Burn

It was 3 years ago and a 30 mile round trip.

If you want to do a true budget rebuild then tear it down and replace the rings, bearings, gaskets and anything that's worn. It's not a bad little combo, but I'd change the intake to a Edelbrock Performer (idle -5500rpm) and get the matching cam and lifters. Your heads probably still have pressed in rocker arm studs, so that limits your max rpm and cam selection. Max lift for stock springs I think are around .480. If you go with a higher lift cam and sustain high Rpms the studs could back out. Another option is to find a Ford 5.0 roller motor that's running and swap it in your car. Stock ones are good for about 225HP & 300ftlbs TQ. It may be a little more once you add your intake manifold, Carb and exhaust. Good luck!

You might want to consider calling a flatbed tow truck to take your car to and from the muffler shop. I did and it cost me about $50 each way. (Hagerty Insurance) There are a few pictures of my car on the flatbed in my project pixs.

Sounds good, man! :thumbup: Looking at your car makes me want a '69 convertible! Cant wait to see it completed. Excellent job!

I finally installed a set of Deluxe door panels that I've been working on for about 1 yr. :whistling: There was always something that didn't work right or I needed to buy. They're made by Dashes Direct. Sorry, I cant recommend them because they were a pain in my AZZ! I also installed a front chin spoiler and I must say it really makes the front view look aggressive. It took about 1 hr. Next will be to install the 351C that I've been working on. I'm also going to swap the close ratio for a wide ratio for better street manners.

Looking GOOD!!! :yes:

Looks Awesome. :tt1: Are you going to black out the hood?

I agree that it sounds better, but man they're fugly! From the attached chart you may pick up a little bit of torque over the long tubes...and HP will be down just a little for a street motor. Thanks for posting. I always wondered if those factory headers would fit in our cars without mods or not.

Lookin' GOOD! Would love to hear some sound clips or see a drive by. :scooter:

I'm using "Fatmat" and I'm happy with it. I've had it installed for 2 1/2 yrs and don't have any complaints. It was cheaper than Dynamat and I got it from a Ebay store.

Hey Booger! Got any pictures of this mod? I'm thinking real hard about putting a AOD in my '70. Thanks.

Maui, My bad! I confused your OP with the pictures of the '65 Mustang with the V8. Anyway, I agree with grendi!

Hi Maui, Is it a 200ci 6cyl car with a 302 (or 289) or is it a 289 car with a 289 or 302 in it? Since its got a good 289 or 302, I would keep it. A 351C will cost you twice as much to rebuild as a 289/302 or 351W...Ask me how I know this.

Looking real good. What paint brand and color did you go with?

I like CJ Pony suggestions. Since the cam is roller you'll need to buy either roller lifters with vertical link bars or the roller lifter conversion kit. Yes, you'll probably need new pushrods. Buy a pushrod length checking tool first. Don't forget that you'll also need a 4 bbl intake manifold and carb? I think the Edelbrock Performer would work fine along with a Edelbrock 650 cfm carb.

Looking good!

Welcome Randy! Randy restored my under dash harness back in 2010 and did a outstanding job. :thumbup:

You're over the hump and it looks Awesome!!!

Its close enough for me, but not exact to the original color on the back side of the mouldings. From what I can tell from the NOS pictures, they are not clearcoated. Clearing it would make then shinny and these don't appear to be. My original honeycomb panel was faded, so I painted it the same color as the rockers. The back side of the honeycomb appeared black. If your NOS panel is black I'd think that's the correct color. The newer NOS headlight bucket surround chrome part needed the lower portions painted dark argent. I'm not sure why Ford did that? Making a customer paint a part sounds weird to me.

The transmission and engine mounts are the same. The Cleveland isn't correct for my car (F-code), but Its a M-Code clone so it will need a Cleveland and Cleveland's Rock. My bother had one in a '71 Torino and that thing was awesome.

Thanks for the tips Chuck. I know all about spilling tranny fluid. I spilled several qts putting the first engine in. :frown:

And here are mine restored

more

Here are a few NOS Rocker parts. Its really hard to see the exact color because of the different lighting and camera flashes. I used the NPD (AP-GPA) rattle can without any clear coat or sealer and Its holding up great after 2 years.

Hi Guys, I'll be swapping out my 351w for a 351c in a few weeks. I know it's recommended to remove the hood first, but can it be done with the hood on? I'm also swapping the Close-ratio with a Wide-ratio 4-speed and want to pull and drop engine w/tranny attached. Any advice? Also, will jacking up the rear of the car help any with the swap? If so, how high should I raise it? Thanks. Jim