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Showing results for tags 'carburetor'.
Found 7 results
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Hello, I have a 1969 fastback and recently I put in a 302 bored .30 over, B cam, roller pedestal rockers, and a Holley carb with the number L6R1B (Not sure on the CFM size, assuming 600) and that is connected to a T5 Ford Racing Transmission and Ford 9" with 3.73 gears. Sorry for all the information but I am trying to narrow it down since I know all those questions will be asked anyway. The current carburetor is a regular $320 one from Autozone and recently it has been studdering under mid RPM throttle hits. That is not the question that I am wondering, I am wondering what the best carburetor setup would be for this car with the given info and that it is also my daily with mostly city driving and a decent amount of short distance highway. I know this might sound redundant but I want to have the best MPG's and also the most power possible. I would rather sacrifice the MPG part of course. Thanks to everyone in advance as I am new to the forum but not new to the daily driven classic car struggle!
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I think I've asked these questions before but it was a long time ago and I can't find it. When I took my car apart there was some strange wiring splices in my harnesses for the electric choke. I replaced the gauge harness that connects to the oil pressure, temperature, and coil. There are no splices in it now. 1. Where do I connect my carb's electric choke so that it only gets power in the key's run position? After I get the car running with points and the stock coil I will replace them with a pertronix distributor and flamethrower coil. I know I need to bypass the pink resistor wire in the ignition. I've heard of some people using a relay that is activated by the pink wire to pass 12V to the coil. 2. What is the best way to connect the flamethrower coil to 12V? Thanks
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So I'm days away from rebuilding my engine. 351W I'm going to put a 400hp edelbrock top end kit in bored 30 and redo the bottom end. I bought a 650 Holley carb a little over half a year ago. Should I just use that or put a FiTech EFI/Holley EFI on this? I've heard great things about the Fitech and to buy it before Holley buys them out. I've heard that people have a hard time tuning on them at first. Has anyone had experience with this?
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Hi guys, I've been looking at this site for a while and just decided to sign up. I've been having problems getting my car to run while in gear or in idle sometimes as well. The motor is a 331 stroker with tri y headers, weiand intake, holley 4160, procomp heads (yeah I know), an edelbrock 351 cam, and msd box (not the 6al) The car hasn't been started in about 3 months and during that time I put in a new gas tank, and changed the pcv system to allow use of a breather. I have ford racing slant valve covers with a breather and a oil cap feeding to the carb on the other side. Before it ran fine. I've tried to adjust the idle mixture screws and the idle speed screws but to no avail. It idles fine above 1000, but lower it and it wants to die. Put it in gear and it starts choking right away. I was wondering if I should get a rebuild kit and try that as dust may have fallen in the barrels, and I know I have a carb to msnifolf leak as the rpms shoot up when spraying around the base of the carb. Any ideas are welcome! I'm not too familiar with carbs and this is my first one. Thanks
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Hey all, 69 coupe. 302 w/o AC I am having some trouble with my PCV set up. I have the PCV running from the carb spacer to the passanger cover. When I try to start the car it just tries to turn over endlessly. Pumping the gas does not put any into the carb. I poured some gas in the carb and it will start but idles really really high. Next I capped the PCV valve and the car starts right up. This leads me to believe it is not the fuel filters or pump. Has to be the PCV. I do not understand how the PCV can prevent the carb from getting gas. I can post some pictures later if that would help solve my issue. Thanks!
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Cleaned internally and sandblasted externally. This carb is for a manual trans car. Date code is 1965. No tag. All initial settings completed properly. Correct Autolite choke themostat cover. I bought this for my car, but discovered I needed a throttle shaft, and all I had was one for a manual. Comes with new base gasket and instruction/spec sheet. $125 plus shipping. Pics upon request. Looks just like a 2100! -
Hi all, newbie here, but not to mustangs. Don't let the user name confuse you! I have a 69 automatic coupe with the 302, and I need to know what the correct carb is for this engine. The previous owner put a rebuild from pep boys on it, and though it does appear to be a 2100, it's a 1.33 venturi size. I don't have a carb tag to go by. I'm fairly sure that is for a big block, or at least a bigger small block. The car is bone stock, so I don't need more carburetion, and I'm only getting 9-10mpg with it like it is. So can anyone tell me what the proper venturi size is, and what date or other code(s) I should be looking for (and where to look) as I hunt for a replacement? Also, if you have a properly running same powered mustang, what sort of mileage do you get? Not sure what I should actually be looking for, but I think 9-10 is not it.
