jmlay

I am having trouble uploading pictures. Is this a known issue?

The person whom signed the loan papers is financially responsible to the lender. If the car is repoed the lender would determine the value of the car as it sets, sell the car & expect to recoup the difference between the loan value and the value it was sold for. IF I were a buyer I would insure I had a signed bill of sale and a copy of the sellers drivers license. I'm not affiliated with law enforcement or an insurance company, etc… so what do I really know…

I believe he is referring to the wide moldings that are “inside” the grill opening. Assuming this is correct there is a push in plastic retainer for the top hole, at least that is how mine were mounted.

Certificate issue, or lack of certificate, with the forum. The browser is just making you aware. Note the warning sign next to the site url seen in the image below, this is how my mobile device signals an insecure site. If the site was enforcing security the the site url would force to utilize https, would redirect all http traffic to https. This site does the opposite, redirects secure traffic to insecure, https is redirected to http.

Have a ways to go but it’s a start. Comes off the rotisserie this week in order to finalize hood fit and final blocking of the hood.

SEM sprayable uses the same gun. Hoping for good results. Sealing the trunk and attempting to “duplicate” the sound deadener on the inside of the rear 1/4s on Saturday.

The trim you mention is standard. Many vin and data plate decoders available. If your really interested in as many details as possible contact Marty Auto Works and ask for the reports on your car.: https://classicponycars.com/69data.html https://www.martiauto.com/index.cfm

My plan is to utilize SEM sprayable seam sealer. The gun price is outrageous but I found a used one locally for a very reasonable amount.

Your only option is to pull the carrier. A couple of options to refill: 1) fill through the vent 2) pull an axle and fill through the tube

Looking good!

Likely an 8” with a 302, assuming it has a removable center section. The link below shows the differences between the 8” and 9”. https://www.fordmuscle.com/tech/8-inch-or-9-inch/ Regardless, the only way to drain is to pump the oil out through the fill plug or axle tube if your not wanting to pull the carrier.

all classic Mustang does not list one but may be worth contacting them: http://www.allclassicmustang.com/MustangpartsmustangpartsNOSmustangpartsrestoration.html Perhaps here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/305195966372?fits=Year%3A1969|Model%3AMustang&hash=item470f18dfa4:g:XSQAAOSwD4NlJbzW&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8Ni5E9cyowPNhQ0%2Bb5loSLCe%2FMhvfIwV%2FHAN%2BlOSrQWdz%2BuJ2xqB03qHAUNxyMwcl75rcc6WTgw2G33hHLcOqK7lI2LEwqsqYiUbw0Jy4TnZJk4oxPIhTSiw5%2BpmmeL5fo84uJaA5N4YYuJmKxtDgB3JXVZb%2BmB9qA5w619LlZE5%2BYaHumLcHI7SZ54yLJiN8K3Ako15K39C5UCJLLTFAMlqE7tz5g1vzskJZp3OtuhnG03b9%2Fowy6Fy7SNkNuVZU%2B3TpMxXEIvpRUJxYOlZdIRRmL5CeXgyn0z0SjFgDzJQwToRgtJOi8tRDwmR2Dc3KQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8rR_JDvYg

Brian, Not much info in the add but worth asking for details. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3171630819810782/?mibextid=6ojiHh

I would not paint the inside. It does need the rust removed. A product like evaporust, soak in cleaning vinegar, or electrolysis to name a few work to remove rust.

It’s all good. In the last 28 years I have had plenty of opportunity to obtain the correct housing but did not because I thought I had one. Unfortunately I did not measure it until recently and it is too wide. Happy you found the correct housing!

Ed, We discussed this in another post. The factory housing is 54.25” flange to flange. The overall width axle to axle flange is 59.25”. The axles stick out 2.25” on each side.:

As long as you have the correct thermostat and the correct brass insert I see no reason to switch to a standard thermostat and “pantera restrictor”. No need changing parts to change parts. In my opinion there is not enough airflow. Correct this first and reevaluate. Some explanation of the Cleveland thermostat and operation. https://www.coolcatcorp.com/thermostats/Ford.html

Since it is cooling while driving I would not expect the incorrect thermostat or missing brass insert. If the incorrect thermostat or the brass insert are missing I would expect it to overheat parked, moving slowly and more than likely at speed down the road, especially where he is. Why? Because, hot water is allowed to circulate in the block with limited return to the radiator.

You should check all of what is mentioned above. 1740 cfm, if that is what is actual being pulled through is definitely not enough air.

I would guess it is an airflow problem. The ac condenser is causing lower airflow and, when the ac is on, additional heat. What cfm are your fans rated? If you put a sheet of paper on the radiator with the fans on will it be sucked tightly to the radiator?

I agree with Brian, they look pretty good to me. I replaced my taillight pane longer ago than I care to admit and finally getting it all back together, not recall the manufacture. Here are pictures of mine for reference. With taillights installed it will be hard to tell if there is a small gap. Making them more parallel with the taillight, viewing from the rear, is more apparent.

The tq boxes were a tight fit between the frame rail and rockers. I will look for my measurement notes tomorrow.

Any new block is going to need to be gone over and will likely need some machining.

Got ya.

What size tires and wheels?