fvike

Do not cut the carpet at the door sills. Give it some time, and let it settle before you trim.

Yes, I have it covered in my build thread, pages 15 and 16. http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/48318-crashed-my-fastback-the-rebuild-thread/&do=findComment&comment=184062 This is an T-56. You have to swap out the crossmember, to a T-56 spec crossmember. https://www.npdlink.com/product/crossmember-transmission-custom-tall-version-is-made-to/199428 If you look at my pictures, I cut most of the top of the tunnel out, used it as a lid, and filled in the sides. It raised the tunnel a bit, but still enough room to fit the original console under the lower dash.

I haven't got the PF4 in my Mustang, but my brother has it in his '70 'cuda. 340. The throttle body is slightly lower than a Holley HP carb, so issues with the hood on '69 wouldn't be any different from what we're used to with these cars. That said, The PF4 is in my opinion far better than the TBIs out there. Really, the only thing you need to keep an eye on is that the O2 sensor is online, so the system isn't mis-learing anything. I doubt it'll be a plug and play deal, some issues might be encountered. Sensors can go bad etc. The huge plus with the PF4 is that it has a pad that you use to tune it, so you can stand outside the car, or sit in it, and put the pad away in the console when you're cruising. Still, while my brother is super happy with his PF4, I prefer carburetors.

Yes it is. '69 car with a '70 door and '70 glass all around. At some point the drivers door was wrapped around and replaced with a '70 door. The other door has the '70 handle bracket screwed in place, not riveted, but I belive it is the original door. Edit: The door panels on my car is '69 as identified by the material on them and the '69 mirror adjuster. So I guess they work with the '70 handle brackets.

Note that the two clips on the top of the door must be removed when installing the deluxe panel. My car had been converted sometime in the '90s and I could not understand why the door panel would always bust up the chrome on my door locks. The panel just didn't sit right with those clips in place.

Pretty sure that is the clip for the brake pedal shaft.

I got this a while back, ca 2007, so I can't really remember, but I think it's Ford #3662 I got. There wasn't so may models then. I had to modify my brakepedal to make it work, I probably had a 1970 brake pedal. I also had to change the rod in mine to use the big Wilwood MC. But again, there was only one model to choose from then, and Hydratech basicly coustomized it to my car/MC combo. I have/had the PS tank on the driver side of the engine bay. A AN -10 goes from the tank to the pump. All other lines are An -6. The pump sends pressure to the Hydraboost first. This was routed around the shock tower. The Hydraboost have a low pressure return that runs back to the tank, also around the shock tower. The Hydraboost high pressure return runs back around the shock tower and down to the rack 'n pinion. The return from the rack goes back in the tank. The KRC tank only has one return inlet, so I modified mine with an weld in AN -6 bung on the opposite side. This is a bad picture, but you can see the line routing. Same, both pictures are obviously post crash. As I am currently restoring the car (Year 10) , I'll be routing the lines differently now. I'll have a cooler, so return from the rack will go to the cooler, then to the tank. Also, I'll be routing the lines outside the engien compartments thru the bulkheads on the inner fender walls. I'll also use jacketed PTFE braided hoses this time to save the paint. https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/hose-fuel-ptfe-stainless-steel-braided-black-jacketed/ The lines will run on the backside of the shock tower thru the bulkheads.

I have the Hydratech unit, love it. Hydratechbraking has the most fantastic customer service I have ever experienced. I haven't run a cooler before, but I am going to run one in the future. I've not had any problems with foaming, but the PS fluid has been very hot. I run the Hydraboost in combination with a TCP power rack and the KRC pump with an external tank.

There are a lot of Mustangs here in Norway. It's the most imported US car behind the Corvette.

No, I didn't. I used the supplied spacers to get it right, but I did have to put a 1/4" spacer behind the WP pulley. Now that I have a much bigger cooler package (DeWitts Radiator and SPAL dual fans) I needed that 1/4" back to get enough clearance for the alternator and one of the fan motors, so everything is moved max in. 6 rib/3 rib WP pulley is also installed. I need to cut 1/4" off the PS pump bolts, as they are too long now.

You can get serpentine pulleys for your pump at KRCpower.com I don't think you'll find a better pump than the KRC unit. Stay with it. You can change flow valves on it to tune it to your liking too. I did change mine. I have a full KRC setup, and it's very clean. After this picture was taken, I have changed the WP pulley from a 6rib/6rib to a 6rib/3rib.

This is the one we're talking about. My car had seat belt warning that was plugged into this.

PO is "Prove Out" which is a systems test. It's when the key is turned to the left from center. I don't know if that connector is live when ignition is on. @Midlife would know. Edit: I don't see why you cant use the yellow connector under the dash. I said light just as an example. It can be used for anything. I's just a 12v source.

Here are two links you can read. If your car didn't come with a tach, you don't have an tach output, and need to make it: http://www.boss302.com/tach.htm This was done to my old harness, which is out of the car now, so let me know if you need any pictures. Also if you get an MSD or FAST ignition box or equalent, they will have tach outputs. Sun Tach discussion on Stangnet: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/tach-wiring-questions.512040/?__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=pmd_IM8ZpAXhSH3qaefKE7xy48PrEtLEgEmBK0rYRBu2QVM-1632508608-0-gqNtZGzNAlCjcnBszQjl

There should be a 3-way female bullet connector under there with a yellow jacket. It can be used for auxillary equipment. But I doubt a tach can get a reading from it, but it can power the lights in the instrument.

Do not cut it flush! Keep it long, and trim it next year if you can. Use a steamer to form the carpet.

Those looks like Hedman longtubes, but the collector seems to short, comparing to my Hedmans. I've only seen the loose collector ring on Hedman, which is a feature I like a lot. I got mine recoated with thermal coating. So yours looks savable to me.

Good to see they got 14" rotors now for the Mustang spindle. They only had the 12.88" before. At least with the Superlite caliper.

I have the Total Control Products front coil overs, rear coilovers with watts link and a torque arm and their power rack and pinion. I also have their subframe connectors and motor mounts. Pros: Installs easily, not much modification needed, but the subframe connectors needs to be welded in. Same goes for the rear suspension mounting. Rack is very high quality, Woodward internals. No issiues with clearing headers etc. Front suspension uses stock mounting locations. Cons: Still uses the '69 or '70 spindles, so you're limited on your brake choice. Only Baer has a big brake kit for those spindles. I've had problems with the shock absorbers, as they do not have dust boots. Sand and road dirt ruins the seal after a while. Norway weather is not California weather.

What the F... Progress?? First time powering up the AAW harness. Got head lights, tail lights, horn, heater fan, radio, interior lights and voltmeter working. Hazards only work with parking lights, so there is some gremlins yet. I have a lot of grounds to go over. But it's huge for me to finally be able to power up stuff. It's been over a year since the last update, and I have been doing stuff, but I never did feel it was enough to make a post about. Still there is work to be done on the harness, but a big step was made today.

Ey! Check yo inbox Mid!

I have it. Can you post a picture of your problem? I remember the shocks hitting my sway bar, not the UCAs when I installed them.

Go for the TCP Rack and Pinon. Woodward internals, clears long tube headers. It's a truly bolt-in deal. You need not modify a single part on the car, but you'll not get a great result with a factory Ford PS pump. The KRC pump that they sell is excellent The flow valves i n the pump can be swapped out for tuning.. Going for their manual rack and an electric assist steering column might also be a option.

U-Pol Raptor bedliner.