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fvike

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Posts posted by fvike

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Yes, I have it covered in my build thread, pages 15 and 16. http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/48318-crashed-my-fastback-the-rebuild-thread/&do=findComment&comment=184062

    This is an T-56. You have to swap out the crossmember, to a T-56 spec crossmember. https://www.npdlink.com/product/crossmember-transmission-custom-tall-version-is-made-to/199428

    If you look at my pictures, I cut most of the top of the tunnel out, used it as a lid, and filled in the sides. It raised the tunnel a bit, but still enough room to fit the original console under the lower dash.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I haven't got the PF4 in my Mustang, but my brother has it in his '70 'cuda. 340. The throttle body is slightly lower than a Holley HP carb, so issues with the hood on '69 wouldn't be any different from what we're used to with these cars.

    That said, The PF4 is in my opinion far better than the TBIs out there. Really, the only thing you need to keep an eye on is that the O2 sensor is online, so the system isn't mis-learing anything. I doubt it'll be a plug and play deal, some issues might be encountered. Sensors can go bad  etc. The huge plus with the PF4 is that it has a pad that you use to tune it, so you can stand outside the car, or sit in it, and put the pad away in the console when you're cruising. 

    Still, while my brother is super happy with his PF4, I prefer carburetors.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    17 hours ago, potato said:

    Good info.  Is your picture a 1970 door?  I see it has the longer style of handle bracket installed.  The photo above yours has the shorter style.

    Yes it is. '69 car with a '70 door and '70 glass all around. At some point the drivers door was wrapped around and replaced with a '70 door. The other door has the '70 handle bracket screwed in place, not riveted, but I belive it is the original door.

    Edit: The door panels on my car is '69 as identified by the material on them and the '69 mirror adjuster. So I guess they work with the '70 handle brackets.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    On 6/20/2022 at 2:48 PM, rockhouse66 said:

    Here is what the door looks like behind a deluxe panel.

     

    DSC03811.JPG

    Note that the two clips on the top of the door must be removed when installing the deluxe panel. My car had been converted sometime in the '90s and I could not understand why the door panel would always bust up the chrome on my door locks. The panel just didn't sit right with those clips in place.

     9541894836_2e7ae159fb_h.jpg

  8. Posted · Report reply

    I got this a while back, ca 2007, so I can't really remember, but I think it's Ford #3662 I got. There wasn't so may models then. I had to modify my brakepedal to make it work, I probably had a 1970 brake pedal. I also had to change the rod in mine to use the big Wilwood MC. But again, there was only one model to choose from then, and Hydratech basicly coustomized it to my car/MC combo.

    I have/had the PS tank on the driver side of the engine bay. A AN -10 goes from the tank to the pump.  All other lines are An -6. The pump sends pressure to the Hydraboost first. This was routed around the shock tower. The Hydraboost have a low pressure return that runs back to the tank, also around the shock tower. The Hydraboost high pressure return runs back around the shock tower and down to the rack 'n pinion. The return from the rack goes back in the tank. The KRC tank only has one return inlet, so I modified mine with an weld in AN -6 bung on the opposite side.

    8086829010_7461ddb98f_b.jpg

    This is a bad picture, but you can see the line routing. 

    8086850576_8b57e90a38_b.jpg

    Same, both pictures are obviously post crash.

    As I am currently restoring the car (Year 10) , I'll be routing the lines differently now. I'll have a cooler, so return from the rack will go to the cooler, then to the tank. Also, I'll be routing the lines outside the engien compartments thru the bulkheads on the inner fender walls. I'll also use jacketed PTFE braided hoses this time to save the paint. https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/hose-fuel-ptfe-stainless-steel-braided-black-jacketed/

    52045009971_fa756b6a94_b.jpg

    52045522300_a982ea4927_b.jpg

    The lines will run on the backside of the shock tower thru the bulkheads.

     

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I have the Hydratech unit, love it. Hydratechbraking has the most fantastic customer service I have ever experienced.

    I haven't run a cooler before, but I am going to run one in the future. I've not had any problems with foaming, but the PS fluid has been very hot. I run the Hydraboost in combination with a TCP power rack and the KRC pump with an external tank. 

