Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'brakes'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Technical, General Discussion, and Project Progress
    • 1969-70 Technical Forum
    • The Garage
    • Project Progress Forum
  • How to's, Upcoming Events, and Vendor Information
    • Upcoming Events
    • How to's
    • All mustang products and vendors
  • Photochop, Video, and Media
    • Mustang Video and Misc Video
    • Photochop Forum
  • Classifieds
    • Cars for Sale / Wanted
    • Parts for Sale / Wanted
  • Members Only


  • Community Calendar

Product Groups

  • Subscriptions

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL











Found 10 results

  1. Glad to see a forum dedicated to these Mustangs...... I recently decided to do a complete front brake job on my '69 Mustang Fastback with a 302. I got rebuilt calipers, new rotors (with races preinstalled), pads, and bearings. I packed the inner and outer wheel bearings with grease and tightened the spindle nut. While installing the calipers with the pads attached then tightening the bolts I noticed the outer pad was snug and rubbing against the rotor. The inner pad since the caliper was fully retracted had ample space. I also noticed that the spindle nut barely left any room to put the entire cotter pin in, I could only get half of the pin in. Mind you I purchased all of these parts from my local NAPA store. Here is what I believe is the problem..... The inner and outer races inside both rotors are too far apart from each other, both inner and outer races are seated up against their respective lips so they cannot go any deeper. This is true for both the old and new replacement rotors. I would think an extra 2mm in on both races would solve the problem. The distance between both races is just under 2 inches, I'm guessing 1 7/8. The bearings do seat properly into the races so those pieces appear to match. I'm assuming I need to get rotors that are more precise. I wish I could get specs on various rotors with the correct spacing measurement or know what the correct number should be. The owner before me said the spindles are correct and were never replaced. I will buy whatever I need to get this going if someone could tell me where to go I would appreciate it. Thanks PK
  2. Trying to sort out the various options for my new power brake booster. Looking for some advice and lessons learned, and recommendations. My car is an original power brake car with the stock brake pedal support and power brake pedal. I am using 2004 Cobra disc brakes front and rear. I have a 351W, and using a Borgeson power steering upgrade. I would like a reduced size booster if possible (7"). I am ok with running an aftermarket master cylinder, proportioning valve and brake distribution block, and making new brake lines. I would prefer to have the block/valve assembly mounted on the master cylinder, rather than bolted to the fenderwell. Any help would be appreciated...
  3. Hi all, Upgraded to front disks from a 1978 Granada. The car brakes fine. Thought I was going to get just a little bit more shorter stopping distance so I'm thinking the brake distribution block may not be correct. Here's a pic of how it's set up. Could I please have some feedback? The valve's number is C8ZA-2B257-M All the best & THANK YOU! Paul
  4. Hello everyone! looking to upgrade to disk rear brakes on my 8" rear end. Has anyone had a good experience with a specific conversion rear drum-to-disk kit? SSBC, Summit, Auto City Classics?? I already have a SSBC front disk conversion kit installed with booster and Master Cylinder. I have the original 1969 Mustang rims (see pic) and many sites say that they won't fit with the 14" wheels. Thanks for any offered help!
  5. Hi, would like to upgrade my front 1978 Granada disk rotors to a drilled & slotted pair. Don't know which to choose from......the are soooo many (Hart, V1Specs, StopTech, ChromeBrakes, C brakes ecc ecc ecc). Does anyone here have a pair on their 69/70 Mustang? what would you recommend? Thanks for all your input and thoughts! Paul
  6. k9usmc

