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SlimeGold 69

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Posts posted by SlimeGold 69

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Interior/Seats

     

    Corresponds with letter immediately following Body code (e.g. 65A would be hard top with standard seats.

    65 66 67 68 69 70

    -------------------------------------------------------------------

    Standard A A A A A A

    Luxury B B B B B B

    Special na na na na E+ E+

    Bench Seats C C C C/D* C/D* C/D*

     

    *Deluxe +Grande

    Return to Topics

     

    Thats right for the body code and I didn't know that's what Tom was talking about... or it just flew over my head.. I thought he was looking for info on the trim code. From the Marti book, the body code 65E would be for a 69 Grande and the trim code should have a 1 in front of the color code.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    For a 69 Grande the inerior code should start with 1, like 1A would be Grande Black interior. Post the door tag info he gave you and maybe we can make something more of it. He may have just read it wrong. E is not even a 69 interior code at all that I can find, but is a valid code for 70.

     

    Maybe it's a 70 built in late 69 and he is just going by the build date calling the car a 69. It hapens sometimes with people who don't mess with older cars alot. Have you seen pics?

  4. Posted · Edited by SlimeGold 69 · Report reply

    This site has been around for a few years and I'm sure many of you know about it. For the last couple of years or so it had gone stagnet with no new finds or stories. It is now updated weekly. I think it has a new owner and he is doing a great job. Just thought I would pass the word. I had no idea myself untill I went there today. Check it out and enjoy the rotting Muscle cars:scared:.

    http://carsinbarns.com/new.html

  8. Posted · Edited by SlimeGold 69 · Report reply

    Unless I'm reading your post wrong, I think you have the radiator bottom hose location wrong. 70 and later radiators are DS bottom. 69 back are PS bottom. The timing cover will work with both DS and PS pumps. With the older 3 bolt balancer and PS lower hose, the timing pointer is on the DS. It's on the PS 70 up. If you don't get all the parts in order, the timing marks and pointer will be covered up by the water pump. Confused yet? Example: My wife's 65 Stang has a 75 model 302, 4 bolt balancer, and 65 PS water pump. It's imposible to use a timing light because the pointer and timing marks are covered by the water pump inlet, finding pullies to fit was a pain and I had to fudge them a little to make everything line up. I could fabricate a pointer and use timing tape on the balancer I guess but I just set it by ear. Who knows where it's at tho.

     

    You would need to use all 70 model parts IMO ( water pump, pullies, 4 bolt balancer, timing pointer) to match the radiator. The DS radiator starts a chain reaction need for the 70 up parts.

  9. Posted · Edited by SlimeGold 69 · Report reply

    With 302 parts you make 302 power. Those heads arent big enough for a slightly warmed over 302 let alone a 351.

     

     

    I thought that you need more air + fuel to make more power? Torque and rpms are what you need to make hp...so how does restricting air flow with a small runner make more torque? ;) Something to think about.

     

    LOL...OK. Your right and I'm wrong. I know nothing about heads, airflow or velocity or how to build torque in a MILD engine. Sorry that I gave bad info. I'll just keep quiet and let you build him a engine over the net 6T9Mach1.

     

    I was just giving a example of aftermarket heads that could be found on a budget for a MILD build. Not that these where the end all heads to have. Maybe I missed the part of where he was looking for 500 hp.

     

    Good luck Stephen and don't believe everthing you hear on the net and read in magazines and don't be so quick to jump on the biggest and baddest bandwagon.. unless that's what your looking for. Talk to a good shop/engine builder to set you up with EXACTLY what you need for what YOU expect out of your engine.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    SlimeGold thank you for this set of heads. Just wondering though in you opinion if they are any good just so you know im looking to build a mild street racer but still a daily driver because thats what its going to be mainly used for.

     

     

    I think 6T9Mach1 gave the best advice. If you can, hold off untill you have the money to build it up right. The Holley heads would work fine for a mild build IMO. They are a little on the smallish size (160 cc intake runner) but will make killer low end torque on a 351 and torque is fun. It won't be a high RPM screamer/drag car for sure. They could be ported but that means more money invested that could go toward some Trick-Flows. They also have 2.02 valves so you would have to watch piston to valve clearance on the Holley heads. I'm not going to tell you to buy these heads tho. You need to have a good overall plan for your build from oil pan to carb. I used these as an example that if you check around, you can find some good deals on quality heads.

