SlimeGold 69
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Posts posted by SlimeGold 69
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It seems i've heard of magazine completely dedicated to the Classics lately... :)Nice plug there:001_huh:...send me a free trial issue and I'll check it out.
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The car has no rust and is numbers matching. Is $20K really the going price on these cars? I was thinking between 25K and 30K.Yeah, I would say 20K is about right for a rust free small block Mach. Prices have fell on all Muscle Cars the last couple of years because of the economy. Big block cars would be in the 25K+ range, at least that's what I've noticed watching ebay auctions.
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Are you sure that this is balanced to a 28 oz. flywheel? I ask because when I bought mine, it was only available neutral balanced.Yeah, I'm 100% sure. My kit is just a "street performance" kit. I noticed that most of the hard-core Eagle kits (Racing and Pro-Street), that have all forged parts with the H beam rods are internal neutral balanced. My kit came with the spec card of where they balanced it and notes the 28oz external. Made sure of that before I ordered from Summit also.
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Parts..woo-hoo!!! After waiting over a month for my backordered Eagle kit, it came yesterday. All the parts look good and are spot on measurement wise. I will get the block to the machine shop week after next.
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I got my Dec. issue yesterday and you are correct on the change in January. Mark did a write-up on the change back to a classic format only. I don't like the mag at all now, not just because of the late-model stuff, but more because of all the high-dollar cars featured...a little too modified for my taste, but that's just my opinion.
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Nice little 69 coupe you have there and the 93 sounds like fun with a turbo. About the 89 H.O engine, how did it wear off a cam lobe being a roller? Did the lifter roller freeze up or something? Never seen or heard of that one before. Good luck with your project.
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2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport. Solid boring white. About 1,000,000 of them around..so I'm sure everyone knows what they look like.
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The older Magnum 500's had a smaller center hole (2" I think) that would not fit over the center of Granada rotors. Most if not all newer Magnum wheels have the bigger center hole ( around 2 1/8"). Just measure the center of your wheels. That's the only problem I ever heard of. They should clear everything else.
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Is the engine fairly new or does it have alot of miles on it? I personaly have never seen guides so wore that they knock (not to say it's not possible), like others say it usualy causes smoke, mostly when warm. If it's a new engine that wore out the guides fast then the push-rod/ rocker geometry could be a cause.
A cold/load knock sounds like more of a piston problem like a wrist pin, cracked or broke skirt or just plain piston slap from wear on a older engine. Or on the other hand is it a knock or is it pinging when under a load? A noise like pinging from detonation or timing problem could also be the cause. If your motor has alot of miles and is making strange noises, putting new heads on will only put more strain on a weak bottom end. Really consider a good engine health check-up, timing check and tune before throwing money into heads IMO. I know you have already had it checked out but the valve guide diagnosis sounds a little odd.
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On the edel carb....you might try a differant one. At my work we had a built 460 on the dyno that would not crack 500hp and had uncontrolable fuel mixtures. Too lean, too rich, and no consistancy. A swap to a known 850 Holley produced a smooth fuel curve and over 600 hp and torque. The problem seems to have occured when Edel bought Carter. The rumor has it that some of Carters workers felt they had gotten a raw deal and much of the tooling was damaged. Hence, many of the early edel carbs have misdrilled or incomplete passages. I have no way to know if your carb has any of this trouble, but it would seem very easy to try another and see what happens. LSG/CalI have never had any luck with Edelbrock carbs, even a brand new one. Just never would run right IMO. I have never heard of that rumor, and i just always assumed they where factory tuned more toward Chevy engines...lol.
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Overheating - hard to say for sure. Some things to check - Timing, how far is the fan from the radiator, is there a shroud, people install head gaskets backwards on SBF's and cause heating problems, radiator too small, reverse rotation water pump from newer model installed, etc. If it's really overheating I doubt you could remove the cap with a rag and watch the water flow, it would be boiling over.
But first check it with a real guage, not the factory one. I just went thru this with my wife's 65 and after having the radiator cleaned, new thermostat, new flex fan and spacers it still ran hot as ever. Problem was the wrong temp sending unit. I used one I had floating around the shop..it was for a newer model and caused the factory guage to read way wrong. Ordered one for a 65 stang and it just does move off of cold, and a aftermarket guage confirms it only gets to 180 deg.
