rangerdoc

My 15x7s have 4.25 and they hit. I added a 1/4" spacer and did a little grinding at all is better. But I know others who have 4.25 with no issues. I don't know what the deal was with my car. Edit: Nevermind-misread your wheel size. But you'll love the minilites. I have them and have never seen another mustang at a show with them.

Different. When I first look at it and focus on just the inner lights it reminds me of a '71.

Yes sir, at least I run mine that way.

I would just get an open 1" spacer.

Sounds like you're getting a fuel soak situation. Basically, the heat from the engine gets transferred through the carb and the fuel in the bowl heats up and actually boils, which in turn causes fuel to go into the carb and you end up with a flooded carb. If you're not running a spacer get a phenolic spacer, which will help reduce the heat transfer. An aluminum spacer won't necessarily fix the problem, thus the need for a phenolic spacer. Also, make sure the float level in your bowl isn't set too high, which can also add to the situation.

That thing is an almost exact copy of my car, minus the vinyl top. I'm sure someone could use some parts off it.

Never messed with it but I don't see why it wouldn't fit since a tri-power fits. Seems like it would be roughly the same height and length. I have a Holly 4 barrel, sitting on a 1" spacer and my oval air cleaner fits with that sitting on an adapter ring. Lots of space there. To be sure ask Summit or someone for the dimensions and then measure your car. And just to mess with you, a say get a tri-power vs the dual quad! ;)

I know why, it says it is for chevy trucks. Still good for us?

Thanks, I guess I remembered something else in my head so I didn't think that was it when I saw it.

Isn't there a special tool that sort of looks like a pair of pliers that is designed to help get the wiper arms off? I can't find it at any of the normal retail spots.

I noticed that too. But when you put it in your cart the correct image shows up.

I did all sorts of measuring, leveling, etc and the right rear is definitely higher. I ended up raising the left rear a bit using the second hole in my adjustable shackles. Not really what I want to do but it got the rear within about 1/2 inch. I guess someday I'll look into getting the frame straightened, but that is way, way down on the list of priorities.

I kept everything loose and tightened it up with the weight on the wheels.

I don't have subframe connectors. You think getting a pair welded in might help?

Yep and did all sorts of measuring, laser leveling, jacking, etc and I came to the conclusion the right rear is higher than the rest of the car. There was a minor right front collision at some point in the early life of the car that put a small crease in the right front diagonal piece that goes from the front frame rail to radiator support area. I don't know if that might have got things out of whack or not.

Took the car for a spin today. With the new carb and intake I can get the tires to bark when it shifts gears (C4). I also added a couple alignment shims under the engine mounts. For some reason, the fan was hitting the bottom of the shroud ever since I had the engine out for paint. Tried all sorts of things and couldn't figure it out. This seems to be the fix. Unfortunately, I still can't get the car to sit even in the back. I have a thread over at VMF about, but it looks like the frame is tweaked just enough so the right rear sits 3/4" higher than the left rear. I was really hoping the old leaf springs were the problem. So my next task is to figure out why I get what I feel like is binding when I turn the steering wheel to the left. The car drives fine, but something just doesn't "feel" right. Is there any way to check for binding in the steering linkage? This is all started after I put in the Borgeson system.

Welp, been away for awhile and since I got back I've been spending most of my time and money on my 2011 pony. Though I did get the new intake/carb setup and running. Today I finished installing new leaf springs and Bilstein shocks to match the front. For several years I've noticed the left rear was lower than the right rear. When I took off the old springs I was happy to see that the new springs should fix the problem (see picture). But, much to my disappointment the left now sits exactly level with the front and the right rear is now an inch higher than the other 3 corners. I didn't take measurements before so I can't verify exactly how it sat before today (though I seem to remember that it really was the left that was low). I do have adjustable shackles, so I could raise the left rear a bit, but then the setup wouldn't match in the back. Anyone have any ideas on lowering the right down an inch?

What Bob says. Here is a picture where mine connects near the front signals and then a picture where it connects to the scoop lights. The entire harness runs along the driver's side of the engine bay and then along the top of the firewall.

I did pretty much the same thing. I never had to remove the shaft but the new coupler rubbed against the column as well. I just shoved the steering shaft into the column and used a grinder to cut.

I say get the pump that is designed for the box. You can't really diagnose anything until you are using the system the way it was originally intended by Borgeson.

There is also a place in Colorado Springs called reincarnation. Not cheap, but they do great work.

Post #316 has the pictures. You can look for that model number on amazon.

Look at post number 316 in my build thread linked in my signature. You'll see how mine went.

Sorry for your loss. Dogs are awesome, especially Labs. Our next dog will be a chocolate lab. I've gone from 4 pets to 1 in just over a year. Sucks every time.

That's really nice. I didn't know such a thing existed.