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Found 7 results

  1. I'm currently running a Holley 670 cfm Street Avenger Carb with Electric Choke for my 408 Windsor stroker. I'm strongly considering an upgrade to EFI and I've been trying to do research on ones to avoid and all of the items that are required to be done. The FI Tech Fuel Injection system appears to show up a good bit during research with good reviews. Does anyone have advice on ones to avoid, any issues, or recommendations for EFI upgrade?
  2. Hello, I have a 1969 fastback and recently I put in a 302 bored .30 over, B cam, roller pedestal rockers, and a Holley carb with the number L6R1B (Not sure on the CFM size, assuming 600) and that is connected to a T5 Ford Racing Transmission and Ford 9" with 3.73 gears. Sorry for all the information but I am trying to narrow it down since I know all those questions will be asked anyway. The current carburetor is a regular $320 one from Autozone and recently it has been studdering under mid RPM throttle hits. That is not the question that I am wondering, I am wondering what the best carburetor setup would be for this car with the given info and that it is also my daily with mostly city driving and a decent amount of short distance highway. I know this might sound redundant but I want to have the best MPG's and also the most power possible. I would rather sacrifice the MPG part of course. Thanks to everyone in advance as I am new to the forum but not new to the daily driven classic car struggle!
  3. So I'm days away from rebuilding my engine. 351W I'm going to put a 400hp edelbrock top end kit in bored 30 and redo the bottom end. I bought a 650 Holley carb a little over half a year ago. Should I just use that or put a FiTech EFI/Holley EFI on this? I've heard great things about the Fitech and to buy it before Holley buys them out. I've heard that people have a hard time tuning on them at first. Has anyone had experience with this?
  4. excellent running Edelbrock thunder carb with electric choke 650cfm on weekend driver for about 10-12k miles currently running on 331 stroker thats putting 392 at the wheels. has fuel inlet,pressure gauge, and regulator with it. all in working order also have new 1/2 laminate spacer-never used $25.00
  5. I'm at wit's end troubleshooting an issue. It started as stalling at idle speeds, only after the engine was hot. In the troubleshooting process, I'm noticing that the timing changes based on engine speed. (Yes, I've pulled the vaccum advance, and plugged the vacuum line) First, refresh my memory please: This isn't normal, is it? I have a pertronix ignition module under the cap. Also, does anyone have any initial choke settings? I have no idea at this point, where to set the choke. I'd like to leave it out of the equation, if possible, but it has a huge effect on engine idle speed. the last time I checked (last year) I had good vaccuum, very consistent. (can't recall the exact value) ANY help appreciated. -Tom
  6. Title basically says it all. I have a stock 302 C-4 combo. When I first start the car up everything is smooth and runs great but after it gets up to running temperature it sounds like one cylinder begins to miss. I checked the spark plugs yesterday and they look good. I checked the points gap and that looked ok too. The rotor cap looked like it was only hitting the front edge, which would indicate timing? I played with that a bit adjusting it a few degrees up and down (missing my timing indicator) and that didn't help. I'm thinking at this point it may be bad points? Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks! -Thomas
  7. Hi, I purchased a 1969 mustang grande with the 250 inline 6 motor. everytime I start it the carb catches on fire, the firing order is in the right postion and i have adjusted the timing of the distributor in every way imaginable to try and get it to stop. The Valves were done and adjusted and the head was surfaced there where no cracks in it. The headgasket was also changed when this was done and the Carb was also rebuilt. any suggestions? Thank You in advance
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