  12. Posted · Edited by SlimeGold 69
    decided not to go there     · Report reply

    They may clean up the castings and get them where they should be out of the box, but you are still left with junk components. Junk valves, junk guides, junk studs, junk etc. By the time you get a set of Pro Comps set up with decent hardware you could have gotten a good set of heads with way better port shape and valve angles.

     

    Stephen, my advice to you is to wait till you save up enough money to do a proper build. Throwing parts at it here and there will just get you a messed up setup and cost you more to make it right in the future. Been there and done that.

     

    Without knowing anything more about what direction you want to take the motor and what goals you may have it is hard to suggest a set of heads. Please, please, please stay away from the Pro Comps. There is a reason they are cheap. If you must put a set of heads on it now get a set of Trick Flow 170cc Twisted Wedges. They cost $1200 new, assembled. They are a little small for a 351w but will work on most mild builds 450hp and less. For another $300 you could get a set of 190cc Twisted Wedge "Fast as Cast" heads. They have alot of potential for growth...just saw a naturally aspirated 347w built by Jay Allen of Camshaft Innovations make 694hp with a set of almost stock 190cc FAC's; just a competition bowl blend and valve job.

     

    Dont cheap out on the heads and intake. This is where you make your hp.

     

     

    I agree 100% about the Pro-Crap/ Pro-Comp heads. I know some people have made them work, and yes they are cheap, but cheap is not a good thing sometimes in the automotive world.

  14. Posted · Edited by SlimeGold 69 · Report reply

    Looks like the brake job was just new shoes. Can you tell if the drums have been turned (machined on the inside)? The wheel cylinders need to be checked even more so on a car that sits. They freeze or rust up inside, leak and stop working. I would replace them all..they are cheap to replace and important for decent brakes on drum equiped cars. Also check the wheel bearings real good.

     

    Looks like the suspension has had some work done. Looks like new ball joints, good shocks etc., but check it all good.

  15. Posted · Edited by SlimeGold 69 · Report reply

    Looks pretty good. That little tube on the headers is a heat riser for a non-electric choke. I have seen a few headers with those when new, but not many.. Looks like your eddy carb has a electric choke so that tube is just along for the ride now...and you might want to tighten that last header flange bolt before it blows the gasket out if it's hasn't yet.

     

    And I agree that throttle linkage looks scary. Get that fixed right. You don't want it sticking the throttle wide open on you.

     

    The puddle of coolant is common when the t-stat housing leaks or the the hose clamps need tightened. Worse case the intake gasket could be leaking. Looking at the way that little bypass hose is crammed way up on the t-stat housing, I would check there first for leaks.

  18. Posted · Edited by SlimeGold 69 · Report reply

    Please do not ban me, but I always thought the "stock" 69 body front end looked a lot better than the 69/(70) Shelby body front end.

     

    Not that I wouldn't love to have one, but I can agree with you. Too many scoops going on there is what I allways thought (5 just on the hood!) and reminds me more of a 71-72 front.

     

    To be honest I always thought the front of a 68 Shelby was ugly as hell. So I'll get banned with you if it hapens..lol.

     

    The 67 was the best looking IMO.

     

    .

  19. Posted · Report reply

    The E-street are just cheaper versions of the performer RPM heads. Same casting, just less prep work from Edelbrock, no helicoiles, and cheaper springs. They would be fine for a mild engine. They have big enough runners for good torque and HP.

     

    Depending on what you want in the end from your engine, depends on if you need bigger runners. For street cruiser, I would stay toward the 170-190cc range.

     

    Epay is flooded with Pro-Comp SBF heads for $639 a pair complete. They are about as cheap as you can get but just like anything else in life, you get what you pay for. I would rather have the E-Streets myself.

     

    You can also get the Ford Racing GT40X aluminum heads for less than a grand. Good quality head that flows decent.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I had to make the slotted holes slightly longer (where the trans mount bolts to the x-member). Then weld little tabs on both ends of the x-member to drop the whole thing down about 3/4 of a inch. The T5 sets lower than C4 or toploader, It hits the floor and won't go up as high as the vintage transmissions..

  24. Posted · Edited by SlimeGold 69 · Report reply

    I would say a factory style Trac-Loc with 31 spline axles but with a 408 and some drag use it may not hold up. You may be ok without slicks. Check with Currie. http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/9inford.aspx They have some strong units..but not cheap. A detroit locker would work but it will make noise, just depends on what you want and can deal with. Or check Summit Racing or just about anywhere and compare. The 9 inch has plenty of part options available.

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