    Mach1 Driver reacted to this

  11. Posted · Report reply

    On 2/23/2022 at 1:56 AM, lanky said:

    Fvike, did you need to grind down those mount posts to get the pulley to align properly? In the past I had a similar mount and it was a PITA to align, as I had to torque everything down for it to be in it's actual mounting location. Then see where/how it's misaligned, then unbolt, grind a bit, and redo the process etc...

    No, I didn't. I used the supplied spacers to get it right, but I did have to put a 1/4" spacer behind the WP pulley. 

     Now that I have a much bigger cooler package (DeWitts Radiator and SPAL dual fans) I needed that 1/4" back to get enough clearance for the alternator and one of the fan motors, so everything is moved max in. 6 rib/3 rib WP pulley is also installed. I need to cut 1/4" off the PS pump bolts, as they are too long now.

    44552775155_a15ae70aea_b.jpg

  14. Posted · Report reply

    PO is "Prove Out" which is a systems test. It's when the key is turned to the left from center. I don't know if that connector is live when ignition is on. @Midlife would know.

    Edit: I don't see why you cant use the yellow connector under the  dash. I said light just as an example. It can be used for anything. I's just a 12v source.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Here are two links you can read. If your car didn't come with a tach, you don't have an tach output, and need to make it:

    http://www.boss302.com/tach.htm

    This was done to my old harness, which is out of the car now, so let me know if you need any pictures. Also if you get an MSD or FAST ignition box or equalent, they will have tach outputs.

    Sun Tach discussion on Stangnet:

    https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/tach-wiring-questions.512040/?__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=pmd_IM8ZpAXhSH3qaefKE7xy48PrEtLEgEmBK0rYRBu2QVM-1632508608-0-gqNtZGzNAlCjcnBszQjl

     

  18. Posted · Report reply

    On 8/5/2021 at 5:56 PM, rr03cobra said:

    sorry guys I know this has been beaten to death but I need to purchase asap. I have a 69 sportsroof 351W/4 speed that I have installed Unisteer rack and pinion on. I took off the old headers and my new headers didn't fit with the shock towers (too wide at connection flange).  should have measured them instead of taking someones word.  lol. anyways, these are the old ones. Does anyone recognize these or can someone recommend some that have a 3" width (tape measure is at an angle) that will work with Unisteer?  Called Sanderson Headers but the guy wasn't quite sure if they would fit without adding another knuckle. 

    IMG_7498[1].JPG

    IMG_7496[1].JPG

    Those looks like Hedman longtubes, but the collector seems to short, comparing to my Hedmans. I've only seen the loose collector ring on Hedman, which is a feature I like a lot. I got mine recoated with thermal coating. So yours looks savable to me. 

    26802039476_3c3de819c9_b.jpg

    28814659562_753a3a8f1f_b.jpg

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I have the Total Control Products front coil overs, rear coilovers with watts link and a torque arm and their power rack and pinion. I also have their subframe connectors and motor mounts.

    Pros: Installs easily, not much modification needed, but the subframe connectors needs to be welded in. Same goes for the rear suspension mounting. Rack is very high quality, Woodward internals. No issiues with clearing headers etc. Front suspension uses stock mounting locations.

    Cons: Still uses the '69 or '70 spindles, so you're limited on your brake choice. Only Baer has a big brake kit for those spindles. I've had problems with the shock absorbers, as they do not have dust boots. Sand and road dirt ruins the seal after a while. Norway weather is not California weather.

    35098463493_92f17785f7_b.jpg

     

     

  21. Posted · Report reply

    What the F... Progress??

    First time powering up the AAW harness. Got head lights, tail lights, horn, heater fan, radio, interior lights and voltmeter working. Hazards only work with parking lights, so there is some gremlins yet. I have a lot of grounds to go over.  But it's huge for me to finally be able to power up stuff. It's been over a year since the last update, and I have been doing stuff, but I never did feel it was enough to make a post about. Still there is work to be done on the harness, but a big step was made today.

    51320987895_f8b5bbf0ae_b.jpg

    51320189933_dc5f594f15_b.jpg

     

    SWPruett, toranav8ss, stangs-R-me and 1 other reacted to this

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Go for the TCP Rack and Pinon. Woodward internals, clears long tube headers. It's a truly bolt-in deal. You need not modify a single part on the car, but you'll not get a great result with a factory Ford PS pump. The KRC pump that they sell is excellent The flow valves i n the pump can be swapped out for tuning.. Going for their manual rack and an electric assist steering column might also be a option.

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