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Posts posted by potato

  1. My car's gas tank was replaced by a previous owner.  It appears they did a couple things wrong.  The filler neck is not fed through the taillight panel correctly so the gas cap doesn't fully tighten.  Inside the trunk smells a bit like gas, like the filler neck is not sealing up to the tank.  Under the car, it has developed a slow dripping gas leak around the rubber line coming from the sending unit.

    So anyways, I'd like to redo both the filler neck and the sending unit.  Is there a diagram of the way those 2 parts are assembled?  And what all seals and rubber parts would I need to do it all at once?

  2. 2 hours ago, fvike said:

    Note that the two clips on the top of the door must be removed when installing the deluxe panel. My car had been converted sometime in the '90s and I could not understand why the door panel would always bust up the chrome on my door locks. The panel just didn't sit right with those clips in place.


    Good info.  Is your picture a 1970 door?  I see it has the longer style of handle bracket installed.  The photo above yours has the shorter style.

  3. 57 minutes ago, Mach1 Driver said:

    This may help


    Thanks.  That helps for some of the parts.  

    I see the part 240A10.  Looks like there is a reproduction part with that exact part number, and the longer one they say is 240A10-B.  They appear to have the mounting holes in different relation to each other, so it should hopefully be easy to hold the panel up to the door and verify which one will fit.

    There are some details not shown still like the lock knob grommets and the black trim pieces that go behind the handle.  https://www.cjponyparts.com/deluxe-door-handle-trim-plate-pair-1969-1970/p/DPDT-V/

  4. My front door panels arrived today.  I could use some input on what all I'll need to get these installed in the car that was originally basic interior.

    It looks like the plastic door handle cups are cracked on both.  Then I think there's a bracket and some screws that I'll need to attach the door cup to the door itself?  And some sort of little black filler panel that goes behind the door handle.  Does anybody have a link to purchase some of these parts?  I see 2 completely different versions of the armrest mounting brackets available online.

    My passenger side looks like it also could use the little chrome grommet for the lock knob.

    And maybe I'll try my hand at one of those vinyl repair kits on the couple of splits in it.




  5. 59 minutes ago, Busch said:

    There is a company in Pennsylvania that makes a reproduction in dash tach that is pretty similar to the originals. It does not require any modifications to the original non tach wiring harness. The alternator warning light does function a little bit differently than an original though. It comes on for overvoltage and undervoltage. My paperwork said about 11.8v for undervoltage and about 14.2v for overvoltage. On my car it is actually about 11.5v for undervoltage and about 14.5v for overvoltage.

    I plug the tach directly into the tach output my MSD 6AL box. On my dash cluster I chose to move the fuel gauge to the right side and I kept the alternator gauge on the left side, since I have temp and oil pressure gauges on the console. It could be setup just like an original tach car if a person wanted it that way though.


    Do you happen to know the name or website for this company?

  6. My car has no tach.  I would like have one.  Under the hood, its got a HEI distributor with a 1-wire alternator.  I say all that in case that affects my options.

    If possible, I'd like to stick with the factory style gauges.  But if I'm understanding correctly, the printed circuit is different as well as some of the pin locations in the big connector that plugs into the back of the gauge cluster.  

    Maybe the easiest option is the ugliest one.  Get an aftermarket standalone tach that clamps to the steering column in front of the other gauges.

    I have seen the Dakota Digital and VintageUSA gauge kits.  Neither one of them look like they are plug and play.  The dakota digital one looks like a 1-size-fits-every-car brain box they use and then you have to pluck apart your wiring harness to jumper to the dakota digital box, and when you're done, you still have things that don't interface together.  Like requiring a separate pot to dim the dash.

    The VintageUSA kits also look like they are not plug-and-play.  It does look like maybe they end up using the existing dash lighting, so the existing dimmer would work on them.  However, the turn signals and bright light indicator look like an after thought.

    I see some dashes with holes for 6 gauges.  I'm not clear on whether or not these even have turn signals and bright light indicators.  https://www.cjponyparts.com/classic-instruments-6-gauge-set-velocity-series-with-scott-drake-wood-grain-6-hole-instrument-bezel-1969-1970/p/CIVB1KW-V/

    Is there something obvious I overlooked?  Is there an easy way to convert the non-tach car to the factory tach style setup? And if so, will that work with an HEI distributor?  I have a "tach out" terminal available.  Otherwise, are there any aftermarket gauges that are more plug and play?