A good place to start with base timing would be around 10 deg without vac advance hooked up. Why is the timing hard to adjust? Loose the points!!
Edelbrock carbs are not that hard to work on (assuming the carb and all else is well). Once you get the timing set, adjust idle speed ( at throttle linkage) and idle mixture (2 screws in the front of the carb base).
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Probably a internal problem but you could try adjusting the shifter linkage, or checking for wear in the shifter. Make sure it's going fully into 2nd gear to start with. Does it grind when upshifting from 1st to 2nd or from downshifting from 3rd to 2nd?
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Are you testing the electrical system with a fully charged battery? How do you have the neg side of the batt hooked up without the engine in the car? Is the alternator hooked in to the system yet? Maybe it's just not grounded well or not enough voltage there causing in to do strange things. It may be fine when it's all together and I would wait and see what it does. If the old one is quiet maybe it's no good.
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Glad it runs OK, just keep a ear open to noises like you said. If it starts clanking, try not to run it. If the rockers start flopping around they could hit the wrong place on the valve(retainer instead of the tip), pop the spring loose from the valve and it's all over.
If your lucky it may never hapen again, but you should plan in the future when money is there, to get some screw in studs and have the heads checked. Things like spring pressure and coil bind, cam specs, piston to valve clearance should really be checked because of the problem you had. That's one problem of having a engine that someone else built. You can't be sure of what's inside if they don't provide some solid info on stuff like cam and valve spring specs, if they installed bigger valves, etc.
It could have been some stiff valves that caused it or the PO had problems keeping the studs in the heads also and that's why they stopped driving it. It could have just slipped his mind when he sold it to you:shifty: and he left out that important fact. I would think that if a valve was stuck enough to pull press in studs out and bend push rods, you would have felt some major resistance when you where turning the engine over by hand before you fired it up. But it's just hard to say for sure.
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Tom,I know your not going to like this responce.
But your popping was from a sticky valve and resulted in pulling the rocker stud up.
You WILL be money ahead in pulling the heads off and repairing the valve train.
If you try and do a cheapy fix just to see what if? Then you are not going to like the results when the what if happens.
Breaking off a valve and driving it thru a piston top or doing extreame damage to the block will cost you more in the long run.
A head gasket set is cheap compared to a complete rebuild to the motor.
This is very true. That's what I mean by not having good luck with a quick fix sometimes. Like I said Print Dads idea could work but if other rockers are loose and more studs are up, I would think twice about a cheap fix. If it drops a valve your in big trouble, trust me, I know. It's up to you Tom but I would think hard about pulling the heads and fixing it right. If it is something simple I would hate to see you spend money, but if more than one stud is up, I'm afraid you will have this problem again...probably when your about 100 miles from home.
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Print Dads idea may very well work. You could give it a try if all the valves are free. If it saves you some money, then it would be worth a try. They may have just pulled out when you first fired it up after a long nap and the valves where stiff or the P.O. missed a few shifts long ago. When stuff like this hapens to me I never have good luck with a easy fix, so I just go all out to make sure it won't hapen again, but that don't mean you wont. Give it a try and see what hapens before you go tearing it down.
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That's why high performance engines have screw in studs. Stock old school Fords and others have press in studs. Big cams, massive valve springs, coil bind, high RPM's or stuck valves will pull them out quick. OR it jumped time and the valves where hitting the top of the pistons and something had to give..the press in studs. May have been why they stopped driving it. Whatever the reason, they will not stay in now IMO. They need pulled out and tapped for screw in studs. I'm sorry that's the problem but 9 times out of 10 the popping you described is a tell-tell sign that a exhaust valve is not opening. I guess I should have kept my mouth shut huh?
Your options are to pull the heads to have the screw in studs installed at a machine shop. Or at one time Crane?? I think had screw in studs you could install without removing the heads. Just pull the studs (not easy) tap the hole and screw in the studs. Most studs require machine work to the heads before installing. IMO-I would pull the heads and have them repaired ( screw in studs and guide plates) and checked (valve job included) at a GOOD machine shop. Also check the cam and lifters while it's apart. Or just buy some aftermarket heads.
You will need to investigate and find what caused it. The screw in studs will solve the problem if evrything else is well.
Also a old trick was to drill thru the boss in the head and the rocker stud and install a pin. But that would be one heck of a job with the heads on and probably not a good idea.
