fvike

I use Flickr. I think the first 1000 pics are free. After that you gotta pay a annual fee, but it isn't much.

The impact was on the passenger side. But I can't remember what side had the bigger crease.

My car had those, and I suppose they are from my crash. I never had the fenders off prior to the crash, so I cannot know for sure. But the right frame rail was bent. Anyway, I decided to add Boss 429 reinforcements to strengthen it.

I used Dynamat, with the 1/4" Dynaliner on top. Same for the roof. On the floors I'm using the 1/8" Dynaliner ontop the Dynamat. Not driven the car yet, but No doubt it's going to be a lot quieter inside.

Great find, seems solid. Welcome to the site!

They have them at NPD too.. https://www.npdlink.com/1965-1973-mustang/body-exterior/body-parts-and-sheet-metal/radiator-support/custom-details?year=1969

Drain the oil and see. You'll need to do that anyway when breaking in a cam.

I've posted this before, yes. So best case, Corvex is hit-and-miss quality ?

These POS are Corvex. Threw them away, and got original ones from e-bay. They need a little polish work, but they fit perfectly.

Mike65, I'd use the tach gray wire from the Pertronix box., and connect to the AAW white #121. The Pertronix manual you linked states: This is also how I wired my tach to the Crane HI6 iginition box I have. But I haven't run it yet, so I can't verify, but I don't see how it could be wrong.

Just as jmlay and cavboy78 is saying, they are only used on '70. There's a difference in the firewall between the year models.

NPD sells a T-56 spec crossmember. https://www.npdlink.com/product/crossmember-transmission-custom-tall-version-is-made-to/199428/202467 I used it in my conversion, it builds quita a bit, but I managed to use the concole. Got some pictures in my buildtread.

It's pretty straight forward, the Wilwood kits come with all you need, except the brake lines. You'll have to order them also. I also got me some safety wire when I did mine. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mor-62280/overview/ You'll have to assemble everything, pack the bearings and such. Baer cost a little bit more, but come assembled, with the brake lines.

I think they're painted. The correct paint for 1970 is PPG DDL 9381. https://www.npdlink.com/product/stencil-kit-hood-stripe-mach-1/102576/209626

Great find, looks like a solid car. I look forward to follow you here and on insta! Greetings from across the border.

Exhaust hanger ?

The silver is a '69, the other one is hard to identify by the pictures. Refrence: https://www.mustangsteve.com/msfaqbrakepedals.html

The Flow through ventilation has one more upside. At high speeds, air is forced into the cabin. This makes the car unstable, because all that air can't get out of the cabin. This is why the early Shelbys, have the lowered top rear window. It ha a vent in it to let that air flow thru, and keep the car stable. The Flow through ventilation does the same job. on a '69 you'd have to open the rear vent windows to get the same effect.

The Retro Sound "San Diego" model has DAB radio. Here in Norway, it is the only choice, since the FM radio net has been shut off.

The speaker cannot be deeper than the seam in the bottom of the door. I just can't remember that measurement.

Nice car, love the color! 1970 came with a tan deluxe interior color. The only difference in the panel is the mirror control hole. https://mustangmarket.net/Mustang/1964-1973 Mustang/1970 Mustang/1970 Mustang Door Panels/1970 Mustang Deluxe Mach 1 Door Panels.htm

I think it stops where it is if stopped on the way up. And goes to park if stopped on the way down.

351W RPM top end kit, Air-Gap, running a flat base and a 2" K/N filter. Also TCP engine mounts.

Bingo! I do have a fairly complete history of the car, as I came in contact with a PO and got a lot of info. There are a few holes, but the car had an interesting life, like most of these cars had. They was meant to be driven, and they were driven!

I know the car had an accident crashing in a highway off-ramp divider in the early '90s, so who knows. But it doesn't look like it had a hard life. The car is mint underneath. The cracks was in the sheet metal, not the actual shock mounts. I think this is just the softness of the SportsRoof chassis. The air shock theory is interesting to me. These cracks were in the car when I got it (2004), and they looked like scissor cuts more than anything. Looked to me like something that has been made over time. I think a sudden impact would have left a more drastic clues, or at least other damages to the area around it. In this picture, I had scraped the under coating, and pressure washed it. It was clean as can be. Can even see the assembly line dolly mounting marks at the rear. I added the subframe connectors in 2005, so the cracks was there before I did that.