DarkBuddha

I'm still super dubious of the self-centering of the Borgeson setup... talked to 2 guys with it at a show today. Both said it won't self center, even with 4+ degrees of caster. So at this point, I think I'm going to try to make the most of the stock steering for a while... install some poly bushings in the ram, go with a roller idler arm, etc. If that works well, I'll probably have the stock box rebuilt with 12:1 gears. If it continues to leak like a sieve, I'll probably go with the Borgeson and live with the lack of self-center.

Rsanter, I visited CPP's site, and it appears their conversion IS the Borgeson conversion based on the part number listed. Perhaps you have another link?

Rsanter, I visited CPP's site, and it appears their conversion IS the Borgeson conversion based on the part number listed. Perhaps you have another link?

So I've got a bit of coin saved up for upgrading my '70 and am trying how best to spend it. I'm in the midst of doing an engine install (408w) and thought it would be a good time to upgrade beyond the factory leaky ps ram and old box. I've budgeted as much as $1000 and I think I've settled on these options, and related issues/benefits: 1. Borgeson integrated ps box and pump. Concerns about return to center. It would integrate better with hydroboost power brakes later if I go with supercharger or big cam later. Pricey at almost $1000 after all said and done. 2. Rebuilt ps box (maybe with 12:1 gears) with Saturn Vue electric power steering setup. Improved steering ratio means fewer turns lock to lock, and EPAS means no pump to run (or leaks). Cost is more reasonable too, probably $700 max. I'm also slightly concerned about the install and future repairability should the EPAS or electronics fail. Also means no real option for hydroboost power brakes in the future. 3. Rebuild ps box with 12:1 gears, reseal the factory ps as best I can, and live with some likely leaks and having to rebuild/reseal it every few years. Cheap at only $400 maybe, and spend the difference on bigger front discs. I'm open to other options in the same general price range, but dropping $1500+ for a power rack is out, and I'm not willing to give up power assist. Let me know whatcha think. Thanks in advance.

So I've got a bit of coin saved up for upgrading my '70 and am trying how best to spend it. I'm in the midst of doing an engine install (408w) and thought it would be a good time to upgrade beyond the factory leaky ps ram and old box. I've budgeted as much as $1000 and I think I've settled on these options, and related issues/benefits: 1. Borgeson integrated ps box and pump. Concerns about return to center. It would integrate better with hydroboost power brakes later if I go with supercharger or big cam later. Pricey at almost $1000 after all said and done. 2. Rebuilt ps box (maybe with 12:1 gears) with Saturn Vue electric power steering setup. Improved steering ratio means fewer turns lock to lock, and EPAS means no pump to run (or leaks). Cost is more reasonable too, probably $700 max. I'm also slightly concerned about the install and future repairability should the EPAS or electronics fail. Also means no real option for hydroboost power brakes in the future. 3. Rebuild ps box with 12:1 gears, reseal the factory ps as best I can, and live with some likely leaks and having to rebuild/reseal it every few years. Cheap at only $400 maybe, and spend the difference on bigger front discs. I'm open to other options in the same general price range, but dropping $1500+ for a power rack is out, and I'm not willing to give up power assist. Let me know whatcha think. Thanks in advance.

Glad you decided to keep it... car is fantastic and inspirational.

Did I miss something? I thought I saw somewhere where you said you were selling this car? I thought that was crazy, so I totally understand keeping it, but just curious.

No pics worth posting, but for two weeks straight I've gone over to pop's shop to work on the car and there are half billion other things in the way needing attention... so, while not directly related to progress on the Mustang, I did a bunch of stuff so I can get back to working on it. Hopefully this weekend I'll get most of the motor assembled.

I ordered some parts to finish getting the new motor completed... distributor, water pump, fuel pump, fuel line, hoses, etc. Also ordered a new set of hood hinges (rather than fixing the originals again). Have a few more things I still need to order, but they can wait for now. Should have most of the new stuff before the weekend so I can work on the car.

I don't think anyone was saying you could get a SPORTSROOF for $10k, but coupes, definitely. In both Florida and Washington state there are lots of decent cars for relatively cheap. A few craigslist examples: In Florida: '69 coupe, $9k: http://lakeland.craigslist.org/cto/4525192770.html really nice '69 coupe, $15.5k: http://tampa.craigslist.org/psc/cto/4530730764.html '69 coupe show car $18k: http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/4505582692.html '70 sportsroof, $12.5k : http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/4510959441.html really clean '70 coupe 6 cyl, $12k: http://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/cto/4520741450.html '70 coupe, $10k: http://tampa.craigslist.org/psc/cto/4525130005.html '70 coupe, looks good, needs an engine, $7500: http://panamacity.craigslist.org/cto/4488129041.html In Washington: '70 Coupe, pretty clean, $7500: http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/cto/4535640331.html '70 sportsroof, $11.5k: http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/cto/4527112570.html '70 coupe, one-owner, $12k: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4517981235.html '70 coupe, finished, $12k: http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/4535388758.html '69 coupe, 31k original miles, 3 speed, $10k: http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/4492463931.html '69 Grande, needs a bit of clean up, $9500: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/ctd/4505835766.html They're still out there.

