Angel

I'll try to get it off this weekend. I don't mind shipping. I normally ship through USPS but I assume UPS can also ship it. I'll get back to you.

Are you in a rush? My car is a non a/c car and I'll be installing a vintage air system when the time comes. I won't need my original blower. At least I don't think I will. If I'm correct, then I'll have no need for it. The car is completely taken apart right now and I can pull the motor in a few hours if not minutes. I used to use it all the time so I know it's in good working order.

I don't have much on my build but you should check out this build from another member. Lots of helpful info there. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=8636&page=27

I'm currently doing this swap. Ive got the towers cut and am half way through installing the rod & custom mustang 2 style suspension. I have a 2003 cobra engine and transmission waiting to go in. It's a lot of work and can get expensive if you can't do the work yourself. So far, the most expensive part of the swap is the front suspension. For me at least. A lot of people will say it's not worth it because of cost or whatever. In my case, financially, it's worth it because the whole swap (including engine/trans) will be cheaper than the 408 stroker I was initially planning to build. My car will be a daily driver again. So I'll get great drivability, reliability, and decent gas mileage out of the swap. Not to mention power that will rival a 408w.

Wow. I was expecting it to weigh more. How much would you guess the engine weighs? Nice car too!

Congratulations man!!! She's definitely a keeper. Both of them haha!

I'm salivating. Sooo sexy!!

What are you going to do for speakers? Most speakers come with grills.

Yeah I figured that's how it was done. It's definitely an economical way of doing it. However, you still might be missing out on some of the benefits of buying an actual export brace. The original two piece braces weren't very good at keeping the towers in place. With time, they usual collapse a bit towards the engine. The one piece export braces are built to OE spec and usually do not bolt on without first unloading the suspension and allowing the towers to return to their original position. Your brace is now keeping them from further collapsing but it is not locating the towers where they should be. They are still in their collapsed state. Assuming they haven't been repaired and reinforced to avoid this already. In either case, what you have is better than nothing. I bought a new export brace from a member years ago for $15. But even at $50-70, it's still worth it to upgrade.

How low is your car? In comparison to stock height.

Out of curiosity, can you explain how this was done? I know you used some kind of bar or tube to join the two braces together. But did you remove the braces first or were you able to just weld it in place?

It actually doesn't look too bad in the second picture. But the side shot is just odd.

Chuck, I had the Shelby drop before cutting the towers out. You'll still run into the same issue. The upper control arm would have to dropped close to the frame rail for it to clear. Remember that there is less space between the towers the lower you go. Iirc, the distance between the tops of the towers is about 29-30". You lose at least 2" as you get closer to the upper control arm.

I went with a mustang 2 style suspension because getting the valve cover off would've been a real pain with the top of the tower in the way.

I think the dynamat kit is 36 sq. Ft. That will do the floor and then some. But to do the whole interior, you'll need at least 2 packages.

You'll need a strut style suspension that eliminates the upper control arm if you want to keep the towers. The space required to fit the modular is where the upper control arm bolts to the tower. That is the widest part of the engine.

The coyote is about the same width as a 4 valve 4.6. Im planning to install a mod in my coupe. I installed a rod & custom mustang2 suspension to make room for the engine. I have the engine and trans from a 2003 cobra but I'm on the fence on whether to sell it and go coyote, or use it. Dougs makes coyote swap headers for the 69-70 mustang. They might fit older mustangs but I know for sure they will work on ours because I looked into it. The 4.6 is about 28" wide at the widest point. The 5.4 gt500 engine is about 30". Both of those will fit if you cut the towers so the coyote will too.

Anyone running a "big brake" kit in the rear? I have 11.65" rear rotors from a 2003 cobra and I was wondering if anyone has a larger diameter rotor in the back? My rear rotors look kinda small with the 18"s in the back. I know it's not necessary, but I would love a larger brake set up in the rear.

That stuff looks damn good!

Oh god, I haven't done anything to this car!!!! Haha. Well very little progress has been made on this thing. Mainly, the rear suspension and rear end is back on the car. But that's about it. Ive been focusing on other things for the past couple of months and the mustang hasn't been a big priority. Anyway. A few months ago I ended up selling the 2001 cobra engine and got me a 2003 cobra engine and trans for cheap. So the plan was to install that engine and t56 trans into the 69. Engine is all stock and has 50k miles. However, I have yet to see this engine installed in a 69 with a stock hood. I dont want to have to use a cowl hood for this swap. So that's where this project is at. Im hoping to work on this a lot more over summer when school is out.

The length of the bar is actually fairly close to the sn95 bar. The problem is that the m2 bar is much flatter that the sn95. I compared my m2 bar to a 2003 cobra bar and if I were to install the cobra bar, the front would hang too low. I'm in the middle of installing the m2 bar so I might just play with the cobra bar and see how it actually fits.

Bump!

Vhx series is fairly new. They look like regular analog sweep style gauges but with digital internals. I'm not a fan of their original gauges though. I like seeing the needles move. Here's a link to the VHX gauges. http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=791/category_id=671/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd791.htm

I plan to buy those when the project gets there. They look sweet!

The sway bar design is different on the m2 suspension. The largest I've seen anywhere for the m2 is a 1". If you find a larger one somewhere, let me know. I had a 1 1/8" bar on the original suspension. I would like to run something like that again to match my rear 7/8" bar.