SlimeGold 69

Yeah, that's a good idea or if your after a more stock look without a external box, you can go with a Pertronix point eliminator kit in a original points FE dizzy.

Sounds like you got a good deal there. I think the intake was a old Ford performance part you could get out of a catalog back in the day. Possibly even used on 69-70 GT 350's? Not really 100% sure tho. I have seen one on ebay before, but a long time ago.

Scince you have a flat hood in place on the car, just measure from the hood to a strait edge laid on top of the shaker scoop and subtract how much you want the scoop sticking thru. From the pic I don't think a 2" hood will work, so if a 2" and 4" is all that's available, you may end up working with a 4" cowl and adjusting the shaker height some way. But measure to make sure. Do you have a thick carb spacer on it and what kind of intake are you using?

I don't think anyone sells new 69 GT gas caps yet. You can get 65-68 caps but the 69 only GT caps are few and far between. I have seen used 69 GT caps bring over $150.00 for a pitted up original. So I guess the price depends on how bad you want it and what your willing to pay. If you plan on paying a decent price for one just make sure you are getting a real 69 GT cap. They are unique and have gear looking edge around the inside. A 67-68 GT top will fit a 69 base so watch out for that.

DOZB is a 70 part number.

The Marti report won't tell if your seats are original (date coded correct, where the seat latch should be etc) it will just tell you what interior option you car had when new, IE Mach 1 black interior. Post some pics of your seats. If they are obviously wrong (like 70 seats) we might be able to tell you from the pics. Do a Google search on seat tag info for classic Stangs, it might turn up something or if/when you order your Marti report, ask him about the tag info via phone or e-mail. If your buying a report off of him, he should be willing to help you figure out your seat question. I think Marti now has a book out with all the tag info for classic Mustangs but I'm not sure if it will have seat tag info in it. I do know the seat tags have date codes and they will tell you if they are correct for your cars build date but I have no clue on how to decode them.

How much paint we talking? I just bought a used intake that had about 5 coats of grabber green over 2 coats of blue. I used spray on stripper, scrapers, wire wheels and at last sand blasted it to make it look new. You obviously can't sand blast a whole engine, and if your not looking for a full rebuild, removable things like valve covers, oil pan, intake, etc, blasting works pretty good if the paint is not real thick. You would want new gaskets on all this stuff anyway if your spending alot of time cleaning and detailing your engine. Oil leaks would make it all wasted time. Dremels or something with a wire wheel are handy for cleaning up areas like the block and heads. It will be alot of work tho. I would clean the block and heads before taking valve covers or oil pan off to keep crud out of the inside of your engine. If your rebuilding the engine, just take all the parts to the machine shop and have them hot-tank it all. Most if not all of the paint will be gone then.

For a fun street car go for a big cube 351W based stroker like a 408. Build it solid and you could keep it below 6 grand. It should last for a long time. When you start getting into higher RPM's to make power that really puts a huge stress on things, more so than say a stroker that makes 500ft lbs at 4500 RPM's.

9000 rpm's is alot! Don't try it with a stock bottom end. You will need a forged steel crank, killer rods, forged pistons and one of the new boss 302 blocks from Ford Racing, a bullet proof valve train and probably a dry sump oiling system for a good start. To make power at 9000 rpms you will need a big, no wait, a HUGE cam with all kinds of lope that will probably idle at about 1700 rpm's or more. Boss 302 heads would probably work and about a 5.13 gear to keep it in any kind of a power band. For the street I would rather have a torque monster with a broad powerband up to about 6 grand over a high reving motor but that's just my opinion. Either way have fun and good luck.

It sounds good. Yeah I know aluminum heads allow more compression but I would be chicken to try 11.5:1 around here with the watered down gas we have. E-85 is a good idea. We have alot of E-10 here and I have been wondering if it would help with detonation or make it worse.

Assuming we are talking differential yokes and not slip yokes...Does it have the original yoke and driveshaft? If so it should be fairly easy to find a u-joint. Ford used quite a few different yokes on 9 inch rears over the years and yours could have been swaped out causing your problems. You may just have to measure and find a joint that will "fit" or swap the yoke to the correct, original one and make sure the driveshaft is correct for your car. Check casting numbers or post a pic to help figure out what you have. Check this out for some good info http://www.428cobrajet.org/id-rear-ujoint-flange.html

Very nice ride. 11.5:1 compression!! Will you be OK with pump gas or are you planing on some high octane stuff for the street? Does the "big solid roller" bleed it off some? Sounds like a awesome combo you have there and it should run strong as hell.

