ForceFed70

For a 1-wire alternator, the wire goes straight to the battery. Yes, the voltage regulator on the fender is no longer needed and can be removed. Some 1-wire alternators are just regular alternators with he coil exciter wire removed. What this means is that the alternator needs to self energize and typically won't start working until you rev the engine past 2000rpm. So make sure you do some research into this.

I've just got the unbaffled tank with a bung added to the OEM fuel sender unit to allow for a return fuel line. I've noticed no problems from being unbaffled, but I don't drag race (no hard launches) and I don't let the tank get below 1/4. One of the baffled tanks sure would be nice. They wen't available when I did my EFI conversion.

Are you planning to keep the stock fuel tank? If so, what do you plan to do for a return fuel line? The easiest way to do this is to use a Warlbro In-line fuel pump. But without a baffled tank, you may run into problems when below 1/4 tank.

From what I remember, it's just kinda tucked up under there. You should be able to just pull it out. This is assuming you've removed the door sill plate and the interior kickpanel.

I also think that you need to look at water flow issues. Lower hose collapsing would be my starting point as well. The wire can go on the outside of the hose, so rust shouldn't be an issue. Even just some good quality hoses can help as the cheap ones tend to get too soft when hot.

I also think that you need to look at water flow issues. Lower hose collapsing would be my starting point as well. The wire can go on the outside of the hose, so rust shouldn't be an issue. Even just some good quality hoses can help as the cheap ones tend to get too soft when hot.

The spring holds mine up as well tho I did have to adjust it to the "stronger" notch.

The spring holds mine up as well tho I did have to adjust it to the "stronger" notch.

He does great work. I had the same problem - he said it would take 2 weeks, but took 2 months.

Was gonna say "I'm pretty sure it was a jeep, not a Ford"

This is common and is done as part of the alignment process. 1 of the front wheels is more "forward" than the other. It has to do with bump steering or something like that. I can't remember exactly why but someone who knows more about wheel alignment stuff can probably explain better. I noticed the same thing when lowering my car. 1 wheel rubbed the other didn't.

As has already been said, putting a T5 behind a 351C is no different than for a 351W or a 302W (and most 289's).

Use HID instead. Cheaper and more energy efficient.

Hmmmm, You should have problems with tire rub, etc before you have to worry about shock height. With it that low, your suspension geometry is going to be screwy as well. I really reccomend that you wait until the motor is in the car, etc before you try to modify the ride height. For a test run around the block, the shock doesn't even need to be there.

Hmmmm, You should have problems with tire rub, etc before you have to worry about shock height. With it that low, your suspension geometry is going to be screwy as well. I really reccomend that you wait until the motor is in the car, etc before you try to modify the ride height. For a test run around the block, the shock doesn't even need to be there.

Lots of guys out there running e85 through slightly modified carbs. Can't see how e15 would be a challange. Raising the alcohol content allows for more timing and higher compression. Lots of people out there using e85 as a race fuel.

Lots of guys out there running e85 through slightly modified carbs. Can't see how e15 would be a challange. Raising the alcohol content allows for more timing and higher compression. Lots of people out there using e85 as a race fuel.

As an owner of a Turbo EFI car, I welcome this change. Although I live in Canada so it doesn't matter anyway. From what I understand, the modifications would be pretty simple. Probably get away with just re-jetting the carb.

As an owner of a Turbo EFI car, I welcome this change. Although I live in Canada so it doesn't matter anyway. From what I understand, the modifications would be pretty simple. Probably get away with just re-jetting the carb.

Not interested. Sorry, but I just don't think wood would stand the test of time.

The FMX is heavy, but otherwise it's a good transmission. It is a shame that they have a bad reputation for their weight. There really should be more aftermarket parts. I had to have my 2400RPM torque converter custom made. Shift kit was easy to find at the time. Spent a lot of $$ on it, but it worked really well. Now the FMX sits in my storage shed waiting for someone who's willing to give me a couple hundred for it. :(

That's going to be a hard find. Why are you looking for an aftermarket pan? Looking for more fluid capacity or better cooling?

So why not swap to shorter lugs? It's fairly easy to do and cheap...

bolt on style spacer? If so, there might not be a problem. My wheels (bullit knockoffs) have a recessed area on the back where a longer stud would fit inside. Your wheels may be the same?

Like mentioned, it's the wheel well that will interfere not the leaf spring. A lot of this depends on the tire being used. I would think that with that wheel/tire you would need to use a 1/2" or 5/8" spacer which is no biggie. The spacer is cheap, hardest part is putting in the new studs. If you go with studs 1/2" longer than stock, you should be able to insert them without removing the axle from the diff. Any longer tho and you will need to remove the axle to get the studs in. The expensive spacers are the ones that are 1" thick or thicker as you really should get the bolt on style spacer if going that thick.