jag

There are new replacements. Try NPD or Virginia Mustang. JAG

PAK and MR D2 are both right, I just had the same problem. This is how I got rid of the play. The first item is to eliminate the steering box as the source. Run the car and slowly turn the steering wheel as you have the door open and watch the pitman arm. If it moves both ways as soon as you turn the steering wheel, the steering box should be good. The control valve is bad. I sent my valve to Rode's Restorations in Galion Ohio. They have been rebuilding these valves for 40 yrs. Great people and great service. I am very, very happy with the rebuilt. Another advantage is you can rest assured your valve will work when you get it back........just my two cents JAG

PAK and MR D2 are both right, I just had the same problem. This is how I got rid of the play. The first item is to eliminate the steering box as the source. Run the car and slowly turn the steering wheel as you have the door open and watch the pitman arm. If it moves both ways as soon as you turn the steering wheel, the steering box should be good. The control valve is bad. I sent my valve to Rode's Restorations in Galion Ohio. They have been rebuilding these valves for 40 yrs. Great people and great service. I am very, very happy with the rebuilt. Another advantage is you can rest assured your valve will work when you get it back........just my two cents JAG

I was having the same problem. Nothing would get the bolt to let go of the steering arm. I did not want to continue to beat on the arm so I bought a ball joint separator just like in the picture above. Best investment I made. It was out in literally 2 minutes. It let go with huge BAM. someone had really tightened it down tight. I am now a big fan of the ball joint separator and it only cost $28 to my door step. JAG

I was having the same problem. Nothing would get the bolt to let go of the steering arm. I did not want to continue to beat on the arm so I bought a ball joint separator just like in the picture above. Best investment I made. It was out in literally 2 minutes. It let go with huge BAM. someone had really tightened it down tight. I am now a big fan of the ball joint separator and it only cost $28 to my door step. JAG

Don't know how you did it, but it looks great......and it's not even finished. You have my admiration! JAG

Push pins are what was used to fasten the grill to the car. NPD or Virginia Mustang has the correct pins. I put a new grill in last year and bought the push pins from the above vendors. The grill does not move. It is a tight fit. JAG

I ran into the same problem. I do not think you can get those little clips...at least i could not find them. My dash is back in my car so I can't send a picture, but I will try and describe what I did. I took 4 pieces of banding steel and bent the outer leg in the shape of an "L" The inner portion has to be short to avoid the rergister when it turns. I bent it back down next to the long legb of the "L" and then clipped a right angle cut in the band. I turned this small cut in towards the plastic register. This is the portion that keeps the new clip from sliding off the register. If this is totally confusing. I can sketch up what I did and post a picture. By the way my register has not slide forward yet and its been a year JAG

This is a question regarding halogen lights. I put my first pair in my 69 Mach 1 in 1975. I did not have any problems with circuits popping out. On My 1970 Mach 1 I have halogen lights and again there are no external relays. Have I been lucky or is this the way most cars end up? JAG

This is just a tip on electrical contacts. Never sand paper them. You can end up leaving very small grains of sand in the contact and actually make the connection worse. What has always worked for me is a #2 pencil eraser. It takes the corrosion off without removing the conductive surface. I used to use this many years ago in electronic repair. JAG

Thanks for the reply BuckeyeDemon. I had found that page and my bottom does look like that. However two of the three studs are out of position. That is not a big problem. I measured my base and from the bottom to where the shaker mid plate sits and it is 4.25 ". That dimension does not fit any dimension on the Boss 302 site. I was hoping someone could measure their shaker base from bottom to the flange where the mid plate sits and give me a dimension. That will let me know what I have to do to this shaker bottom. JAG

I have a Torino shaker base. I want to use it with an original shaker upper half and an original Ford 4 bbl intake. I have been told that the Torino base is taller than the correct mustang base. Can anyone tell me how much taller or what the correct height on a stock Windsor base might be? If someone has done this before, I would take any and all recommendations. Thanks JAG

Something that has worked for me is the Ultrasonic pest deterents. I have plugged it into the end of the extension cord and put it near the car. I have not had any visitors for three years. Another "remedy" is to put mothballs around your tires. Another has said to put Stay Soft dryer sheets in your car. I don't know how the last two work.....but so far I am happy with the ultrasonic unit. JAG

Cramer, you can get an accelerator cable from Mustangs Unlimited it is on page 82 of this years catalog. It says they are original accelerator cables. I don't believe this cable is reproduced. Does anyone else know? JAG

In the 70's I put Cyclone Headers on my 351 with FMX transmission. They fit, but they were tight. I don't know if the Dynomax Cyclone headers are the same though. Sorry I can't help more. JAG

Whats the condition of your heater core? I always ran hot and then the heater core went out. i put a new core in and it runs much cooler. The core can be a big restriction as it gets older. JAG

Whats the condition of your heater core? I always ran hot and then the heater core went out. i put a new core in and it runs much cooler. The core can be a big restriction as it gets older. JAG

Well I used the dawn and hot water to clean the grill and then painted it......when dry naturally. It came out very well. I am pleased with the results. Thanks for all the great tips on getting the grill painted. JAG

I'm getting ready to paint my new reproduction 70 grill. What does evryone do to get the new plastic ready to accept paint? What chemicals does everyone use to get rid of any mold release powders, chemicals, etc.? Thanks JAG

My 69 Mach 1 hood blackout was painted from the factory. The decals for hoods started in 1970. I remember because I had new quarters put on in 1974 because they had already rusted out. Ithen had the car repainted. The body man painted the flat black out but put a vinyl pin strip around the black out instaed of painting it. I was not happy and made him change it so it looked like an original......painted again. JAG

I would say you probably have lost the ground to the fuel meter. That will make the guages peg. JAG

I think I am going to try HC12A. I have read some articles on it and it sounds promising. Has anyone else have an opinion onb HC12A? I have not seen anything on R409A. JAG

Well I have been abvle to work on the heater core.......I have a question for everyone who answered my original post. Do you have factory A/C? I do and it just keeps getting worse the more I get into it. I do believe I will have to take out the dash to get that heater core box out. I think the A/C puts alot more height on the box. Hoping I missed something here! JAG

Classic Auto air is all out and they say I'll just have to rob of an old car. I appreciate all these ideas. jag

I forgot......if anyone has a picture of what the clip looks like, I would like to see it! Thanks again JAG