jmlay

@TexasEd, Thank you very much. You confirmed I do have an incorrect piece but it is NOT the one the body shop thought was incorrect. I have one coupe/convertible and one fastback. Coupe/convertible are longer than a fastback.

I do not have the answer to your question but I do have a suggestion. Please consider buying the tools or take the parts to someone that has the appropriate tools to measure rather than trust plastigage. On edit, here is the answer to your question in regards to "A-2" & "B-1", at the end of the video.: https://www.dragzine.com/news/video-mahle-talks-markings-on-engine-bearings/

I was inferring you were just replacing the rails forward. Guess I should work on my reading comprehension as I get older.... I see now! My car is currently with my body guy or I would happily take some measurements for you. As I recall the inner rocker & outer rocker should lineup & the bottom 90 deg bend should be even with the inner & outer rockers. I think I would start with getting the frame rails lined up per the drawings above & then line up the floor with the bottom of the rockers then clamp tograther. Next I would start clamping in the frame rails, core support per the drawings above. If all of that looks good put on your doors, fenders & hood to see how things line up. If you can adjust everything to get the lines correct start welding it all together. DO NOT weld anything until you have trial fit everything.

Your not there yet but note in the liskey diagram, first attachment, the cross measurement from the rear frame rail to the front frame rail support, 59 1/8", is NOT incorrect. The diagram indicates to use the incorrect hole in the frame rail support to measure.

Sorry for the poor quality, picture from mobile....

I ASSUME your using the below attached drawing. The Ford drawing uses different reference points, I can post this if needed. It is nice to have both in order to double shcesk. Note, it does take a bit of math to compare the 2 diagrams. Your definitely in a pickle. But it is not unrecoverable. That being said my recommendation is to lock "X-6 1/2", I drilled a hole 6 1/2" up the support & bolted the body to the frame/table. Raise/lower the front of the body until your "C" & "11 3/16" (rear of frame rail) measurements are in range. At that point you may check your rocker dimensions. Next would be adding the pieces adjusting in order to arrive at the proper measurements. Keep in mind even the factory bodys were not perfect, lots of variation. Try to get as close as possible but do not expect perfection. I will attach the Ford drawing that you may uses to double check your work. I will also see if I can find my notes that included adjusted dimensions for combined measurements for both drawings.

On the full firewall I removed & replaced in my 69 fastback there was no flange. The flange seen from the interior is the flange on the TQ box. The firewall was trimmed to set inside the TQ box flange.

Also the hood scoop turn signals, if equipped.

Wire harness retainer attaches to this tab.

I have no knowledge of the bracket pictured. "40427" is the rubber shield that goes between the body & the bumper to shield any spilled gas from the license plate light &/or keep the license plate light from shining above the bumper.: https://www.musclecarresearch.com/69-70-rear-lamp-shield

Agreed, looks original to me.

While I have no experience with a top loader or the tkx, I feel comfortable stating it goes behind the cross brace. The tkx is a longer transmission than the toploader, based upon the measurements I have seen online. The answer will be clear when you have the transmissions next to each other.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/seals-quarter-panel-extension/104454/203180?year=1969

If the base is not cracked/broken you may be able to heat with a heat gun and carefully reform it. If that does not work you have not lost anything. On a second look it is broken. Bummer!

It’s my understanding the smaller crimp joint are “correct”.

Both.

Perhaps cut the bard fitting off and try a hard line adapter, compression, fitting. https://www.anplumbing.com/adapters/compression.html

I second this. In addition I would fit the glass, trim& gasket before positioning & drilling, skip the sealer inside the gasket until the final install. Have you been in a car with louvers? If not you might want to find someone that has them installed so that you may experience them and their quirks before drilling any holes. I had them on an 82 GT & my 69 Mach1, will not be going back on the Mach1 after paint. In both cases the rattles drove me crazy. Als a pain the rear to clean the glass. But they look great. :-)

You might want to look for an oem fender before buying new.

Try this: https://www.youtube.com/embed/hTnQKPP3XFg?rel=0

If the width is stock 28 spline axle in a big housing would utilize an 88128-RA.

Read the voltage at all of the connections of the red/blue, with the ignition switch in start position. I would start in the middle a d work back toward the ignition switch until you find voltage. The problem will be between where you have voltage and where you do not. Could also start at the ignition switch and work toward the starter solinoid.

I have one. The spot weld holding the retaining has failed. Otherwise very nice piece. Let me know if your interested.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/seal-quarter-latch-pillar/144763?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3DWindow%2Bseal%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969