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Print Dad I have an edelbrock performer 2v intake that came off my cleveland that I'll make you a superdeal on. I'll pm you with details, I just dug it out of the car after reading your post :)I'm running the air gap now, well its on the engine at least.....
There you go Jim. bswor can hook you up with a good intake unless your happy with it as is.
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No. I'm going with 347 pistons and 5.4 rods. The wrist pin will be in the oil ring if that's what your asking. I was thinking of a 393W first. I even bought a windsor block but in the end decided on the 347 because my car already has a 302 and things like headers, pullies,PS and alt brackets and intake will switch over to the 347 without issue. Plus I found a new 302 roller block and that sealed the deal. My 85 351 windsor block would need a more expensive small base roller cam conversion plus it's wore out and I'm not sure it would even clean up with a 30 over bore. So in the end ,cost solved the question of a 302/347 stroker or 351w.393/408 stroker for me. Now if I was building a car from the ground up then it would be hard to pass up a big windsor stroker. Kits for them are about the same price as 347's. I hope to see around 400 HP when all is said and done.
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LOL..Nope. If it works I may give it a try:shifty:. I doubt it tho...
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Copied from another forum..........So here is a stash of 100+ Mustangs including 4 Shelbys
http://jalopnik.com/5377160/huge-cac...urs-for-700000
2008 link
http://www.autoblog.com/2008/01/28/e...ith-parts-fre/
They are asking $700K; last year it was $1 Million
Includes
SHELBY GT 350 CONV. 1968 8T03J165 WHITE
SHELBY GT 500 K 1968 8T02R210 BLUE
SHELBY GT 500 1969 9F02R480 ORANGE
This whole lot of cars has alredy been posted on ebay at least twice in the last year or so. It never sold as a whole, but it had the location and contact information of the owner when it was listed. I'm sure this guy has been bugged to death over the Shelby's and Boss 302's, but by most of the pics in the ebay listing, they all where about rusted in half, or so it looked.
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I'm getting started on the 347 for my Stang. I found a NOS 5.0 roller block and ordered a Eagle 347 kit from Summit. It's on backorder but I have time to start prep work. Follow along if your interested. I will post pics, info and problems that I run across (none I hope). I know 347 builds have been beat to death in magazines and other places but I'm on a budget and building this at home in my basement. So if your thinking about building one and if your like me and don't have unlimited funds and connections, this may help. Just give me time...It's not going to hapen fast.
I puchased a 347 block-notch tool from Hawks Racing on ebay for $34.00. Works slick (I hope) and that's where I started. Eliminates the need for a mock-up of the crank,pistons and rods to see what needs clearanced.
I had to remove a small part of the block first. It's just a jig tab that Ford uses for first time machining of the raw block . It's beside the oil pump mounting pad. Just cut it off with a saws-all or dremel tool.
Next I put the notch tool into place per the instructions provided and marked the bottom of the cylinders.
After all where marked, I used a dremel tool with a small stone and started grinding. I smoothed around each notch with a sand paper roll. I'm also going back with the dremel for a deburring of the whole block.
When the stroker kit comes in (next week), the block is going to the machine shop first for cleaning, slight honing, cam bearings, plugs and a deck square check. I may send the pistons, crank and rods also to check measurements. The kit is pre-balanced to 28oz.
The final product will be 342 (standard bore), Comp roller cam, AFR 185 heads.
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You have not one thing to be embarrassed about Jim. I'm glad she is running better and hope you and your wife can enjoy it now. Money is a big problem for most (me included). It just takes time, planning and work with what you have. I'm building a new motor for mine now and it will take at least a year to gather all the parts and find money for it all, plus putting off the paint job and interior work that I had wanted to do. You did the right thing, take care of family first.
So is the whistle gone? The 4V intake gaskets should seal better than 2V gaskets. If I'm reading your post right, you installed 4V intake gaskets in place of the 2V gaskets and found part of the valve cover gasket between the head and intake correct?
Non A/C Pullys
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
What size engine are you dealing with? On my 302 I took off all the original A/C stuff and the P/S bracket was not a problem, just took a thicker spacer between the pump and head. The crank pulley is a 3 groove on A/C cars, 2 groove without A/C and the water pump pulley is the same for A/C and non A/C. I think you can buy the 2 groove, 3 bolt crank pulley new from just about any classic Mustang parts house or search ebay.