Cruzzar

I've never done a conversion but one of the biggest obstacles was obtaining all of the brackets to support the new roof section since these were not being sold by suppliers and therefor you had to get them from a donar vehicle. If the "kit" you are getting has these then you should be good as to getting it back together and being structurally sound. For pictures of how to approach it you might check out You Tube, I thought I saw a segment on doing a '66 coupe to fastback conversion.

Here's a pic from a previous post. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=10214&highlight=cowl

Here's a previous post. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=10683&highlight=door+speaker+location

I'm not sure which welded flange you're referring to because the addition of pie section necessitates moving and squaring off the original angled section that a BFH usually takes care of. With this mod, the distances between the tire and the inner wheel sheet metal is about the same as between the tire and the lower 4 bar from the Ride Tech suspension. Any additional clearance would require both to be moved.

I'm running 275/40/18s on 18 x 10 rims. Probably could have gone to a 285 possibly 295 without rubbing issues. My car sits about 2" lower than stock (Ride Tech all around) but have not had any rubbing issues when push hard around turns with current set up.

Here's a pic of how I pie cut my rear wheel wells to make the inside sheet metal parallel with the side of the tire.

Kris, the stock plug that you currently have in your car for the two speed wiper motor should be a direct plug-in to the new intermittent switch/governor that you are installing.

This might help. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=7987&highlight=wiper+switch

Thank you all for the kind comments. BigDuke6, I had the engine built pretty tame since I drive the car whenever I go to a show or gathering. On the engine dyno it put out 496hp @ 5400 rpm and 553 lbs. ft. of torque at 3900 rpm. I have yet to take it to the drags to see how it would perform. It has plenty of grunt and can make things happen at a pretty fast rate. I tell people that it's the car I wish I had when I was 16 but glad I didn't because I probably would not be alive today. The article had only a couple of mistakes, it had me as 48 yrs. old (I'll be 65 in March) and I live in Visalia, Ca. as posted on my sign-in.

Someone asked a while ago to let them know when the article on my car was posted online and I just noticed that it is now on their website. http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/1310_1970_ford_mustang/

With the right wheel setback and tire combination, some lip adjustment, and inner wheel well mods in the back you can fit 8s and 10s and still run pretty low without any rubbing or interferences. Here is a link to check out. Look at the last two photos on the second page to see ride height and on the stops comparisons. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=9821&highlight=cruzzar

I have no pictures but I welded a flat sheet metal plate across the area where the standpipe used to be but I left the cowl vent as it was stock and installed a vintage air heat and cool under the dash. I did leave the side fresh air vents operational.

If the rest of your suspension is in good shape you might be able to remove some of the play in the box. Jack up the front end so the tires are off the ground. On your steering box you will find a threaded shaft with a nut locking it in position. Loosen the nut and you will be able to turn the threaded shaft and by doing so you will either tighten up the distance between the gears inside the box or loosen them some more. Do your adjustment and then turn the wheels lock to lock to see if your are making any improvement. Your box's gears are worn more in the center of the gears than at the extremes because that is where most of your driving is done. You may or may not be able to make any improvement by trying this adjustment. Adjust it a little and then turn lock to lock. You may be able to tighten up the box in the middle where the gears are worn more but have the gears get too tight at the extremes and have the box lock up. This is why you need to turn the wheels lock to lock after each adjustment to see how tight you are getting the gears. Once adjusted be sure to tighten the lock nut around the adjusting shaft when done. I hope this helps.

No, that is not my car, mine is a '70 not a '69 (but this '69 is really nice). The article on my car is not on the Popular Hotrodding website yet, only on the newsstand or if you get a subscription.

prayers1, To see a pic of how the dash came out you can ckeck out the latest issue (Oct.) of Popular Hotrodding. They did a nice article on it with lots of pictures.

bomccorkle, I just returned from a week's stay in beautiful Michigan for a friend's son's wedding so this is a little late in response. The tilt-column that I am using is from a '75 Ford LTD that I found at Pic-a-Part ($40). I had to do some mods to mount the stock '70 ignition switch (the '75 used a different switch) onto the '75 column and also delete the gear selector lever slot.

This should help. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=11390&highlight=front+fender+mount

The rear view mirror that I installed in my '70 had map lights for both the driver and passenger. Both of these map lights come on when the doors were opened and function as a dome light.

Here's a link that might help. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=6148&highlight=interior+dome+light

If you wanted to put a dome light in you could get a interior rear view mirror from a 5.0 mustang convertible which has the dome light as well as map lights for both driver and passenger integrated into the bottom of the light. I uses the same glue on foot that attaches to the windshield of the stock mirror. A retrofit would involve getting the wires up to and under the headliner but no welding of brackets to the underside of the roof for the dome light. It also has the day/night switch.

Does your car have a rear end from a Lincoln Versailles because they also used the rubber insulators on the rear leaf springs.

Sorry I don't have a picture but If I recollect correctly the two slotted holes attach to the metal supports on the left side of the opening for the column. The stud should face downwards and it is used to attach the left side column's flange on. The flange I am referring to is the u-shaped metal structure the bolts to the column and is used to hold the column to the underside of the dash. I hope this makes sense. Hopefully someone had a picture.

If you want to do some work you can adapt a later model tilt column to your '70. I used a tilt column out of a '75 Galaxy. Good points-- the column bracket was exactly the same as my '70, it uses a Ford key. Bad points--you will have to connect the new column's wires with your '70s, it uses a different ignition switch than the '70s, I was installing a TCP rack and pinion at the same time and therefore had to shorten and install the new bearing retainer on the end of the column. I also had to remove and fill in the hole left by removing the shifter (donar was an automatic) and trim the plastic collar. I wanted to use my stock '70 ignition switch so I modified the new column to accept the old switch (had to weld in some studs to hold the switch in correct position. This is not an easy install but I does work. Here's some pics. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

The one importang thing to remember is after you get the glass loose it is removed by moving it thru the small opening in the top trailing edge of the door. You have to remove the rubber pad that is held on with three? screws and it will slide out. I don't think it can be removed by pulling it out the top window slot with the bracket install on the bottom of the glass. Just my $.02

The hood latch mechanism for the early 1970s Ford F150 is an exact replacement for the 69/70 Mustang but it is a remote operated that uses a cable that extends to under the dash. It still has the safty latch mechanism but it can not be used to open the hood, you must use the cable to unlatch it. I can't tell you exactly what years but you can remove the latch mechanism from your car (two bolts on the radiator support) and take it to your local pick-n-pull and match it up with a remote off of a pickup. Yor don't need the latch bar that is on the hood because it is the same as your mustang's. I hound a cable that was long enough to fit next to my brake release lever. Here's some pics. Uploaded with ImageShack.us