rangerdoc

I'm running the Scott Drake version mid-eye leafs (whatever they really are) and coilovers up front. I have 69 specific street valved Bilstiens from StreetorTrack. By far the the shocks made the greatest difference. Went from KYB gas-adjust (too harsh), GR2 (comfy but vague and too bouncy). Love it with the current setup. I''m running taller tires than you, but even they didn't help with the KYBs. FWIW, I've tried various springs and shock combos on my '08 and '11 mustang as well. I found the shocks/struts to make the biggest difference vs the springs (as far as comfort goes). It isn't a coincidence I have Bilstiens on my '08 Bullitt.

Any chance some of you could post some links to these parts? -DCC Controller -tstat housing with bung -7 blade OEM clutch fan And will any of that work with a 24" stock radiator? Any alternator upgrade needed?

Here's a picture of mine with 15x7s, but you'll have a shorter tire, so about the same. SoT coilovers and mid-eye leafs.

Wow, that is a great looking car. I love the GT option and having a/c with a convertible is hard to find. If I were in the market I would probably buy that from you. I think the only thing hurting you for top dollar is that it is not original colors. That will detract the purists out there and limit your audience some. However, I also agree that no less than $30k should be the lower limit, assuming it is good in person as it is in the pictures. You can search ebay for completed auctions to see what other verts sold for and then do some educated adjustments for yours. This is the right time of year to do it.

I so wish...about the only thing I'd redo on my car...and I probably still will someday. Unless it was concours, of course. Has that ever been discussed? ;)

Sherwin Williams Mercedes flat black Ultra 1, U12739 Check out this link. Everything you ever wanted to know about hood painting. I printed it out for easier reading and reference. It's an August '98 article from Mustang Monthly. Page 3 starts the '69 era. At the very bottom they reference the Mercedes paint. http://photos.mustangsbymike.com/Mach-1-Hood

Hood stencil...don't forget to do your cowl. http://www.cjponyparts.com/mach-1-hood-stencil-paints-center-blackout-and-surrounding-pinstripe-1969/p/SKSH11/

I dealt with the same issues as you. I decided to do a semi-flat. However, because it doesn't have a clear or anything on top it really is a pain to take care of and it also shows the imperfections from driving more easily. If I were to do it again I would use the Mercedes paint (there is a thread about it on here someplace) that looks pretty original without the pitfalls of the flat black. Another option is to do a flat or semi flat clear over it. Many have done that with good success. I found my stencil on ebay! But that is also floating in a thread on here someplace.

I'm certainly no expert, but here is a thread where I helped someone just after doing my windows. Might be something useful in there for you. I consider this one of those projects to do once and only once...and correctly! http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/626914-1970-glue-glass-inside-shell-out.html

Perfect! My OEM felt finally gave up the ghost. Funny though, I was using the same Velcro stuff this weekend to dampen a vibration I had with my plastic package try.

I have the 90 degree knob and have trouble with it securing in the fitting because I can't route the cables to give me enough slack. I was told those are for '70 mustangs (don't know if that is true). If I did it again I'd get the straight version.

When I replaced my suspension and steering I kept the stock ps stuff and used the adaptor. I think it is 50/50 for whatever way you want. Part of the reason I did this was in case I needed to remove the Borgeson it would be easier to go back to stock ps. Also, don't get a roller idler arm. That will degrade your return to center. Try to get about 4* castor when all is done. I highly recommend some modern strut rods. Mine are Streetortrack. Don't be surprised if the ps hoses are a smidge too short. Lots of people have that problem and I don't know if the problem has been corrected yet. I just took the borgeson lines to napa and used the fittings to create longer hoses. Cost was minimal.

No problem with my hood. Though I don't drive it everyday.

Call Shaun at streetortrack.com He'll set you straight on that question and can sell you the properly valved Bilsteins as well.

Exact ditto for me! I also have his adj strut rods and Bilsteins on the rear.

Yeah, back when I tossed my OEM unit many moons ago I didn't realize the repops were so problematic. Had I known I would have taken a closer look at my OEM unit. Definitely worth taking a look at.

I read an article a while back, can't remember where, that showed a repop sender compared to an OEM unit and how the repop arm was bent different. This seems to attribute to most of the inaccuracies of the repops. After going through a couple myself, I bought a reconditioned OEM one from West Coast Classic Cougars.

I want your lower steering column cover if the tabs are intact. Maybe the A-pillar trim as well. But then again, it never hurts to try to sell it whole. Hate seeing the cars go to scrap. Even a grande is worth saving to someone. I redid my coupe, but I also know I won't ever sell it, so I don't care how much money is in it. I just enjoy playing with it without feeling guilty for not staying pure, which is not how I would feel if I had a Mach 1 or something similar.

All the above and I just want to 2nd the relay comment. That'll make a ton of difference and give you some safety piece of mind for the future. You can buy plug and play relays or make one yourself.

I've got on OEM compressor, mount, lines and a couple other pieces I'll let you have for cheap. The only down side is it is heavy so I'll have to look into shipping. If you're interested send me your zip code and I'll do some calculations for you.

I have them for a coupe. I'm guessing by your avatar that won't work for you?

Awesome, enjoy the build. Is that a Torino in the background?

Post is 2 years old and he hasn't been on in over a year.

I made a tester thanks to the instructions above. I still need to get a permanent knob and put on proper markings. Verified all the gauges work and made some minor adjustments to them to get them more accurate. I'm also ditching my repop fuel sending unit after finding a reconditioned OEM one.

The light green wire connects to the fan switch, the dark green goes into the bundle. Just not sure how to connect them on the micro switch.