you can get it to the point where even the outside panels are fitting together well, then take a bunch of layers off and start working your way from the inside out replacing the clecos with spot welds.

[Viperpete 38]

2 hours ago, potato said:

I would start trying to clamp up other parts of the car.  If you have a fender, see how well it fits with what you have there on the passenger side.  Same with a windshield or the windshield trim and inner fenders.  That will help you figure out which pieces you have are out of spec or hopefully just assembled wrong.

Clamp or cleco as much of the car together as possible.  If you can get it to the point where even the outside panels are fitting together well, then take a bunch of layers off and start working your way from the inside out replacing the clecos with spot welds.

Hmmm. Ok i'll try experimenting a little bit. 

[aslanefe 342]

Those cowl sides should be mirror image of each other. Remove them and butt them up together to see if they match. If they do, you have a problem somewhere else.

[Viperpete 38]

2 hours ago, aslanefe said:

Those cowl sides should be mirror image of each other. Remove them and butt them up together to see if they match. If they do, you have a problem somewhere else.

OK will do! 

I honestly think that the firewall was just stamped poorly. I went to NPD today to see if they had one that I could measure but they didn't. They are getting one in for me next week. From the bottom of the rocker to the top of the firewall corner is 21.5" on both sides on the original car. On the new firewall its 21.5" on the drivers side and 22.5" on the passengers side. That's where the gap is. I think its just a bad firewall. 

[Viperpete 38]

Nice update!

 

So I had a flash of inspiration the other day.  

 

I unscrewed the firewall from the passenger side of the floor pan and used some ratchet straps to first pull the floorpan downward, then and used another 2 straps to get it positioned to where it looked right and level. I am happy to report that it is positioned really well now! I also fitted up the rear quarters, extensions and tail light panel. There are still gaps here and there but I think so far I have been really lucky with panel fitment. It would appear that aftermarket panels do fit well to each other. I have to take pics, but I also was able to fit the piece that goes between the back glass and the trunk. I used the original 69' for measurements and got it really spot on. Will post pics of that later.