    Donor swap

    Looking to swap front suspension and brakes with one that has disc brakes better steering. any suggestions one what to look for in a donor car?
  7. New here and started on a rebuild of 69 coupe inherited from my sister. Bought in 1970 in LA and has been in family for 46 yrs. I have already started and am looking for recomendations on brakes, shifter and AC....this is where I'm at. 1969 Coupe, 302 2V , original maybe 105,000 miles, C4 Auto, Power Steering NO AC 2.79 rear Exterior body (Candy Red) is in very good shape because it has spent last 15 yrs garage and it statred as a CA )San Jose) car before moving to NY for 15+ yrs. Rust is limited to drivers floor pan, torque box, toe kick and partial frame rail. Passenger side toe kick. Door rust bubbles only at bottom outside edge at drain holes. rear frame spring perches a little. It appears the right rear quarter was replaced in 80's after side rear hit front left fender maybe at factory or by dealer. Body is otherwise solid. Here's what I have started and bought so far to make this a street rod and comfortable driver to be left to my nephew (sisters son) some day. Edelbrock Top End Performance RPM kit # 2091 (Alum Heads,Intake,Cam, lifters Thunder AVS 650 cfm elec choke Edelbrock 1.6 Roller lifters (my sister loved red....they look like jewelry) Edelbrock Water Pump Edelbrock Fuel Pump Orig short block now bored .30 over and stroke to 331, compression goal 9.5 - 10 Lentech AOD trany with OD Electric lockout Shaker Scoop Air assembly intake (Functional for cold air) Global West Coilover front suspension with Viking 2 way adj shocks Global West 1" front sway bar Viking 2 way adj rear shocks (similar to QA shocks) New rear leaf springs Tru trac Yukon rear with 3.55 Richmond gears (kept 8" rear) Borgeson Power steering box & Pump Body is at shop getting front floors cut out and replaced along with Global West frame connectors being installed. Car will be painted 2 tone, Bottom have a metalic candy red, top a contrasting Silver (?).....looking to enhance the roof line sloop. Shelby Trunk lid and rocker end extentions for lip (may cut down 1") and Shelby side scoops. Progress: Engine goes on dino next week, body goes for soda blasting Interior should start in April. Need help of Brakes....Disc front & back ? Wilwood ? other ? Should I change the original booster and master cylinder ? B&M Shifters: Quick Silver or Megar models...need Button for OD cutout. Plan is to modify from dash for a doubly din AV/Nav/rear cam radio where the factory original AC vent would normally go. Also changing interior color from Black to a Sand or Beige or Gray color. Please let me know your experiences with the brakes, shifters and interiors. Thanks Tom
  8. Guys, Ive for the suspension broken all the way down, brake system is out and I am refurbishing the calipers. I've got them all cleaned up and wire brushed. Question is should I paint these? I'm wondering if I should paint them standard ford blue or black, or leave them natural? I know they will rust some if I do nothing, so I'd prefer to get them in best possible shape before they go back in. What's the right thing to do? I like to go original when I can, but I am not hard over about it - and I will change things when I think the look is better. Thanks for your inputs... Jay
  9. All, I am in the midst of restoring my 69 coupe, and my 14 yr old son has been having a great time helping me. So much so that he began to want to have his "own" car (I kept telling him he wasn't stealing my baby..) As fortune would have it, a beautiful 71 coupe popped up for sale locally. Great shape, good driver, and many,many parts in common with my 69. So - being the "coolest dad ever", I snatched up the vehicle, and well now I am wanting to make this the safest mustang ever when he starts driving next year. So far, on suspension we have replaced front bearings, front strut bushings, both lower control arms including ball joints, and all 4 shocks. We also got a good alignment. We replaced the master cylinder and already have front disc brakes, which now has good hard pedal. I'm considering putting disc brakes on the back, but it's a $500 upgrade, and frankly, the current system can lock em up, so I'm not sure how much of an improvement that is for the money. I'm not afraid of the work however - looks like it would be fun. I want to put a great set of shoulder belts in (it has some old stock shoulder straps -no retractor- which clip into the lap belt) , but don't know what kind to get. It's got the tiny chrome round bullet mirrors, which I would like to replace with something a little larger. But what else? How can I make this car safer for my son? The coolest dad would quickly turn into the saddest dad if his kid gets hurt in this car. The car starts/runs great, steering has very little slack, and the braking is smooth/straight. I'd like to hear all your ideas for safety improvements. Aftermarket and all. Thanks for the help! Jay
  10. Hello, I have a 69 Mach 1, original a all manual drum brake car. Now I have mounted new spindles and converted into front discs. Including booster and a new SSBC distribution block. For several reason I ended up mounting the distribution block rather high up on the inner fender (just below my hood hinges), which means my inlet ports on the distribution block is higher up than the outlets from the master cylinder. Can this cause any problems (air in the system, difficulties bleedign or so...?) The pipes from the master cylinder goes up approx 1,5", then flats out and goes down about 3/4 inch down to the dist. block. Still I have not filled it with fluid, but I was hoping I could keep it like this, but would like to know if it is good or not... Any suggestions ?
  • Create New...