jmlay

Some good reading on the subject: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/606694-borgeson-power-steering-conversion.html http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/802553-borgeson-steering-box-questions.html http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/790455-new-mustang-steering-product.html

http://www.shrinkpictures.com/

There a few repops out there of the ford holley bracket.: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/69-Mustang-THROTTLE-CABLE-BRACKET-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e5983657cQQitemZ130350802300QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_551wt_1165 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/69-428-CJ-FE-Mustang-THROTTLE-CABLE-BRACKET-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e59bce1d0QQitemZ130354569680QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_503wt_1165 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-71-Mustang-Cougar-351C-4V-Throttle-Cable-Bracket_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563864e7c3QQitemZ370313324483QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_804wt_1165 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-Cougar-Mustang-Throttle-Bracket-351C_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5638615695QQitemZ370313090709QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_956 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-1970-Ford-Mustang-Boss-302-Throttle-Cable-Bracket_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4a866c8f08QQitemZ320082841352QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_1182 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Throttle-Cable-Bracket-1969-428-Cobra-Jet-SCJ-Mustang_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem483629c90fQQitemZ310146353423QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_956

Mine was an open cell foam strip. Jan. San Jose Build.

Phosphate & oil, darker is magnesium phosphate.

NPD catalog PG 32. Listed as 68 but may work for 69 also.: http://npd.dirxion.com/WebProject.asp?BookCode=mtg09flx#

Sounds like you have the engine out of the car or enough weight removed fromt he front that it is now setting high. I would not mount them until you have the car at ride hight to keep from damaging the shocks.

I am not 100 % but I am guessing the one on the top, first picture is a 70. It looks like it has a recess for the reinforcement that goes behind it, 70 only.

I would expect this resistor wire to get warm but I am not sure how warm. As explained by others this wire is used to drop the voltage to the coil. It drops the voltage with resistance & resistance generates heat. You mentioned the resistor wire was spliced at one end.

A set of these will not scrape the ground like what you have had before, thy fit high & tight.: http://fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/Mustang1.htm Mike

I believe the Cougar rear used different spring pads. The pads allow for a rubber pad to help isolate the housing from the springs/body.

Has anyone tried the new option from Borgeson? http://www.borgeson.com/mustang.html

Staggered shocks were not only BB cars. I think anything above the 302 & had a 4speed had staggered shocks. The tie downs were on all cars & should have been removed as part of the dealer prep. I assume the shock towers are typically BB but have been seen on others. In fact I have seen a few cars that have 1 BB shock tower, other is standard...

Considering the column is bolted to the firewall & the dash dictates it will need to be disconnected on one end or the other.

Hinges are phosphate & oil as listed above. The shock tower caps may be semi gloss black or phosphate & oil depending on where the car was built. Mike

I would use a bit of sealer in the corners where the hump meets the rail, cork or rubber. Also make sure you flatten the pan rail if the bolt hos are warped from someone over tightening them. The rubber gaskets usually have reinforcing rings to keep the gasket from squishing out when tightened. Mike

I was talking about the complete lower dash, with the clock & gauges still in place. Obviously the pad would need to be removed first along with the column. The wire harness is attached to the lower dash as well. If you were not going to completely remove it just remove the bolts from the lower dash & pull it to the rear, supporting it from below. In reality I think it would be very difficult to mix up the wiring.

You do not need to remove the instrument cluster. Remove the assembly & you should have very little trouble putting it back together if you lable all wires & disconnect as few as possible. Mike

I keep telling my wife I am good for something... One day she will believe me! ;-)

http://www.428cobrajet.org/forum/index.php?topic=8966.0

Just guessing.. If the AC is on I would say it is most likely condensation. There should be a hose that drains outside. It is possible the heater box is not sealed any longer, the tube is plugged or the tube is cracked.

NAPA # DAP1606 Ford Dark Blue Duplicolor #1606 PPG: Ditzler DAR 13358 acrylic enamel DXR 80 Delthane Ultra Urethane Hardener Ditzler DX 265 All Purpose Flatting Base (25% to 30%)

If you were to buy an intake which one would you select, I am not familiar whit your current combo?

Jim, There is no reason to be embarrassed. I applaud you for sticking with it & sharing your findings!

You could get the 70 Dual hangers & tweak them to fit if needed.