70Boss351

I removed my vents and replaced with 6inch mid-range speakers. Speakers were mounted to 1/8inch ABS adaptors sized to the hexagonal vent recesses. (The corresponding tweeters were mounted where the dash speaker used to be). In my case, I made custom upholstered kick panels, which included the speaker grill, to eliminate the stock vent and handle. I used foam speaker baffle/surround to waterproof the back of the speakers and used some dynamat to reduce any vibrations from the sheet metal. With two more speakers in the rear armrests and a sub in the trunk with 1000 watts the systems sounds great three houses away. :)

I installed ACC mass-backed carpet, that I purchased from RockAuto, in my convertible. I also had dynamat installed. I wouldn't use the mass-backed if I was to do it over. The extra density won't help quiet a convertible and the extra thickness makes it more difficult to fit and lay flat. One tool that helped the install was a heat-gun to warm-up and soften the back to get wrinkles out and better contour the carpet to the floor. Definitely cut the door sills LAST after everything such as the seats and seat belts are installed.

Good idea! After calibrating per instructions, my VA ac shuts off ONLY IF you make sure the fan switch is COMPLETELY pressed off.

Placing the vent hose behind the column support would be the ideal location but, in my case, I had already located the control box and all of its' wires for Dakota Digital gauges in the area behind the dash and above the left vent (I forgot to take the hose routing into account when I chose where to mount the box). I ended up putting the hose in front of the column brace and then used a 90 degree adaptor to get to the vent. There was just barely enough room behind the Dakota gauges (they are a little less bulky than the original gauge cluster).

There is sufficient room on the passenger side of the dash to easily run the flex hoses to the right vent. You are correct, since all of the hoses come out of the left side of the evaporator box then you do need to make a "u-turn" to get to the right vent. There is just enough room for this but when attaching the flex hoses to the box, start with the ones closest to the firewall and work forward. There isn't a lot of room to get your hands in there to make the connection to the box. Also, as you install the hoses one by one, my first thought was to just leave plenty of extra length and cut to exact fit later but I ran out of hose on the last one, luckily I had some leftover from a previous project. Unfortunately, even though I had my camera sitting next to me, I still didn't take any pictures of this process. Just work through the install in the order/steps from the instructions and take your time and you should have no big problems. Don't be surprised if you have to have the evaporator or the dash in and out a few times.

I recently installed Vintage Air in my 70 Mustang, which was an original AC car. Didn't have any issues around the glove box. The issue that I had was getting the flex hose to the driver side vent. I installed Dakota Digital gauges and located their "brain" just above the vent. I had to get a rigid ABS right-angle adaptor to be able to clear everything. Don't know if there would have been an issue if everything was stock. I also had to add zip ties to secure the flex hose to the ducts since the small bumps made to hold the ducts didn't hold securely enough when trying to cram everything in behind the dash.

By the way, Vintage Air is pretty good about answering any questions if you email or call.

I'm finishing up the install of a Vintage Air system on my '70 351W and, assuming that I'm understanding the VA instructions, the lower heater outlet goes to the water pump and the upper inlet with the valve goes to the manifold.

Look for a "90 degree electrical stud connector socket".

I have gutted the wiring from a car and then installed a new, modern wiring harness and I would not recommend a complete re-wire as a first project or for anyone not extremely familiar with electrical wiring. It's a big job, you have to remove the interior and dash while laying on your back twisted like a pretzel. Unless you are already experiencing electrical problems or are planning some major electrical additions, I'd put that project off to the future. That being said, almost every hot rod and old car that I've ever purchased has had wiring that was butchered by previous owners and the one that I re-wired was the most dependable after I was finished.

I've installed custom length Flaming River columns in two different street rods and the ordering process was simple and the delivered columns were exactly as requested. The install was straight forward and being custom you can make it the exact length to fit you (the seating position in most '60s cars seemed to have the steering wheel too close to the driver for my comfort). Only a little more expensive than a stock replacement column. I'd definitely use them again when I need a column.

TexasEd, those photos are very helpful, thanks. As Mach1Driver mentioned, I am particularly wondering if I have to have that sheetmetal spacer, 10A885, to be able to tighten a new switch assembly to the dash or can I just use the parts that you mentioned? Will the body of the ignition switch snug up to the back of the angled dash with just the front chrome bezel and spacer?

Hi All. New to this site and to Mustang ownership. I recently purchased my first Mustang, a '70 Convertible, and I didn't realize that 1970's normally have the key in the column, but in my case, the column was changed to a tilt with electric power steering and a generic universal style ignition switch was installed in the Lighter dash hole. To make matters worse, the seller didn't provide any keys for the door locks. I'd like to be able to install a Ford ignition switch that I could key to the door locks and I'd also like to be able to use the 69/70 angled switch bezel to match the other two dash switches. Does anyone know what exact parts I'd need and if a rear switch retainer (the metal piece with provision for a light bulb) is necessary to hold the switch in place? It doesn't appear that anyone is reproducing the retainer. Thanks in advance for any advice.