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Yesterday I picked up a 1969 coupe. The best way to describe this car is it has been somebody else's project car. Its a base model 69 coupe. There are no power windows or power seats. A previous owner has swapped the 200CID for a 302 along with the usual things like aftermarket distributor, sensors, sending units. Most of the electronic things on the car work as expected. There are some things that are not working and some things that are just plane working wrong. For example, some of the headlights dont light up, one of the blinkers in the hood doesn't blink, and when you pull the knob to turn on the headlights, it also turns on the heater blower. I need to address the electrical in this car. I have not come across a really great and comprehensive wiring diagram. I have a bunch of ford shop manuals covering 1969, but they don't have much in the way about wiring. Is there a good resource out there for a complete wiring diagram that is easy to follow for the 1969 mustangs? And while looking into this, I am also considering trying one of those all-in-one kits to rewire the entire car. I see a couple different ones on the market. Is one of them better than the other? I see some of them say they only work with the aftermarket 1-wire alternator and only works with aftermarket ignitions. I think I would prefer one that worked with the stock configuration of the car and then let me pick and choose if I want to run a 1-wire alternator or MSD ignition box. Do you guys have any input to which complete wiring harnesses to get and which to avoid? Also, I have never rewired the entire car with one of these complete harnesses. I understand the general theory behind it. When it comes to the 1969 mustang, how far do you have to take the car apart to rewire it? Do you have to pretty much strip everything out of the entire dash? I will probably skip pulling the headliner out just to swap the dome light. I'd splice the existing wire into the new harness.

I think I've asked these questions before but it was a long time ago and I can't find it. When I took my car apart there was some strange wiring splices in my harnesses for the electric choke. I replaced the gauge harness that connects to the oil pressure, temperature, and coil. There are no splices in it now. 1. Where do I connect my carb's electric choke so that it only gets power in the key's run position? After I get the car running with points and the stock coil I will replace them with a pertronix distributor and flamethrower coil. I know I need to bypass the pink resistor wire in the ignition. I've heard of some people using a relay that is activated by the pink wire to pass 12V to the coil. 2. What is the best way to connect the flamethrower coil to 12V? Thanks

When I turn my windshield wipers on, they start and run just fine, but, they will not turn off. I have to remove the battery terminal and they will stop. Then when I turn them back on the same thing happens. They start and won't stop. Help!!!! Dan

Hey all, Recently my car has been dying while driving it. One minute it is fine and the next no power whatsoever. I end up pulling off the side of the road and it will start up again but it runs really rough for the first few seconds and I have to pump the gas a bunch to get it going. I think the electrical might be grounding out somewhere causing the sudden stall. The battery also dies sometimes when it sits for a day or so. This could also be a carb issue, but I do not smell excessive gas when I pop the hood and it doesn't sputter or anything to indicate not enough gas before. I was thinking maybe the fuel filter or pump. I could use some help as I am still learning. Also, pictures of ground locations would be very helpful so I can clean them up and be sure they are all making good contact. Thank you in advance. Thomas

Hi all, Standard 302 motor. No A/c. Power steering. Everything on the car is pretty stock. Recently I have been having some strange things happen. First, my batter is not holding a charge very well. I will usually get one solid crank at the starter in the mornings and if she doesn't start I have to jump it. I haven't done much testing on this as it just started happening this week and I am back to school so my life is basically over. I realized my battery plate is rusted and the holding block allows it move around some could the terminal touching the frame from it sliding around cause a drain? Second, my car will randomly just die. It will be driving fine, sounds normal, gages all read ok and then suddenly no power at all. This has happened twice in maybe 4 months. Everytime I go to start the car again I have to hold the gas pedal to the floor to get enough gas for the thing to start. And then it runs rough for a few seconds and sounds good again. Is this a carb issue? Needle getting stuck? Third, when my engine gets hot is sounds like one of the cylinders may be missing every now and then. How do I figure out i this is the issue? Compression test? I am new to working on cars but have a general knowledge and am handy. Any help would be appreciated.

Hello to all, I have the direct fit performance gauges. The issue is my high beam indicator (led) is lit through the tach. When the car is running and I hit my high beam the tach needle will jump up to 3500 and then settle at 1500. The engine will never rev during this even though the tach indicates this. I have it wired up as instructed. Any ideas? Pigbait69

Just got done installing an "EZ wiring harness" in my 1969 mustang. I went to start the car and check to make sure everything worked. When I turned the key to run position I could smell smoke and noticed smoke coming from behind my gauge cluster. I immediately turned the key off and disconnected the battery. Upon further investigation I found melted electrical tape which I used to wrap the wires. I believe it's from the gauge power wire which comes off the same line as the coil wire. I checked my wiring diagram and it kinda looks like there should be a resistor in the gauge power line. Any ideas?