Cruzzar

If you go the power mirror proposition, the pass side being a remotely operated should offer two bosses for mounting the servo (if it is like the driver's side) which would make it a lot easier that the single boss found in the manual mirrors that come stock on the Mustang.

Here's what I used. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=12096&highlight=shifter+handle

Vintage Air http://www.vintageair.com/catalog.asp has a Sanden 508 compressor that has a back plate rear exit if that is not what you already have (pg. 64 in their catalogue). They may be able to sell you just the back plate if that will help you. They also have 90 degree tight fittings (pg. 65). If you have questions regarding clocking your existing compressor they may be able to help you. I have found them to be very helpful.

As a start you could put a level on the side of the rim and set the rim so that it is verticle by changing to a different hole position. Put some folded trash bags under the tire each time you set it down so that it will settle and not have some preload on it. You could even bounce it up and down a little. This will set the camber initially until you can get it to an alignment shop.

Isn't there a small plastic insert (from your original cable) that goes in the hole where the slot is on the gas pedal? Can the stainless clevis in the center picture be removed from the cable leaving just a ball that is swedged onto the end of it. If this is all correct so far, I think the ball will fit into the placsic insert.

Front lip was bent almost to the point of touching the fender. Real lip was bent up from horizontal to about 70 degrees. There is no horizontal lip left (it rotated around the outside fender). To bend it any further would take a lot of force and I'm not sure it would not start to deform the outside of the fender.

I found that I did not have to cut any notches when I rolled my front fenders nor when I folded the rear wheel wells although I used a body dolly to fold the rears. You dont have to fold the rear lips all the way back to the inner wheel well. Trimming the rear wheel lips up to the spot welds provides additional room for tire clearance. You only have to gain a small amount of room as the tire will make contact with the inner wheel well as it travels vertically. The inner wheel well does not follow the outer fender contour tightly in this area.

I've not tried it but could you put a small hose clamp around the end and tighten it down and collapse the SS braided threads down enough to get the ferril over the end.

Did they weld the edge of the inner well to the edge of the fender lip? Originally these were spot welded and one could trim the inner lip's (two sheet metal layers) up to where the spot welds were. This would give you somewhere about 3/8 to 1/2 inch of additional wheel room. I guess you could always find someone who has a spot welder and spot weld together and then trim them. They can be rolled but with some difficulty because of the thickness. Remember, you only have to roll the fender from about the 10 o'clock to the 2 o'clock position where the tire would make contact under compression. If you have not got the final paint on the car I would use a relative flat body dolly and gradually work the lips up manually, working slowly back and forth, being careful not to bend the outside fender detail. Another way is to use a baseball bat to gradually roll the lip up. Either way you will have to have the car entirely back together to provide enought weight pushing down to effectively use either method. On the front fenders you might want to to first trim the inner fender lip like they did on the Boss 302s. Measure up 9" along the front fender lip starting from where the fender lip meets the front valance. The lip should be about 1" wide in this area. Starting at the 9" point, trim off about 1/2" of the lip back about 19". This provides additional tire cleanance if left alone. If you choose to roll the fender lip after this trimming, it makes it easier to roll as a result of less metal to stretch in the rolling process. Again, you only have to roll this area (from the 9" mark to the additional 19") for tire clearance under compression. I not sure about your moldings since I have never had any experience with them. Good luck. My $.02.

Does your car have a Versaille rear end? Those type of rubber cushions are found on the Versaille rear ends. I don't recall a mustang having that type of rubber cushion but I could be wrong.

Do a search on 'you tube' for rolling your fenders. Most guys will use a heat gun to preheat the wheel lip to soften the paint but this is sometimes not successful and the paint cracks!

If I recall correctly you will have to cut a notch out of one side of the u-shaped seal so it will fit around the studs properly.

Mike, one nice thing I found with having the electric mirrors is when backing into a parking slot that is next to a curb is that you can angle the mirror down and see the area next to the rear tire so you don't rub your tires or rims. NIce job.

I running 18x8 front, 18x10 on back Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Here's a pic. of my '70 firewall showing the spring and tab. The tap should already be on the firewall and the z-bar (clutch linkage) should have a hole in it for the spring. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

It's a tilt column out of a '75 Ford Galaxy that I adapted (with some amount of work) the '70 ignition switch onto so I could use the stock ignition switch's wireing plug. The mounting points on the column matched the stock '70 column's u-shaped bracket. I had to shave the plastic column surround that fits up to the bottom of the dash panel. Even thou I used a Ron Francis wiring kit if the switch ever goes out I can replace it with a stock switch. The steering wheel is out of a late '70s F150 if I recall correctly. It has the stock leather wrapped wheel.

I have a TKO 500 in my '70FB and I used a Hurst stick from Summit. Part # HUU-5387436. If you look at the specs it shows the lay back, length and offset. Its comfortable for me but you might want a little more heigth or lay back. You can check the various selections by going into the specs for each of the shifters. Here's some pics of my car. The shifter is in the neutral position in all of the pics. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

This link may give you an idea of what to look for. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=6148&highlight=rear+view+mirror

Mantech, I put a set of '87 T-bird turbo seats which I believe are the same as the later model GT seats in my '70. I did lower the seat pans about 3/4" to get a little bit more room. I am about 6' and feel real comfortable with these seats. They are fully reclineable and allow me to get my head/eyes at a desired height. If yor are a NSRA member, they did an article on my car in the latest issur of Street Sceen on pg. 132. They have better pics than I do. If not a member, here's a pic.

Someone makes a right angle drive for a standard speedo drive. This should allow you to attach your electrical pulse generator. I want to say that some of the corvettes had them. It is a 1to1 ratio so it has no effect on the final drive ratio. It has a male thread on one end and a female on the other. Just screw it on the trans and screw on your drive (mechanical or electrical).

Yes, single loop, no additional bracing.

Here's a suggestion on how to attach the upper shoulder harness pivot to the roll bar. I welded another bracket similiar to the original bar's upper bracket and made an aluminum spacer that fit between them and used a longer bolt to attach the shoulder belt bracket to it. This allows the shouldber belt to pivot as designed. Without spacing the bracket pivot out it would bind up.Here's a pic but you can't see the new bracket that I installed because it is behind the plastic belt pivot. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Miketyler, I would suggest that you obtain the mirror control switches from the donar car that you take the servos from. I used the same power control switch from the Acura that I took the servos from. This switch is nothing more than a 4 wire to each mirror that controls two servos in each mirror by reversing the current to adjust up and down, back and forth and could probably be used to run other makes' of servos. Here is a pic of my switch in the center counsel.

Thanks for all of the complements guys. I got the NSRA Streetscene Pick. There will be some pics of it in their monthly magazine in a few months when they cover the Western Nationals event in Bakersfield.

Prayers1, the fronts are 18x8 with 245/40/18 and the rears are 18x10 with 275/40/18. I had the rear housing narrowed 1 1/4" on each side to give the rear wheels a little more reverse.