fvike

Mike and I got the trunk and quarter extensions mounted to verify fit of all parts in back. Getting close to being ready to final weld back together!

Thanks guys. I've installed the battery cables into the car, with a connector thru the firewall. Pretty straightforward stuff, but I did have to remove the heater again to get to the corner where I decided to put the bulkhead connector. Figured I had to get that job done before I put the dash back in.



I also received my Fuelsafe 22 gallon Mustang fuel cell this week. It is a vital component in my view to keep these cars safe. Also all race track activity in Norway requires a rear firewall between the fuel tank and the passenger compartment. Which the Mustang don't have. Hence a FIA approved Fuel Cell. I want to use my car on the occasional track day.

Just looked at my spare 70 steering column and steering wheel; no flat spots or missing teeth on the shaft or steering wheel. I could mount the steering wheel any orientation I want on the shaft.

Celebrating the 50th birthday of my mustang today. I purchased it over 10 years ago from Oregon and shipped it to Australia where it’s had a well deserved restoration. I hope I look this good when I turn 50 in a couple of years lol.
 

The Centreforce  weights are there to increase the diaphram clamping force at higher r.p.m, centrifugal force tends to throw the weights outwards at higher speeds increasing the pressure the diaphram spring applies to the clutch plate.
Best of both worlds, allows for reduced pedal pressure at low rpm with increased clamping force at higher rpm.
I use a Centreforce DF on mine, had no issues, works great.

18 months later Car is on the ground with an engine and transmission in it, on four wheels and tires, for the first time in 25 years.    Headed to mikes soon for exhaust and some other work 
 

Time for an update, 
had tossed up strut or tubular front end?  Decided on the rrs struts and rack and pinion, phase two brakes, modified the shock towers, made up the engine mounts, fitted engine and transmission, fitted new canton oil pan, trans mount is next

I installed all my fuses and powered up my electrical system today for the first time.  No sparks, smoke, fires, or blow fuses.
I tested a few things like my manual over-ride for my PWM fan controller.  Worked perfectly.
I did voltage checks at all my power points in the system, and all was good.
I decided to see if the car would crank over.
This is what happened.
 
 
IMG_4214.MOV

I'm a bit back and forth on the things I work on, depending on what parts I need. I'm missing a few connectors to get the harness done, but I did get my new crank hub (for the pulley) on friday. I had to get a shorter one, because the radiator and fans took up more real estate than the previous setup. So Now I got all the pulleys moved back about .625 I think it was. I used to run  a spacer inside the water pump pulley, so luckily, I had room to work with. The PS pump and Alternator was as easy as to remove spacers. on the bolts to the cylinder heads. All this mean that I could install the radiator. The clearance to the alternator pulley isn't much, but enough.


I should paint those screws and clips on the fan shroud black.

The Upper radiator hose was a bit tricky, as the radiator is a lot bigger than stock. '69 351W upper hose wouldn't fit. Not the 24" rad hose or the 20" rad hose. But The '70 351C upper hose did fit - after a bit of trimming. I took off almost 1-1/2 inch at the rad end. Then a 1/2 inch at the termostat housing end to get it to clear under the TCP export brace.


 
I also need to post this picture of my Holley 750 Ultra XP, just because! 

If you're ever going to the track or strip, they're pretty much mandated.

If you're ever going to the track or strip, they're pretty much mandated.

As I mentioned on another tread, the AAW harness do not have the heater fan speed control harness in it, just the power supply for it. So I sourced that from my original Ford harness, first just to grab the connectors, but I found the wires so good and flexible that I decided to use them. After a little bit of cleaning, they looked mint!


 
Put the right connector with a locking tab on the backside on the power supply, and replaced the old yellow wire.



 
The interior harness is 99% done now. Have just a few loose ends, but routing is done. The orange and blue wires is way to long, but I think I will just loop them inside the harness. OEMs does that too sometimes. Next thing up is to wire up the firewall bulkhead connector. Then  do the front harness, before testing everything before I tape it all up.

This is a mustang part. It clips to the gage cluster to take up the gap between the colum and the gage cluster. If you need a picture installed let me know.

Yes, I have those pins.  They are still commercially available from electronic supply houses, but buying only a dozen or so from them will be expensive due to shipping!  I can pop them in a standard envelope for less.  Be aware that you need a special crimping tool, though...and crimping double wires is almost impossible with hand tools.
 

Crappy grille moldings challange accepted! Come at me bro! 

The POS units is Corvex Mouldnings that I got from CJ Pony Parts. Let's just say I buy all my Mustang stuff from NPD now. I ended up getting NOS moldings from ebay. They have some shelf wear, but they fit perfect! A thorough polish will make them like new.

Thanks again Guys and yes fvike it is trilling to drive it for the first time. Then put it back in the garage and start fixing problems. Been driving it now for about 2 years and fixing a few problems along the way. Just finished up the A/C  a few weeks ago.  Waited a little over 2 months for delivery on the console. All and all tho it hasn't been to bad. Time to enjoy now.
 

I know 70 hood scheme, what can I say I just like the 70 strips. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Well, my old Griffin direct-fit was to high. I had to dent my hood to clear the cap. Perhaps the Griffin exact-fit is better in that regard. I don't know.

fvike, 
  I can not help you with the door panel lights my Coupe has the standard interior. As far as the ignition switch light I used one of the spare gray wires (8B thru 8F) from the AAW dash lamp feeds that I did not use that I plugged in to for power for the ignition switch light. It is on page #-5, 4th line down of the installation instructions.  I hope that helps you out.
Mike.
 

Exactly. And that is a good thing. You get what you pay for. KYBs are shocks that will do on any car, but isn't great for any car. I cannot think of any situation where you would want to put $40 shocks on your car, especially on your pride and joy.

or remove the kick panel and push it out from the back side.

Aslanefe,
Thanks for a great advice!
I’ll arrange that asap. I wonder why I did not see that myself...
The front end geometry is just amazing. Best I ever had on my car in 22 years. It was done by a local “front end voodoo wizard”, back where I was in NW FL. Vannoy’s Tires was the name of that shop. Done 3 years ago and still feels amazing. Car drives in a straight line, whatever the speed is.
I shouldn’t say this, but I hit 140 mph on the highway this weekend, to give the motor a little “shake” and get the pipes fresh and clean. Had a passenger with me who couldn’t believe we were that fast. Felt like 90-100, no more.
I also cleaned it today. First time I did the engine bay, since the car was restored (11k miles now).
God, I love that car!!
G
 

I once had a bad lifter. It was a hydraulic lifter that had collapsed. I bought one new lifter of same brand and type, swapped the internals of the new one into the old lifter body, and didn't need to break it in again. That lifter is still in the engine. Might be the cheapest fix for you if it's only a lifter.
The way to identify it is to push down on the pushrod. A healthy lifter will bleed out the oil, and offer resistance. The bad one will go straight to the bottom.

Total Control Products. I had it powdercoated.