SlimeGold 69

Oh yeah. Any color would be fine to me but CC is my fav. My 70 Mach CJ was CC with black interior and it's a good looking Muscle Car kind of color. So you getting this "barn find"?

Man that would be alot of typing! The color breakdown for both years is huge. I could scan it, but copy laws might be a problem.

^ beat me again..lol..Same book..I'm In the 1970 Paint/Trim production section and I'm using the trim codes to figure total numbers. Any trim codes that start with 3 are Mach 1 interior. So if it has a trim code that starts with 3 in a color chart, it's a Mach 1. Like the dark maroon, 16 of that color had a 3A (Mach 1 Black interior) and 4 had 3W (White Mach interior) and I came up with 20 Mach's total.

Well looking thru the book again and code 4, Green Metallic, 14 Mach's.

^ you beat me..posted at the same time...Looking quickly in my Kevin Marti Mustang...by the numbers book, 3569 70 Mach 1's where CC, code 1, not the rarest by a long shot. The least made where code B, Dark Maroon, with 20, not counting special order colors.

Congrats. We are planning on having a second kid soon. One thing for sure, and you will hear it over and over,... time flies. My little girl is 6 and it just seems like yesterday she was born. Spend as much time as you can with them. I stick a booster seat in the back of my car and take her for rides in the summer. They are simple to use, but you won't need one of those for a while. I didn't have a running Stang at the time she was born so I never tried a real car seat in a classic Stang..Might have to with the new kid..hoping for a boy. I wouldn't take anything for my little girl but another car guy around here would be nice. So you going to change your name back to "bottlefed"? And yea, boobies are amazing.

I've never heard of a Vox guitar. I have a older Gibson Explorer plugged into a Fender Roc-Pro 1000 amp that I strum on sometime..sometime meaning twice a year. Before you know it, you'll have 40 Mustangs around too. There kind of addictive. Post a pic of your car when you get it (and of your Vox:thumbup1:).

Good thing you are doing there for your brother-in-law.. Do you have much mechanical knowledge on older cars in general? For a good start... brakes come to mind first if it's running well. Suspension and steering should be checked to make sure it's safe to drive if your not planning on a complete resto. Then bodywork and paint and last the interior.

You got a great deal there!... I'd give you your $300 back if you want it out of your way..:whistling: but shipping to VA would be about $1000 so I gues I had better pass.

You got a great deal there!... I'd give you your $300 back if you want it out of your way..:whistling: but shipping to VA would be about $1000 so I gues I had better pass.

http://www.dodgestang.com/Tire%20Fit...de%2069-70.pdf :001_huh:

http://www.dodgestang.com/Tire%20Fit...de%2069-70.pdf :001_huh:

Check this chart out. http://www.dodgestang.com/Tire%20Fit...de%2069-70.pdf The tires should work as long as you get the correct backspace on the wheels and your car is not sitting on the ground.

Tom- Must be something with Honda Pilots that rodents like because my Boss here at work has had mice in the heater blower 2 different times in the last 3 years. They took it to the Honda dealer the first time to find out what was causing the smell when the heater was turned on. They found a dead mouse in the heater box. Then it hapened again and I tore into it the second time. The mouse was in the "squirl cage"..lol..part of the heater blower. When they cut the heater on the mouse was squashed between the fins by the outward force and killed. He started stinking a few days after and that's when I found him.

For a 302 I would say overkill but for a 408, I don't think they will be overkill at all and sounds like a good deal. If I built a 408 that would be the heads I would use. Just check PTV clearance with those 2.05 valves.

I don't think you could check it with a dial guage other than checking to see how far each piston is down in the hole at TDC on one bank. If the distance gets larger or smaller for each piston you check at TDC, then you would know if it's running up or down hill. Even then that would not cause a head gasket leak, just a small difference in compression ratios per cylinder. You could try sealer on the studs to see or take a real close look and see if water is leaking around them. You built a Clevor correct? Are you sure you used the correct head gaskets and was your Cleveland heads plugged to be used on a Windsor block or do AFD heads even need pluged,... I don't know? Maybe your problem has something to do with a mixmatch of parts/gasket or leaking plug. Just a thought..

Well I don't know 100% sure but I think they are the same if not very close. I have put Clevelands in place of 302's and 351W's before and used all the original Windsor block clutch bars on Clevelands. The different part number may be from just a slight production change like one hole a bit bigger or a change in angle to reduce pedal effort but that's just a guess. Maybe some one will have one of each for a real comparison. It may also have to do with the length of the main bar and I never noticed.

My console is dark ivy and it is the same color inside and out. I think yours was a red console that someone has sprayed black.

+1 ^ also when you get it all together never let the master go dry while bleeding your brakes! I know that is a obvious no-no but believe me, it can happen pretty quick and suck in all kinds of air. Also Tom before in a couple of posts up when you say you unplugged the connector and the light went out, it will. The light is lit up only by the valve switch. With a dual braking system if pressure is lost on one leg, the light lets you know, like if you blow a rear wheel cylinder for example, you may not realize it and keep driving around with only front brakes. If air is in your master, it could have the same effect.

Sounds like you have it covered then. I have never had problems with the valve other than dirt but that's not to say the valve ball is not your problem. You may still have some air trapped somewhere also. Did you bench bleed the master?

Hmmm..I have never done that either. When you say 99.5% sure this is the problem does the other .5% include the possibilty that a wheel cylinder is leaking or the master cylinder is bad? Maybe that idiot light is not so dumb and it knows you don't have enough pressure. I would try bleeding some more but keep in mind the .5% factor if you have not checked out the entire system. Does the brake pedal feel soft? Are your brake shoes adjusted out?

We talking a Windsor block? Warped decks can cause leaks so I always like to at least have them make a small cut on the deck just to check. The decks on my brand new 302 block needed cut, they ran up-hill .010. Also the lower head bolts can seep if you don't put some kind of sealer on the threads. They go strait thru into the water jacket.

Check your lines as Tom stated and also check sround the shifter arm on the driver side of the trans. Or the front converter seal could be leaking.

Well I was close http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pema_Ch%C3%B6dr%C3%B6n this Pema lady is a Buddist or something. Yeah, don't click on the link in your PM's unless your interested in that kind of thing.:001_huh:

I didn't get one but it sounds like some kind of a cult..come join our eternity brotherhood or something?