fvike

What the F... Progress??
First time powering up the AAW harness. Got head lights, tail lights, horn, heater fan, radio, interior lights and voltmeter working. Hazards only work with parking lights, so there is some gremlins yet. I have a lot of grounds to go over.  But it's huge for me to finally be able to power up stuff. It's been over a year since the last update, and I have been doing stuff, but I never did feel it was enough to make a post about. Still there is work to be done on the harness, but a big step was made today.


 

Been away from here for a while, but finished up the interior this weekend

New rack & pinion being installed. Old steering  system was totally worn out.

Morning y’all!
Sorry I haven’t been posting of late. Been fairly busy since we’ve moved back home in 2015. Lots of work for those of us in the service. Bad guys ain’t afraid of viruses, you see...
The car is going great. It now has 17.000 miles on the odometer, since it was restored back in 2014-15. Every time I get in it, I am privileged to feel like what I think they did, back in the day, when those were still available new on Ford sales lot. My wife and I are planning a road trip down the south of France in a couple weeks, for Easter. And that will be in the Mustang, of course.
I am still in touch with my hot rodding friends from the Panhandle and visited them twice since we moved back. Always very happy to go back.
A pic taken last fall in the Burgundy vineyard.
G
 

U-Pol Raptor bedliner.

I have a non-tach 69 Mach1 too, and I picked up a tach dash on eBay. I had all the gauges and tach rebuilt by Tachman and then installed it per the instructions on the Boss302.com website. Look it up under the "Tech Articles" link on that website. Was relatively easy to do and it works fine.

fvike; Thank you for posting the info w/pics.  Explains what that big ass spring is doing in there.  Thanks, Brian

Just press down the adjuster knob to release tension, and remove the cables.

Just press down the adjuster knob to release tension, and remove the cables.

Just press down the adjuster knob to release tension, and remove the cables.

checked the clutch/bell fit.  had to shorten the TOB sleeve to clear the clutch discs.  engine is finished with detail.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well to answer my own question.  Yes.  In my case a 235/60/15 tire on a 15x7 wheel w/3.75" back spacing.  Stock suspension w/KYB shocks.  Add the Shelby-Arning drop and to my surprise no fitment problem at all.  Brian

Looks like ac and tilt steering, one for each.

Here’s my other mustang, 70 Mach 1 which I’ve restored over an 8 yr period 

sweet.  Thanks for the tips.  I scored another JBA manifold gasket locally for free, so will try it first assuming perhaps it was an installation issue (?).  If it fails, I really like that soft aluminum one!  I've got a windsor, so your summit link is perfect.  Locking stage 8 bolts too, just in case.

That's a mint Mustang! Sweet sound too. 

They are fill panels for Fastbacks without fold-down rear seat.

This is my car  mounted on 315/30/19s. Borrowed wheels, so I don't remember the BS or width on the rims. No tubs, original, but modified wheel houses.



The car is not on  the ground here, but there was a wee bit clearence. When the car sat on the ground, the wheel moved outward, and the clearing was incresed. Rolled freely.

 
The modifications done to the wheelhouse is a wedge laid into the front of the wheel house. They are very narrow in the front, but are plenty big enough otherwise. The best thing about this mod is that it does not move the brackets for the rear fold down seat or interior panels. The rear seat mount is welded because my car had them offset to one side. No gap between the panel and seat on one side, and 1/2" gap on the other. You can se the top slide lock has not been touched.


Edit: Rear seatbelt anchor is still in place between the wheelhouse and frame rail. Will have to go if you tub it all the way.

Panel mount is untouched.
 

This picture shows how narrow the front of the wheel house is. There is plent of space towards the frame rail.
 
 

This is my car  mounted on 315/30/19s. Borrowed wheels, so I don't remember the BS or width on the rims. No tubs, original, but modified wheel houses.



The car is not on  the ground here, but there was a wee bit clearence. When the car sat on the ground, the wheel moved outward, and the clearing was incresed. Rolled freely.

 
The modifications done to the wheelhouse is a wedge laid into the front of the wheel house. They are very narrow in the front, but are plenty big enough otherwise. The best thing about this mod is that it does not move the brackets for the rear fold down seat or interior panels. The rear seat mount is welded because my car had them offset to one side. No gap between the panel and seat on one side, and 1/2" gap on the other. You can se the top slide lock has not been touched.


Edit: Rear seatbelt anchor is still in place between the wheelhouse and frame rail. Will have to go if you tub it all the way.

Panel mount is untouched.
 

This picture shows how narrow the front of the wheel house is. There is plent of space towards the frame rail.
 
 

Jerry,  the tandem is just an inline dual resorvair MC, and uses an proportion valve instead of a bias bar to balance out the rear brakes (so that you don't get overamplification). I do not think the tandem MC provides more force output over the dual MC. I would either go for a manual setup or a Hydraboost setup, but you'll need a new MC either way. A small bore MC for manual brakes, and a the biggest bore MC you can find for a Hydraboost. I've ran Hydraboost, and it's great, but it adds a lot of stuff to the engine bay in form of hydraulic lines, and preferebly a cooler.

I'm making progress on the Mustang again. Probably gonna make a post on my buildthread again soon. My brother's 'cuda is doing great. Got some track time a month ago, first time with the Tremec T-56 and the Edelbrock Pro-Flo EFI, so that was fun. The car worked great all day, but had powerloss at the top end. So we're chasing that one. Think the fuel pump just ran out of juice (electrical that is), so we're trying another relay with much heavier gauge wires.

I'm making progress on the Mustang again. Probably gonna make a post on my buildthread again soon. My brother's 'cuda is doing great. Got some track time a month ago, first time with the Tremec T-56 and the Edelbrock Pro-Flo EFI, so that was fun. The car worked great all day, but had powerloss at the top end. So we're chasing that one. Think the fuel pump just ran out of juice (electrical that is), so we're trying another relay with much heavier gauge wires.

Kinda got away from TexasEd's topic so let me explain ?  Just like you guys I have spent plenty of time and money getting my car back into original condition.  In my case ' the vision ' was to get it back into original 428 SCJ condition.  First I had to get it running.  Sound familiar ?  So got it running sorta alright and turned my attention to the other things.  Body and paint were good when I got the car in 2009.  Interior needed carpet and upholstery and some other odds and ends.  Suspension needed a little help as well. That accomplished it was back to the drive train.  My OE heads came with a solid lifter valve train and the SCJ rotating assembly was gone but a CJ assembly was in it's place.  I elected to leave that stuff for another day.  I have re-built or replaced just about everything else.  Clutch was a bit of a dilemma but finally got a stock 11.5" to perform as intended.  Trans has been the rock in this project.  Not needing anything.  Rebuilt the stock shifter with help and parts from Bill Heeley.  Randy Gillis put together the correct 4.30 rear end for me.  So with a car like this the ' the vision ' is getting down the quarter mile with a good time and without breaking.   Brian

I had a Griffin before my crash. It was an "Direct-fit", not the Exact-fit, so I had to dent the underside of the hood to clear the cap. I had dual slim spal fans. It cooled great, but for my rebuild I wanted a OEM appearance and a perfect fit, so I went with DeWitts with dual spal fans in a shroud. Have not run the car with that setup yet.
Only thing you need to go to the 24" radiator is  removing the drivers side block off plate, and adding the bolt in lower radiator cradles. And new hoses of course.