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Hello all, I recently decided to re-do my 1969 Gauge Cluster lights (no-tac). I had installed LED lights years ago, and, overtime, I had a few lights that had spotty and intermittent connections and the rattle of the engine combined with LA streets would turn them on and off. Once I pulled the stock PCB (dated Nov 1968!) I saw that the gold/copper "ring" for several of the light sockets were quite worn down and likely the culprit of my one or two flickering lights. ** To clarify, all dash lights work - just one or two goes out occasionally, but a *tap tap* to the cluster will illuminate them again**. I figured a CJPony parts PCB (printed circuit board) would be a nice upgrade and peace of mind for night driving, but, to my surprise, after the install most of the lights stopped working all together! This prompted a thorough check of all connections with a multimeter, and I could find no break in the circuit on the CJPony PCB or the old PCB. I checked my wiring harness, fuse box, and tested that the wiring harness connector is receiving 12V - all good. The only variable that changed is the new PCB, which I promptly took off and re-installed the old one. Then, my well-intentioned, but electrically intermediate brain, decided I will "improve" my light socket connections with a conductive material (aluminum foil) to make up for the worn connections. After taping foil (shiny-side only) around each socket connection and a quick check with the multimeter, I verified all circuits were still operational, and I re-re-installed the old PCB into the car. Unfortunately, my aluminum trick was only partially successful, and I still had some bulbs stay dark and some flicker with movement of the cluster. MY QUESTION(s): Any thoughts/ideas as to why the CJPony PCB barely worked at all? Also, has anyone ever "re-invigorated" the light socket connections with success? Perhaps electrical grease or polishing? For an "incandescent" look, I am using these LED bulbs without any colored diffusers, all of which have been tested and proven to work. Pictures of the old, new, and "improved" old PCB. drive-download-20201127T031547Z-001.zip

I have a centroid fuel gauge sending unit. The manual tells me I need to power my stock fuel gauge with constant 5 volt power instead of the pulsing 5 volts from the factory. I have an automotive 12v to 5v converter, I'm just not sure what wires to splice into to make it work. I've been unable to find a wiring diagram. Does anybody have any ideas? Note I have a tach. Thank you! :)

Hi everyone, I have a 1969 Fastback and I am installing a set of autometer gauges to replace the worn out original set, including adding a tach. The gauges that I am using are the American Muscle set and include: Voltmeter, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, Fuel Level, Speedo and Tach. I am running into all sorts of problems and could use some help. I am currently using "Painless Performance #30302" wiring harness for easy connections (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30302) and I am having problems, any input here would be greatly appreciated. Here's my list of problems; 1. Programmable fuel level seems to be most accurate on the GM setting for some reason, not really an issue just super annoying. 2. Voltmeter has no reading. 3. Dash lights. !@#$ing Dash Lights. ok, so the voltmeter and oil pressure lights are always on. When the car is not running but the headlights are on all the gauges but the voltmeter and oil pressure are lit up. With the car running and the lights on all the gauges stop working completely. This is my biggest issue I am worried that I am damaging something and need it fixed asap. The painless wiring harness set that I'm using has all the wires for the gauges running together, so 1 ground, 1 power etc. Should I pull this thing out and light it on fire and run individual wires or can this setup still work? If I pull it out can I run all the instrument lights to one wire and wire it to the headlight switch? Also, if anyone has a diagram regarding the stock colored wires and their individual purpose that could be a big help, all the diagrams I have located don't agree on colors, if anyone has a link it would be greatly appreciated.