  7. The best advice i can muster up is get a car you're not afraid to work on and learn on.  If your mustang is too nice, you can be intimidated by it.  Get yourself something more ugly or more basic so you aren't afraid to wrench on it.


    From there, just start learning how each of the systems work.  Brakes, fuel delivery, power steering, cooling, spark/ignition, electrical/charging, etc.  Every part of the car has a purpose.  And once you understand the purpose, you can understand what happens when that part is broken or acting up.

  8. 9 hours ago, Viperpete said:

    The passenger side is a little off. Not sure how to correct this. 


    My first guess was put the doors in the door holes and see if you can tell how your body panels need to close up together to fit better.  That may be hard with your brace right there in the door opening.

    My next guess is make something that perfectly fits the door opening of your old car shell.  Thats assuming your car door still fits in the opening of the old car.

    Based off some of your other pictures, you're a bit of a welder.  I say use some scrap of angle iron or steel bars and weld up and catch some reference points on all sides of the door opening.  Then take that over to your new car where you're fitting your panels together.  Use it to help decide what needs to move where.  If you're feeling crazy, start tacking the body panels directly to the jig.  :P


    I suppose you could take that idea further.  Build a little skeleton inside your old car (that can be disassembled and reassembled in the new car).  Make some features that come off the skeleton and come to certain reference points in the body.    This lets you copy the old car to the new car by making sure a bunch of points are all held properly in relation to each other.

  9. It seems like there's a cheaper way to ship them there.  Even if a member here ordered you the bolts and mailed them.  Cjpony is probably using FedEx or something and their quote is insane.


    The threaded portion of the shoulder belt bolts its about 1.5".  But the hole in the roof they thread into is not that long.  So in reality,  probably half of the threads on the bolt do nothing.

  10. 6 minutes ago, Mach1 Driver said:

    but why is the back seat bigger and the trunk? The coupe isn't longer is it?

    From the roof to the tail light panel, on a fastback its a big sheet of glass and then a tiny little trunk lid.

    From the roof to the tail light panel on a coupe, the back glass drops down and then the body shoots back and there's a lot longer space for a larger trunk lid.  The trunk is probably the same size for coupe and fastback, but the trunk opening for the fastback is smaller.

    I imagine the models with fold down back seats, that may take up some of your trunk space.

  11. 4 minutes ago, stangs-R-me said:

    Those of us with our worthless " red-headed-stepchild" Hardtops ... this is probably our only "ONE-UP" / bragging feature we (can) have that no big brother highly sought after Sportsroof car could have !!

    That and a back window you can actually see out of, a back seat that 1 or 2 average size people could sit in, and a larger / more usable trunk ... features that just don't matter in the '69-70 Sportsroof world !!


    The tbird still manages to 1-up even the grande coupe interior.  Bigger back seat with room for full sized adults instead of 5yr old kids, wrap around back seat so you could be comfortable while getting fresh with your girlfriend, I think 3 separate ash trays in the back so your kids could smoke, interior lights in the back, and the trunk is stupid huge compared to even the coupe mustang.

    When I go to the shooting range, I use a jogging stroller to carry my stuff.  None of my old cars can fit the jogging stroller in the trunk except the tbird.  On my fastback, it wont even fit through the tiny door.  On my coupe, it will fit in the door, but its too wide to allow the trunk to close.  In the tbird, the stroller fits with tons of room to spare.


  12. I would like to upgrade the interior in my coupe. It currently has standard.  I like the look of the woodgrain. 

    Assuming I get my hands on the deluxe left and right side dash, door panels, and rear side trim panels, will those just bolt right in place of the standard interior?

    I see the door panels and dash seem to be readily available.  Is there a place to get the rear panels and armrests?

  13. Digging up an old thread...

    Its about time to replace the gauges in my car.  Every time I look at it, it seems something else breaks.  Mine's a non-tach car.  Transmission is a T-5, which I believe should be compatible with their electronic speed sending unit.  My distributor is HEI with a terminal marked "tach".

    Did this thread ever arrive at a handy list of what wires plug in to which terminals on the dakota digital brain box?  And which terminals we don't use?  Spending that much for a dash, I would like to be able to get as much functionality out of it as possible, having it interface with as much of the factor stuff as I can.  For example, can this cluster be wired up such that the factory headlight switch you rotate to brighten and dim the gauges still works?