One more thing to think about is how "iconic" a particular model is. For example, some would say that the '69-'70s aren't the icons of the vintage Mustang world the way the '67-'69 are for vintage Camaros. Certainly we all recognize that 65-'66 convertibles were once "THE" Mustangs to own, then it was the '65-'66 fastbacks, then it was '67-'68 fastbacks (especially when the Eleanwhore craze hit). Only over the last few years have the '69-'70s started to get the kind of attention and treatment that draws folks have begun to recognize their appeal and potential. But that attention has again been on the sportsroofs modified in the street rod and pro-touring styles primarily.

BTW, here's the thread I started on my survey of auction results: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=15461

It depends on what your point of reference is for comparing prices. From what I've seen, generally, similarly built and spec'd Mustangs do sell for relatively similar prices to other muscle cars. That said, the playing field has never been level when it comes to Ford versus GM or Mopar in terms of return on investment at certain build levels. Certainly, at the resto level, Mustangs have some advantage in terms of parts availability. But in terms of ease and accessibility for things like suspension, brakes, motor builds and swaps, there are certain inherent differences that favor cars like the Camaro. But the real thing I think hindering Mustang prices is the ingrained continued belief that deviation from a stock restoration hurts resale values. I just did a really basic survey of auction results from the last few years and other than the truly rare and highly sought-after cars like legit Boss 429s and Shelbys, there was no real sales price advantage for stock restos, and in fact, many modified Mustangs sold at significant premiums over similar quality stock resto cars. Again neither GMs or Mopars are so saddled (pun intended) with such well established rhetoric.

I just ordered a set of Heddman's "3/4" length 351w headers, #88650, for my car. I think they're available ceramic coated as well, but I'm cheap.

I can't tell a Laurel from a Cedric, but it's always cool to see some vintage JDM stuff.

I always find it intimidating seeing a car that stripped down... have courage! BTW, what's the deal with the Cedric?

I'm currently runnign 245/45/17s, which is just under 9" of tread width:

This is a complicated question without more info... lots more, like about your ride height, intended use, suspension components, etc. I will say, folks have fit 9.5" wide wheels in front and up to 10.5" wide wheels in the rear. Those are the extremes, but anything between 7-8" wide will fit the front without much concern, assuming you get the backspacing right. And anything 8-9" wide in the rear will fit without much concern, again assuming you get the backspacing right. As for tire widths, it depends on the wheel size and backspacing you choose, but 225-245 wide is common in front, and folks have been able to fit up to a 295 in the rear with the right offset and a bit of fender rolling, My suggestion is that you take a look at this article to get you started: http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/mufp-0612-ford-mustang-wheel/

I finally got around to finishing painting pulleys and brackets. Just hope the paint survives longer than it took to finish... sigh.

Several companies now offer bolt-in integrated power steering boxes for our cars. It gets rid of all the annoying, leaking, stock power steering parts and replaces it all with a single, nice, new, tight steering box. It's about the half the cost of a lower end r&p conversion for a complete kit, or you can just buy the box (~$600) and make your own hoses and stuff. That's what I would do, and what I plan to do when my original system starts leaking again.

Thought I'd post a quick update... I've not been working on it for the last few weeks due to family and business commitments, until today when I finally finished painting the accessory pulleys and brackets. At this point, I really need to order parts to finish assembling the motor in preparation for installing it. Didn't bother with pics today. You'll just have to wait to see the motor assembled instead.

I'm hoping to have it done enough to take it to some events later this year... Perhaps we'll have occasion to meet.

"Upgrade" would be a strong word for it, but yeah, it's a remote release latch. Damn'd if I recall what it was from, but it was essentially a direct swap. The only real issue with it is that the underhood catch handle is very short. It's still completely reachable, but I might weld an extension on it for convenience sake.

Spent some time painting engine accessory brackets and pulleys... still not done. And the satin dried to a nice finish, so I'm pleased with it now.

I think the epoxy will be plenty solid. As he mentioned, modern assembly epoxies are super strong and have replaced welding in some places in auto manufacturing for both structural and non-structural components. But if it's still a concern, I'd think subframe connectors and/or a roll bar/cage reinforcing the chassis would solve the issue.