jag

From your post it is hard to tell but it sounds like the bendix in the starter went bad. That was uncommon in the day. JAG

Thanks FordRevHead That is a really fast reply. Hope I can help you some time! JAG

Thanks FordRevHead That is a really fast reply. Hope I can help you some time! JAG

Thanks FordRevHead That is a really fast reply. Hope I can help you some time! JAG

I searched the archives and the ebay location that had templates for sale no longer is on ebay. Does anyone know where I can get a template to cut the hood for the shaker? Thanks JAG

I searched the archives and the ebay location that had templates for sale no longer is on ebay. Does anyone know where I can get a template to cut the hood for the shaker? Thanks JAG

I searched the archives and the ebay location that had templates for sale no longer is on ebay. Does anyone know where I can get a template to cut the hood for the shaker? Thanks JAG

The movement of the stud and the extension of the steering cyclinder should happen almost simultaneously. Other wise you get steering wheel movement and no movement of the wheels. That equals sloppy steering. jag

I say your power steering valve needs to be rebuilt. Your steering is loose, isn't it? jag

On my 70 another easy place would be the wire that originally ran the carburator anti diesel solenoid. JAG

Put a couple of the ultrasonic 120v plugins in the garage. It sounds hokey but they work. I have used them for three years and no problems. I tried it when a guy put one in his combine and he had no mice. I combine gets grain all over it when stored and if that will keep out mice that is good enough for me. I've had great success with these plugins. JAG

Put a couple of the ultrasonic 120v plugins in the garage. It sounds hokey but they work. I have used them for three years and no problems. I tried it when a guy put one in his combine and he had no mice. I combine gets grain all over it when stored and if that will keep out mice that is good enough for me. I've had great success with these plugins. JAG

I knnow of a couple of people that have "fixed" their clocks by spraying down the mechanical gears with WD 40. The movemnets do dry out after all this time. These guys still have working clocks after 3yrs......give it a try. What do youhave to lose. It is not working now. JAG

In the mid seventies I had that happen to me. The brake line rusted thru and that caused a pressure difference. The ball then shifts to the lower pressure side. That puts the light on. Once the problem of what caused the low presure is solved and all air is bled out, the ball should re-center it self when you push on the brake pedal. There is always a chance that since the valve is now 40 + years old, it may be stuck and may need to be replaced. JAG

There was a factory ram air option in 1970 that used the 4 pie cutouts and gasketing around the outside of the air cleaner. I have a friend that had one. These were like the 1968 ram air options. This is not to be confused with the shaker ram air option. I assume they did the same in 1969 for the mustang. JAG

Pak and all....Thanks for the replies to my email. I will see how it feels after the alignment JAG

Pak in a previous email you gave the following specs: Here's the specs you want to provide the alignment shop with for a stock Mustang: 1/4* positive caster, 3/4* positive camber and 3/16" toe in. If you have a Shelby drop then the optimal setting instead is: 2* positive caster, 0* to 1* negative camber and 1/8" toe in. __________________ Pak I am curious where the values have come from. They are all in the range given by Ford in the stock OEM literature. Is this what you have found to work the best? I am about to get my car aligned this Friday. Thanks JAG

I had a somewhat similiar experience however my experience was everything worked well until I put on the head lights and then only one turn signal would work. Turn off the headlights and everything would work again. I installed a new turn signal flasher and every thing works fine. If you have not changed this, do it. It is a cheap way to rule that out of the equation. JAG

Just so you know, there is non conductive dielectric grease and there is conductive dielectric grease. You should know which one you have. A sloppy job with conductive grease and you risk the chance of shorting the wire to ground through the grease. JAG

After taking a suggestion fron S Code 69 regarding head lights I started to look for a common electrical feed for both the starter and head lights. Both these systems are feed from the same electrical wire according to the electrical wiring diagram. This feed comes from the starter solenoid relay. I felt underneath the stud where the solenoid relay hooks to the battery and I found the main 12 volt feed wire had broken off at the connector. A new connector was installed and it works great. Thank for all who helped me think about different alternatives. You made my trouble shooting much quicker. JAG

The problem is solved!! After taking a cue from S Code 69 I looked for the common point of the headlights and the starter in the wiring diagram. The power feed for both circuits, electrically, is the same and comes from the battery side of the starter solenoid relay. I felt under there and the wire had broken off at the wire connector. The car starts great again. Thank you for everyones help in solving this problem. JAG

Clarification is always good. I can start the car every time by shorting the plus side of the battery to the start terminal of the starting motor relay as it is called on the wiring diagram. I plan to do voltage checks tomorrow. Has anyone ever run across a "Dash panel disconnect"? I brought this up because according to the wiring diagram, power for the headlights comes through this before it gets to the head light switch. Oh isn't this fun! I'd rather be driving.... JAG JAG

I probably was unclear. The battery is fine. It starts when I put a jumper wire from the battery side of the started solenid in the engine compartment to the start terminal on that same solenoid. The battery connections are clean. JAG

The engine ground is new and fine. If the gound was gone I don't think I could jump arounf the key start switch and start the car. After thinking iabout it, it can't be a fuse either since it started once normally after the initial failure. Do the courtesy lights run through the key switch circuits? I am wondering if the original switch may be starting to become intermittant. JAG

I bought a new dash made with Ford tooling. I am very happy with it. I would do it again. Fit is great and it looks good. JAG