  14. I would start trying to clamp up other parts of the car.  If you have a fender, see how well it fits with what you have there on the passenger side.  Same with a windshield or the windshield trim and inner fenders.  That will help you figure out which pieces you have are out of spec or hopefully just assembled wrong.

    Clamp or cleco as much of the car together as possible.  If you can get it to the point where even the outside panels are fitting together well, then take a bunch of layers off and start working your way from the inside out replacing the clecos with spot welds.

  15. When I did my 73, I used a 2x4 and a square to do what is known as a "story pole" in woodworking and construction.  I was able to hang my radiator off the 2x4, so I didn't even need to drain my coolant to do the job.

    Take off your fenders.  Then use the existing holes in the inner fenders to screw up and through a 2x4.  This helps brace the car in position when you start removing structural stuff so the car doesn't move around.  Without something to give it structure, the top of the inner fenders can be moved around several inches.

    Then, using a framing square, I marked the exact position of a bunch of holes and features in the radiator support in my 2x4.  This is so when you start putting the new one in, you have a dozen reference points.

    I used my old radiator support as a test piece to get my welder dialed in.  Its real easy to blow holes through sheet metal if its not something you do every day.  And dont worry too much about trying to make youtube pretty welds.  30 seconds with your grinder and a flapper wheel turns ugly welds into pretty ones.  I've seen folks use a harbor freight spot welder to do some of the job.  I dont think the jaws can reach around some of the inside curves to do the whole job.







  16. I ended up laying a blob of weld down to help stick that bracket to my frame.  And my alignment guy wasn't quite able to get my car dialed in.  The tie rods ran out of adjustment and couldn't be made short enough.  I took the car back home, pulled the tie rods in half. And then lopped off an inch out of the threads and put them back together.

    The alignment guy was able to get everything dialed in pretty good.  Everything ended up in the green and he got it better than some of the much newer cars that come in.  Apparently the numbers indicate that my frame's really straight and it hasn't been in any bad wrecks to knock anything out over the years.


  17. I got an unexpected surprise this morning.  I drove the car to the alignment shop.  Then when the dude's in the parking lot turning the steering wheel to get the car lined up to go on the rack, there was a POP. We looked under the car and found half of a bolt broken off.  It was this bracket pictured below in the orange circle.  The blue bolt is the one that broke in two.  The two green bolts just pulled right out like they were not even attached to the frame at all.  This section of the frame is boxed in pretty well, so I dont even see how to get a nut and washer up inside the frame there to tighten those bolts against.  Am I missing something obvious?  Only other thing I can think of is to weld the nuts up into the frame to bolt to, or to just weld the whole bracket to the frame.



  18. Whew, I got it off the jackstands and back on the road today.  I started out by putting in some 3pt seat belts.  Then the UPS man brought me the last piece I needed to button up my new fuel line.  While it was up in the air, I let it run and get up to temperature and played with the steering wheel to check for leaks.  Everything looked good so I dropped it down and took it for a spin around the block and up to the gas station.


  19. Progress continues, slowly.  I got the driver's side back together.  My power steering cylinder mounting stud was junk, so I ordered a new Lares cylinder.

    So far, the running count is upper+lower control arms, ball joints, inner+outer tie rods, center link, slave cylinder, shocks.

    Then up top, replacing the fuel line between the pump and carb with a hard line.  The threaded portion of the fuel pump was wallered out a bit.  The fuel line wouldn't seal up and had a drip while running.  So now i got a new fuel pump on it.

    With the front end all put back together, its almost ready to get back on the road.




  20. 48 minutes ago, rwcstang said:

    looking good so far, the marquis wheels make it look better than those fleamarket looking wheels.

    I would only upgrade to larger 17 or 18" wheels if I was doing a large brake upgrade, like I did. what wheels did you order? 

    I haven't ordered any yet.  They got bumped down the list a bit since i got these temporarily mercury ones.  I'm going to focus on the stuff the car needs to run and drive safely.


    The wheels i would like to get for this are the legendary 17x7 or 17x8 cobra style ones in gray.


  21. The saga continues.  I got the passenger side put together.  New tie rods, upper and lower control arms, shocks, center link, and idler arm.  I got most of the driver's side taken apart.

    While I was up under there, it looks like a need a new power steering cylinder.  And the fuel line from the pump to the carb is leaking.  So new power steering cylinder and fuel line are incoming.

    With the total control bumpsteer eliminator kit, I was able to get the passenger side to 0.100" of bump steer as the suspension travels from ride height to fully compressed.  There wasn't enough adjustment to get any better than that.

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