CavScout

I just ran into a hose leaking problem for Randalls Rack... I went to see if I could order them from him but no answer. Does anyone have the specs (fittings) for what is he is shipping?

Nice video - inspiring! I am having a 428 SCJ built for my Mach 1 and I want to put a Tremec behind it so I can do that type of driving.

I look forward to watching this thread, I am too am assembling the components for doing a C6 to a T5 swap. I was able to get my hands on a upgraded T5 for decent $, now the other parts need to come. Question on the flywheel. I have a 390 stock engine - what type of engine are you doing your conversion with?

Like Ltnrsk, I am looking to do a swap as well. Would a T-5 work with a 390 s code as well? I am considering swapping out my C6 for a manual to significantly improve the grin per mile. I would put my car closer to the daily driver category...vs hard core racing.

Like Ltnrsk, I am looking to do a swap as well. Would a T-5 work with a 390 s code as well? I am considering swapping out my C6 for a manual to significantly improve the grin per mile. I would put my car closer to the daily driver category...vs hard core racing.

I think you need a ball joint separator. I used a pickle fork on mine and ruined the actuator but didn't mind as I am upgrading to R&P. Not sure if this helps since my old system was power steering with a power ram.

Thanks for the help - it was a case of the eccentric being in the wrong position. Just hit the starter a few times to find the right position and it went in smoothly. Of course, when I went to mount the new power steering pump on, I broke the water pump hole that is supposed to be part of the bracket.... and found out that my fuel line needed to be completely remade since the old one went where the new pump goes... got my crash course in bending steel fuel lines... but that is done and on the car. Now have to get the new water pump on.... all just to upgrade the steering to a Randalls Rack. Haven't even finished that yet.. my day job is getting in the way of the hobby of working on the car.

Here is a case of a newbie getting over my head too quickly - while replacing the steering system (to Randalls Rack) I decided to replace the fuel pump since I noticed it was leaking last summer - I didn't do that much research into it as it looked pretty straightforward in the manuals. It came out easy enough but when I went to replace it with a new one - it doesn't fit in easily. Not wanting to over torque it and damage the pump - I put down the tools, backed away and went to the forum. The pump appears to want to be about 1/2 inch lower. I check with the old pump and it looks to be at the same level. My questions - should I have a lot of tension on the rocker arm? How much should the rocker arm move? Any tricks for getting it in correctly? Thanks

I had instrument cluster light issues - replaced the dimmer switch but that didn't solve the problem. For me, it turned out to be grounding issues with the printed circuit board (plastic). I solved it by using electrical tape to block any inadvertant grounding between the individual bulbs and the board. It brightened up my my cluster panel considerably.