Mike65

WOW!!! nice work there Ash, looks great. No the Explorer is the Sport, the 2 door model. The largest engine Ford put in the 2 door Sport was the 4.0 litre SOHC, that is what it has in it.

I have seen that one several times before.

I have seen that one several times before.

No the rear frame rails were for the most part in good shape with just a spot repair needed on the l/s rail.

No the rear frame rails were for the most part in good shape with just a spot repair needed on the l/s rail.

Welcome Ash, you have a really nice Mach-1 there. 69's are my favorite year Mustang. I am working on a 69 Coupe.

Welcome Ash, you have a really nice Mach-1 there. 69's are my favorite year Mustang. I am working on a 69 Coupe.

I like the look of the hood stripe on your Vert, did you use the Boss 302 striping measurements?.

I like the look of the hood stripe on your Vert, did you use the Boss 302 striping measurements?.

Dave here is the l/s headlight bucket after repairing it with the JB Weld steel stick grinding it, & sanding it smooth & then priming it.

Dave here is a pic of the l/d headlight bucket on the right & the l/s h/l bucket on the right to show what the tab should look like on the r/s bucket & what it is like on the l/s bucket that I have to repair.

Here it is with the new quarter skin fitted along with a new l/s door shell.

Here is a pic after removing the rest of the outer wheel house & fitting the new outer wheel house to the old inner & the new l/s trunk floor.

Here is a pic after cutting off most of the l/s quarter panel skin & most of the outer wheel house.

Here it is after replacing the tail light panel.

Yes I have a fair amount of the parts. I have the engine but need to build it, have the 5 spd trans, but need a clutch pedal, I have most of the interior, I need a front spoiler, & all the trim for the exterior. Right now just concentrating on the body work. Here is the pic from when I replaced the l/s trunk floor & the gas tank rear support panel.

Hello all after being here for over 7 years & seeing other builds I figured it is time for me to start one on my 69 Coupe. I aquired the 69 Coupe back in 2001, & when I aquired the car it was being used as a parts car stripped of almost anything useable. It was missing both doors, the interior except for the dash, the engine & the trans were long gone, & was missing one fender. After 4 moves & one failed business venture I am back working on the 69 Coupe. The Coupe was originally equipped with a 302, auto, 8" 2.79 rear, standard black interior, painted meadowlark yellow, & built in Metuchen, NJ on Nov 26th, 1968. My plans for the car are to make it a restomod, 331 stroker, 5 spd trans, 9" rear with 3.70 gears, painted green with black GT side stripes & a 1970 Mach-1 hood stripe with the Mach-1 hood scoop, front & rear spoilers. Black standard interior with 1970 Mustang high back buckets, center console & Mach-1 r/s dash panel with clock. As far as wheels & tires the wheels I had on my first Mustang were Ansen sprint slotted wheels & I want those or the 68/69 GT wheels with BFG T/A radials 235/60-15's. The wiring will be completely redone using an American auto wire kit for the 69 Mustang. I will get some pics put on soon. Mike.

Well here is the update on the headlight becket repair, the stuff works GREAT!!!. It is called JB Weld steel stick. It is like Pak said about the dia of a roll of quarters & is gray in color with a black center. What I did is get a couple washers that would take up most of the missing area of the corroded tab on the headlight bucket. Keeping 1 washer whole & cutting down the other washer to make up the missing area of the tab I glued them together using Locktite super glue gel. After the 2 washer were glued together I glued them to the bucket where the corroded was making up the basis of the new tab. Then I cut off a piece of the steel stick & worked it to a uniform black color then just started covering the washers I glued to the bucket. Once the washers were completely covered with the steel stick I let it cure for about 1 hour & it felt just like the metal bucket. Then I just ground it smooth & the a little hand sanding & primer & it looks almost perfect. Once it is put together no one will know it was repaired. It anyone missed my earlier post I got the steel stick at Home Depot in the paint dept where they have all the adhesives & glues. Thanks for the tip on this stuff Pak. I will take some pics tomorrow & post them ASAP. Mike.

I am in the process of replacing the outer wheel house on my 69 Coupe. I used the dynacorn piece & on preliminary fitting it seems to be ok. Mike.

No the 70 Mustangs had the ignition switch on the column & did not have the lighted switch that I am aware of. Sorry Mike that "funky" red plug doesnt look factory to me?:confused1:

You could have a bad shock, loose sway bar end link or sway bar mount at the frame, or a loose or worn strut rod bushing.

Went to Home Depot today to pick up a new bathroom vanity & checked in the paint dept & found made by JB Weld it is called steel stick, steel reinforced epoxy putty stick. I will let you all know how it wors out. Mike.

Those were GREAT, thanks for sharing.

Thanks alot Pak thats what I needed to know. Mike.

Thanks Pak, do you know where you got it? Auto parts store, Home Depot? Mike.