Yeah, with no H-pipe and 4" pipes coming out of the mufflers and no tail pipes it's probably going to make some backfiring or poping noise when you let off it. Is that your whole problem? Probably not but I have found that without a good exhaust system, tuning a car to run "smooth" can be a bit of a problem. A co-pilot is a good idea when making a vid..don't try to drive a 4 speed and film at the same time..lol.

How is the exhaust sytem set up? From what I remember about your car, it looked like a old hot-rodded car from some years back. If your taking it up to 3 or 4k then letting off of it, the popping and backfiring you hear could be just the normal sounds of decelerating magnified by a old school dual exhaust system. A set of glasspack mufflers and no balance pipes between the two will make noise when you let off it. They where know to pop and crack or "backfire" pretty loud. Exhaust system aside, backfire could be caused by a rich condition, vacuum leak or your "crappy points". Have someone make a vid with sound if you can. Bogging down after you let off it? Does it have a steep gear in rear that's holding it back or is it a mis-fire? Does it accelerate smoothly up to 4K and just give the symtoms when you let off the gas? If it's not wanting to rev past 3 to 4K and back-firing it could be related to the valve train problem you had. The valves could not be adjusted correctly, valve float (weak springs) lifters, cam lobe etc. Or "crappy points" again. Just hard to say not being there but maybe you can get some idea of things to consider.

That's how you do it! Good job so far. Bodywork is the make-it or break-it phase for all projects. Most give up after a few months, but looks like you made a awesome rotiss there that I would kill to have. Saves alot of work and makes for a overall better job I'm sure. Keep posting pics as you make progress.

If the gasket is the only thing causing you a problem (no bad port mis-match or pitted or damaged head flanges),try them without gaskets. Ford never used gaskets with exhaust manifolds anyway. If your head has a clean, strait flange area, the new manifold should seal up without any gaskets. Tube headers need gaskets 100% of the time however.

Yeah, that's a good idea. If your just after the fuel injection then you could also even check into a Holley Pro-Jection system or something similar for your Cleveland.

[quote name=Handegard;56290 I don't see marriage changing my life one bit from the way it is now' date=' [/quote] Heh..famous last words...just kidding. Congrats and I'm sure you'll get your car done, just may take some time.

Keep your Cleveland, get the T5 from his Cobra, give him your AOD and a swift kick in the ass for putting a generic SBC in a Cobra.

I went ahead and got the Edelbrock heads and air gap intake. I gave $700 for both heads and intake ( they are around 1 year old with 5k street miles on them). I have been busy the last 2 weeks working on the heads. I tore them down and checked all the guides, springs, valves and seats. They checked out excellent. I did some porting work to clean up the runners, bowls and chambers, installed new valve stem seals, lapped the valves and cleaned the hell out of them. They are just sitting on the shortblock for now untill I get the cam and valvetrain ordered next. One downfall of the whole deal was the intake was painted with about 5 coats of Grabber Green. I used stripper and scraped for 2 days getting the paint off. Under the runners was a dog to get clean. Thank God he didn't paint the heads to match. I'm going to sandblast it to get in looking new again.

Tom, on older small block Fords the front seal is installed from the back side of the timing cover..the cover will need to come off. It can be tricky because the oil pan bolts to the front cover also and there is a rubber seal between the cover and pan that is a slight pain to get back in. But on the ther hand, removing the cover will give you a chance to replace all the gaskets related to the timing cover and check the timing chain. Also check the balancer for a deep groove on the snout where the seal rides. Good luck.

I like the 3.50 gears with my T5 trans. I had 4.11's in it first but with the T5's 3.35 first gear, it was too much. It turned my 5 speed into a 4 speed with a granny low. What trans are you using? Ever think about OD? Steep gears are fun and it was a pretty big change from the 4.11 to 3.50 ratio. Depending on your cam and the powerband of your engine you may be disapointed in the low-end torque loss.

I have run into this before also. There are a few different drive ends on Ford starters ( older truck small block manual trans is one). It will bolt up to a C4 in a car as an example, but the gear comes out farther and scrubs the flywheel.

It probably could be "made" to work but IMO I would find the correct 69 pedals. And yes, power brakes will make a difference in the pedal set-up.