jag

I recently did a shaker conversion on a 70 mach 1 351 W. It turned out great. That being said I would buy a OEM base anytime I find one. It is what is supposed to be there. I would say get the OEM base and you know it will be 100% correct. JAG

I noticed no one answered you. The spring is attached to the ss trim ring and it is attached on the other end. I can't remember to what. It should be obvious though. It is a tough job to get the spring attached. That spring holds the light assembly tight. I know I had to attach the spring to the trim ring and then work it over the sealed beam. It is not easy. Good luck JAG

I noticed no one answered you. The spring is attached to the ss trim ring and it is attached on the other end. I can't remember to what. It should be obvious though. It is a tough job to get the spring attached. That spring holds the light assembly tight. I know I had to attach the spring to the trim ring and then work it over the sealed beam. It is not easy. Good luck JAG

I have this very problem and I did think about the above option I posted and I know it will work well. The other idea is to solve the problem when in the car. I have thought about this approach and please weigh in on the viability. Get a tube of correct diameter. Cross drill holes on one end, alternating in heights. This is to get the water out of the case when the tubes sticks through the wall. You then will have to fiber glass or epoxy the tube to the outside of the case. I think this will also work......comments

You can use bulk head nipples if your case is out of the car. I would put the nipple in from the inside and epoxy the inside nipple surface to the case(make it water tight...the outside will get a threaded nut to hold the nipple). You just need to get a nipple of the correct size to take the rubber drain hole. If it is still in you car, this will not be a workable solution. JAG

My 69 Mach 1 did not have retractable seat belts. They were held when not in use by the console. It had two spots for the belt ends. This was in 1974. JAG

Another alternative is to use Freeze 12. I do not have experience with this, but you just put it in like R12. Do a search and decide whether you would go this route. JAG

That may not be the entire problem but it sounds like the wiper that rubs the rheostat is worn and moving it makes it touch the rheostat completing the circuit momentarily. If it is an original switch replace it and eliminate it as a possibility. 40 years is longenough for a switch. JAG

69 & 70s came with the stainless steel screws in the carpet. The screws also had a small washer that was like half a donut. These were all stock items. JAG

Tripdawg I did not notice your post until now. I was in the very spot you are at now. I sent my control valve out to be rebuilt. That solved my problem. The car drives great now. JAG

Tripdawg I did not notice your post until now. I was in the very spot you are at now. I sent my control valve out to be rebuilt. That solved my problem. The car drives great now. JAG

There is also another cause that comes into play. I had just noticed 3 small cracks on my power steeing bracket that holds the end of the cylinder. This is the non stock bracket to lower the cylinder for header installation. I had been hearing small snaps once and awhile , only associated with turning of the wheels. The rest of the bracket had been welded to the frame. Once the small cracks were welded. the steering was noticeably tighter. I was amazed since I could hardly see the cracks and they were very short. Most of the bracket had great welds. If this bracket is not really tight, the entire area flexes when the wheel is turned. This illustrates the extra force that the longer power steering bracket is subjected to over a shorter stock bracket....... Check this area! JAG

There is also another cause that comes into play. I had just noticed 3 small cracks on my power steeing bracket that holds the end of the cylinder. This is the non stock bracket to lower the cylinder for header installation. I had been hearing small snaps once and awhile , only associated with turning of the wheels. The rest of the bracket had been welded to the frame. Once the small cracks were welded. the steering was noticeably tighter. I was amazed since I could hardly see the cracks and they were very short. Most of the bracket had great welds. If this bracket is not really tight, the entire area flexes when the wheel is turned. This illustrates the extra force that the longer power steering bracket is subjected to over a shorter stock bracket....... Check this area! JAG

Fordrevhead you have described the wheel options correctly.It been many years since I have thought about the subject. The pictures and explanation are as I also remember it. JAG

Fordrevhead you have described the wheel options correctly.It been many years since I have thought about the subject. The pictures and explanation are as I also remember it. JAG

I cannot remember the correct name for the 1970 staock wheels.I will attempt to describe them. The wheel was steel with a beauty ring similiar to the 1969. It had a inner flat, slightly concave dog dish style of hub cap that had the same finish as the beauty rings. I always liked them but most people did not. These were not wheels many people kept. Because of that thesewheels are now fairly rare. JAG

I cannot remember the correct name for the 1970 staock wheels.I will attempt to describe them. The wheel was steel with a beauty ring similiar to the 1969. It had a inner flat, slightly concave dog dish style of hub cap that had the same finish as the beauty rings. I always liked them but most people did not. These were not wheels many people kept. Because of that thesewheels are now fairly rare. JAG

The stock factory wheel on both 69 and 70s was a 14 " rim. I bought my 69 Mach used in 1973...it had a chromed steel wheel spare that matched the other four. I suspect if you had a Boss 429 it would have been a stock 15" Magnum 500. I believe that was also the case in 1970. I believe all the big blocks got 15" if they were ordered with Magnum 500s. The stock wheels were always 14" unless ordered with Magnum 500 wheels. JAG

The stock factory wheel on both 69 and 70s was a 14 " rim. I bought my 69 Mach used in 1973...it had a chromed steel wheel spare that matched the other four. I suspect if you had a Boss 429 it would have been a stock 15" Magnum 500. I believe that was also the case in 1970. I believe all the big blocks got 15" if they were ordered with Magnum 500s. The stock wheels were always 14" unless ordered with Magnum 500 wheels. JAG

I also had a sloppy system. The easiest way to eliminate the control valve is to start the car open the drivers door and look at the control valve stud. Lay on the ground and use your right hand to turn the wheel. You should see the stud start to move as soon as the wheel is turned. If it doesn't move I would look at the steering box. If the stud moves in unison with the steering wheel AND the wheels do not turn immediately, it is the control valve. JAG

Thanks for these suggestions. Hopefully I can try these tomorrow. JAG

Thanks for the suggestions. I did try rotating with no luck. I guess I'll have to keep trying. Have youbeen successful with rotating the shaft while hoilding the button Black 69 FB? JAG

Looking for ideas.... I push the pin in on the light switch body and the shaft still will not come out. Has anyone had this happen to them and what did you do? Any help is appreciated. JAG

A plastic spolier was the spoiler you got when you ordered a spoiler from the Ford dealer in 1973. To the best of my knowledge plastic spoilers are the originals. JAG

Sorry on the previous post . I ment to say that was not that uncommon in the day..... JAG